hi everyone,
I just finished building a pair of 126e mets. So far they sound really good high/mids's wise as far as my untrained ear can tell, but they seem to lack mid/low bass naturally. it seems i have to equalize it heavily to get it out; but at least its there when i do so.
Is it because of the weak T-amp that Im running it off of?
Ill get pics up as soon as i get them off my phone. =)
I just finished building a pair of 126e mets. So far they sound really good high/mids's wise as far as my untrained ear can tell, but they seem to lack mid/low bass naturally. it seems i have to equalize it heavily to get it out; but at least its there when i do so.
Is it because of the weak T-amp that Im running it off of?
Ill get pics up as soon as i get them off my phone. =)
Kaneda said:
Congrats on the build -- have you changed the input caps on the T-Amp? Stock, they're a bit too small, they do eat bass. Could be it.
Another angle on the same thing: Tripath amps usually have very *good* bass if they aren't constrained - it may be a low wattage amp, but it should translate only into distortion, and then only at the limit - not weaker bass.
Pics. I dont own a digital camera at the moment so, a cell phone pic will have to do.
This is the first speaker i've bult btw, so let my know if I made a beginner's mistake lol
This is the first speaker i've bult btw, so let my know if I made a beginner's mistake lol
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
FE127E Mets and Miniwatt
Hi All,
I thought I should chip in with my continuing adventures in hi-fi.
I've been running my FE127E Metronomes with a diyparadise Monica DAC (version1 plus Rudolf Broertjes' SS I/V Gain Stage) coupled to a Charlize (again Version 1) and have been a very happy bunny for the last 18 months.
But I've always wondered about SET amps with full-range drivers and when i saw Ed's comments about how good the Miniwatt amp was with his Hornshoppe horns (and the TNT audio and six-moons reviews) and when I saw the price I put in an order.
Six days later I connected up the Miniwatt to the Mets (no Monica) and. The mid-bass and lower is where I'm really feeling the difference. The coherence of the Mets is what I've always loved but now the lower octaves are filled in in a more natural and fluid way. Danny Thompson's double bass (Richard Thompson Live at Crawley) just flows out of the speakers.
I could go on but you get the idea. It's a major improvement and two ahd a half watts per channel is plenty loud with the mets. Just waiting now for my Monica 3 and then a decent preamp? AudioDigit TubePre opinions anyone?AutoDigit TubePre amp
Cheers all,
Gus
Hi All,
I thought I should chip in with my continuing adventures in hi-fi.
I've been running my FE127E Metronomes with a diyparadise Monica DAC (version1 plus Rudolf Broertjes' SS I/V Gain Stage) coupled to a Charlize (again Version 1) and have been a very happy bunny for the last 18 months.
But I've always wondered about SET amps with full-range drivers and when i saw Ed's comments about how good the Miniwatt amp was with his Hornshoppe horns (and the TNT audio and six-moons reviews) and when I saw the price I put in an order.
Six days later I connected up the Miniwatt to the Mets (no Monica) and. The mid-bass and lower is where I'm really feeling the difference. The coherence of the Mets is what I've always loved but now the lower octaves are filled in in a more natural and fluid way. Danny Thompson's double bass (Richard Thompson Live at Crawley) just flows out of the speakers.
I could go on but you get the idea. It's a major improvement and two ahd a half watts per channel is plenty loud with the mets. Just waiting now for my Monica 3 and then a decent preamp? AudioDigit TubePre opinions anyone?AutoDigit TubePre amp
Cheers all,
Gus
gus900 said:
The power supply for this is 18+18 V... a 6SN7 is much better running at almost 10x that voltage. At 36V it will be in a quite non-linear part of the curve.
dave
Hi Dave
I just had one of those senior pedantic moments, forgive me....I might be wrong but I think there is a multiplier on that board so the 'L7 is probably getting what it wants.....as for the quality well difficult to say without having heard it.....
😉
I just had one of those senior pedantic moments, forgive me....I might be wrong but I think there is a multiplier on that board so the 'L7 is probably getting what it wants.....as for the quality well difficult to say without having heard it.....
😉
planet10 said:
Dave, from the product's manual I quote:
It’s not possible to power this board using a DC voltage, such as the one
produced by a regulated DC power supply, as the board actually uses the 18V AC
voltage to generate higher voltages for the tube section.
With a DC supply the board won’t work.
So as vitalstates says, most probably the board has a multiplier or some kind of SMPS on it... unfortunately there is not much to be seen in the marketing or the manual's images.
Gastón
Adding FT96H to my FE207 mets
Dear Fellow DIYers,
I have been living with my 207 Mets for about a year now and it's time to upgrade. I am doing the Planet10 Phase plug surgery this weekend, but more importantly I will hook up FT96H tweeters (I was going to go for the FT17 tweets but due to an error on Madisound's part [and their generous agreement to rectify it] I now have FT96H to play with...).
I have seen two suggested locations: on the front baffle near the main drivers and on the backside at about driver height. I will try to experiment with both positions (not drilling the holes but using a little jig to first mount it on the side of the driver either forward or backward facing). Are there other configurations people recommend?
Then I'll have to figure out how to cross it over. I have seen 1uF and 1.5uF suggestions. The Fostex brochures also show a configuration involving a pot. I don't really want to go through the expense of the pot, but maybe I should still consider some resistance in some particular configuration (and value). Do folks have suggestions of things to play with to see what might work best in my room and for my taste?
