i was at a transitional state where some twsited pear & dario's boms were overlapping but weak bass has always been my woe. oops, i meant to say input cap in my previous post.
btw, fkp2 10nf bypassed with k72n .1uf teflon is great for c7. deeper bass than mkp2 while maintaining the tonal 'flavor' of fkp. k72n is too sharp by itself in that location.
Electronics 101 Please
CSI Bay City is in full operation.
I’m in the process of dissecting my non-working V1.2 board but I need a little Electronics 101. I am confirming as many values as I can as I remove pieces and for the most part, things match up. The items in the pic are all over the place. I’ve checked at least 10 new caps and my meter reads them correctly. All the axial caps read perfectly including new and used Sonicaps.
With the + and – probes matched to lead polarity, I get squirrelly readings as shown in the photo. So am I doing this correctly, is there an alternative method to test caps - and do these faulty readings indicate they may have been damaged in-circuit? -maybe a surge of some kind.
I get no readings at all from the small yellows C-34 and C-18.
I found no hidden solder bridges under any caps. The copper at LM3886 pin 4 on top side was damaged but that may have happened during removal.
Any ideas?
CSI Bay City is in full operation.
I’m in the process of dissecting my non-working V1.2 board but I need a little Electronics 101. I am confirming as many values as I can as I remove pieces and for the most part, things match up. The items in the pic are all over the place. I’ve checked at least 10 new caps and my meter reads them correctly. All the axial caps read perfectly including new and used Sonicaps.
With the + and – probes matched to lead polarity, I get squirrelly readings as shown in the photo. So am I doing this correctly, is there an alternative method to test caps - and do these faulty readings indicate they may have been damaged in-circuit? -maybe a surge of some kind.
I get no readings at all from the small yellows C-34 and C-18.
I found no hidden solder bridges under any caps. The copper at LM3886 pin 4 on top side was damaged but that may have happened during removal.
Any ideas?
Hi Uriah.That's the fully functioning twin. Everything was identical though on the one I'm dismantling.
Hi Andrew, The numbers in the picture are the readings. Two numbers indicate inability to get a stable reading. The 220s are super flaky.
Capacitance - Out of circuit.
We have more seagulls than pigeons around here 😛
FYI - The pigeons are running from 8" to a foot.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
We have more seagulls than pigeons around here 😛
FYI - The pigeons are running from 8" to a foot.
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I don't get it - why are those 220/50 FMs reading so low? Already dried up, or accidently reverse-biased and destroyed?
Siva - polarity when installed was correct. That's why I thought there may have been a surge or something. I have some new pieces to use but want to know if those bad readings might indicate a problem elsewhere on the build - something I should watch out for as I rebuild.
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i replaced all the resistors except 75k to carbon comp and the result is most pleasant. the sound is rich! not a spot of metallic sheen anywhere, though the hardness of the notes still linger. the amp sounds remarkable indeed. oh also, the old lm318s' legs had rusted so i replaced them with a new pair and it seems to have increased transparency.
Bob,
I think that you might be beyond the range of your multimeter. I checked the op manual for the tek4 and it looks like it is 8% accuracy at 100 Microfarad. I know that I have seldom gotten good readings from multimeter when measuring high capacitance electrolytics.
Jack C.
I think that you might be beyond the range of your multimeter. I checked the op manual for the tek4 and it looks like it is 8% accuracy at 100 Microfarad. I know that I have seldom gotten good readings from multimeter when measuring high capacitance electrolytics.
Jack C.