Peter
Dear Fellow DIYers,
I have been living with my 207 Mets for about a year now and it's time to upgrade. I am doing the Planet10 Phase plug surgery this weekend, but more importantly I will hook up FT96H tweeters (I was going to go for the FT17 tweets but due to an error on Madisound's part [and their generous agreement to rectify it] I now have FT96H to play with...).
I have seen two suggested locations: on the front baffle near the main drivers and on the backside at about driver height. I will try to experiment with both positions (not drilling the holes but using a little jig to first mount it on the side of the driver either forward or backward facing). Are there other configurations people recommend?
Then I'll have to figure out how to cross it over. I have seen 1uF and 1.5uF suggestions. The Fostex brochures also show a configuration involving a pot. I don't really want to go through the expense of the pot, but maybe I should still consider some resistance in some particular configuration (and value). Do folks have suggestions of things to play with to see what might work best in my room and for my taste?
Peter
Attachments
hi guys,
i'm going to start my next project - the metronome with the fe127e.
could anyone tell me the dimensions of the "holey driver brace"?
thanks!
i'm going to start my next project - the metronome with the fe127e.
could anyone tell me the dimensions of the "holey driver brace"?
thanks!
The way I made the brace was to just cut a third side piece. Shorten it a bit and cut the holes in it. I got one side made just right, then used the flush trim router bit to turn rough cut versions into perfect matches.
And then I used a round-over bit on the front edges to reduce diffraction effects.
When making Metronomes, a router is you best friend.
Cheers, Jim
And then I used a round-over bit on the front edges to reduce diffraction effects.
When making Metronomes, a router is you best friend.
Cheers, Jim
You want to make the holey brace 30-40% holes, arranged to keep the structure solid and such that there is a solid path from driver magnet to back of cabinet.
dave
An update to my F120a Met build:
As mentioned in another thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...k-eminence-alpha-15a-open-baffle-speaker.html
MJK brought over his tube amp to try on a couple of my speaker builds. The shock of the day was what tubes did for the Fostex F120a driver. The mediocre sound I had been getting from the F120a (dull in the upper mids/highs, poor reproduction of cymbals and similar percussion) with my SS amps was dramatically changed.
Using tubes, the F120a sounds like a whole new driver--absolutely fabulous sound! Cymbals, brushes, piano, everything suddenly springs to life. Sound stage and imaging are excellent too.
My plans to dump these drivers have changed--instead, I have bought a MiniWatt tube amp. Despite its tiny size (fits in the palm of your hand) and small price ($230), the MiniWatt is no toy. I'm sure its not the equal of high priced glass, but I have to say that MiniWatt delivers the goods! My F120a Mets are now signing sweetly connected to this minuscule marvel.
On the two-way (passive XO) open baffles the MiniWatt is OK, but I'll stick with my SS amps. On other SFRD speakers, the MiniWatt may offer some improvement over SS, but it's not the change (yea, true revelation) that I find with the F120a.
Cheers, Jim
As mentioned in another thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...k-eminence-alpha-15a-open-baffle-speaker.html
MJK brought over his tube amp to try on a couple of my speaker builds. The shock of the day was what tubes did for the Fostex F120a driver. The mediocre sound I had been getting from the F120a (dull in the upper mids/highs, poor reproduction of cymbals and similar percussion) with my SS amps was dramatically changed.
Using tubes, the F120a sounds like a whole new driver--absolutely fabulous sound! Cymbals, brushes, piano, everything suddenly springs to life. Sound stage and imaging are excellent too.
My plans to dump these drivers have changed--instead, I have bought a MiniWatt tube amp. Despite its tiny size (fits in the palm of your hand) and small price ($230), the MiniWatt is no toy. I'm sure its not the equal of high priced glass, but I have to say that MiniWatt delivers the goods! My F120a Mets are now signing sweetly connected to this minuscule marvel.
On the two-way (passive XO) open baffles the MiniWatt is OK, but I'll stick with my SS amps. On other SFRD speakers, the MiniWatt may offer some improvement over SS, but it's not the change (yea, true revelation) that I find with the F120a.
Cheers, Jim
Hi Jim
just noticed this post and it rang a bell with me. I don't know if this is relevant but........I've found with one of my recent FE167 cabinets that with SS(Pass F4) the sound was very much as you describe(mediocre). When I changed to SE valves the transformation was huge. As I normally love my F4 I was loathe to blame it, so I looked a bit further. The cabinet in question has a high inherent DF so I thought that might have something to do with it. I tried the Pass F2 which has minimal DF and lo and behold we were back to a sublime sound, very similar to the SE valves.......
just athought....
just noticed this post and it rang a bell with me. I don't know if this is relevant but........I've found with one of my recent FE167 cabinets that with SS(Pass F4) the sound was very much as you describe(mediocre). When I changed to SE valves the transformation was huge. As I normally love my F4 I was loathe to blame it, so I looked a bit further. The cabinet in question has a high inherent DF so I thought that might have something to do with it. I tried the Pass F2 which has minimal DF and lo and behold we were back to a sublime sound, very similar to the SE valves.......
just athought....
Another positive MiniWatt review 🙂
I've heard rumourings of more products in the pipeline.
dave
Something i have been hammering away at for a long time. We have a prototype variable transconductance amp here (with a knob on the front that lets you dial in the damping factor from huge to none) and every loudspeaker likes a slightly different setting.
dave