I have quite a few tracks involving Boris Blank that I like, I'll look this one up as soon as the subs are up and running.
Wooden beams, wood floor, the feet are the same/similar as the ones on the array:
It's a ball in a cup with a damping layer build in. Able to hold about 175 Kg each. Worked better for me than spikes.
Sadly that won't be something that I'm able to do, I had considered building something with two drivers per enclosure for that reason but it isn't in my cards if i want to keep the other half happy.
So I'll probably experiment at some point with added weight. That I can hide somewhat. @CraigSu: thanks for the tip!
The inside will still get some mass loaded vinyl on all walls before I'm done, but at 4mm thickness the added weight will not be that much. (1 m2 weighs about 8 Kg)
It is a good material (a sound blocker) to reduce SPL leakage trough the sides compared to using bare birch ply (19 mm) by itself.
I see they changed thickness at some point, it used to be 4mm and 8 mm in thickness. I had enough 4 mm thickness leftovers from other projects (among which the arrays).
I never did find a good source (locally) for getting Sorbothane. I've used Neoprene (not as good) and Butylrope (quite pleased with that) so far.
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As far as I'm aware, spikes are only any good when you want a good coupling to a large immobile mass?
Butyl rope, mmm, I'm looking for something to seal (not that it's really necessary) between IB sub line array and timber frame. The idea is for it to be isolated from the drywall, only making contact with the floor, via some kind of damping, probably sorbothane.
Butyl rope, mmm, I'm looking for something to seal (not that it's really necessary) between IB sub line array and timber frame. The idea is for it to be isolated from the drywall, only making contact with the floor, via some kind of damping, probably sorbothane.
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Just finished the first layer of boat paint (2K). Second layer on monday.
Sorry, no pictures yet... way too shiny with the wet layer of paint.
Ordered some extra MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) in 5 mm thickness to make into gaskets for front and back panel.
That will make all seams on the enclosure be equal in size. The remaining Vinyl will be used inside the enclosure on all walls.
Also ordered some small bits and pieces to finish this build. I will take my time though.
Do it once, do it right.
Sorry, no pictures yet... way too shiny with the wet layer of paint.
Ordered some extra MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) in 5 mm thickness to make into gaskets for front and back panel.
That will make all seams on the enclosure be equal in size. The remaining Vinyl will be used inside the enclosure on all walls.
Also ordered some small bits and pieces to finish this build. I will take my time though.
Do it once, do it right.
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I looked up my recipe again for a nice and even satin finish:
On my way to the store right now to get some new abrasive pads...
I never needed another product to keep the coat looking good. Just a wipe down with a wet micro fiber towel.
I basically followed that recipe with the exception that I only used the abrasive pads.
- First wet sanded the enclosures with the pads
- Rub it out like in the article with the pads and paste wax
- Remove excess wax with paper towels
- Remove even more wax with water and a light rub with the pads
- Wipe dry with a micro fibre towel
Seems to work well. Now looking into products I can use for a wipe down at a later stage. I found some clues for furniture wax products in spray cans that seem to work well on a satin finish. Haven't found anything local yet though. Maybe a satin sheen cockpit spray from 3M would work?
On my way to the store right now to get some new abrasive pads...
I never needed another product to keep the coat looking good. Just a wipe down with a wet micro fiber towel.
Looks great! Even from the back. How many of us would show off the never to be seen backs of our subwoofer cabs?
Now I can appreciate the threaded rods extending ostensibly from driver mounting bolts in front to removable panel in back; doing double duty of stiffening front and providing a robust and aesthetic way of attaching rear panel. I imagine you could even get some damping with the right kind of washers under the nuts.
Now I can appreciate the threaded rods extending ostensibly from driver mounting bolts in front to removable panel in back; doing double duty of stiffening front and providing a robust and aesthetic way of attaching rear panel. I imagine you could even get some damping with the right kind of washers under the nuts.
Lol, I wanted to show off how nice the heat sinks looked after a repaint.
Front and back are connected with the rods and basically are sealed with 5 mm thickness vinyl "gaskets" so they are sealed off from the main enclosure body.
(that's what makes up the gap on the front and back panels, The gap in the sides is just for show, modeled after that famous Magico subwoofer)
I primarily did that to be able to hide all mounting hardware of the subwoofer.
The inner walls of the enclosure will get a layer of that same vinyl (mass loaded) which makes each wall about an inch in thickness (but build with dissimilar materials).
Front and back are connected with the rods and basically are sealed with 5 mm thickness vinyl "gaskets" so they are sealed off from the main enclosure body.
(that's what makes up the gap on the front and back panels, The gap in the sides is just for show, modeled after that famous Magico subwoofer)
I primarily did that to be able to hide all mounting hardware of the subwoofer.
The inner walls of the enclosure will get a layer of that same vinyl (mass loaded) which makes each wall about an inch in thickness (but build with dissimilar materials).
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Your sub doesn’t look at all like a diy product, the fact that it’s possible to make such things yourself is a great inspiration.
I decided I want to go now with an insane no compromise subwoofer that reach for the impossible.... thinking about a hexagon with 6 drivers in each cabinet, 9” or 10”
Hope for startup right after new year .... I think your work has been one of my great inspirations to even consider that insane project I am now looking towards. Flat in-room response beyound 10Hz should be walk in the park ...
The only commercial sub I know about within the same ballpark is Paradigm Sub 2, I guess ..
I decided I want to go now with an insane no compromise subwoofer that reach for the impossible.... thinking about a hexagon with 6 drivers in each cabinet, 9” or 10”
Hope for startup right after new year .... I think your work has been one of my great inspirations to even consider that insane project I am now looking towards. Flat in-room response beyound 10Hz should be walk in the park ...
The only commercial sub I know about within the same ballpark is Paradigm Sub 2, I guess ..
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Be sure to have your medical insurance when you expose yourself to sub 10 Hz bass for longer times...
Thank you very much for that great compliment. That has been the goal (for both the arrays and subs) to pull off. It takes a bit of planning, that sure shows as I'm not the fastest builder (lol). What I wanted was to create something serviceable (as I expect it to last a long long time) and let form follow function.
Have the least compromises I can think off and try and give it at least some stylistic features.
I hope you pull off that subwoofer idea of yours. If anything, I hope I did show what one can build with simple hand tools and a lot of free time.
Have the least compromises I can think off and try and give it at least some stylistic features.
I hope you pull off that subwoofer idea of yours. If anything, I hope I did show what one can build with simple hand tools and a lot of free time
.Be sure to have your medical insurance when you expose yourself to sub 10 Hz bass for longer times...
Yah, I heard some stories .... and I live in a flat, so I do actually have neighbors too
Thank you very much for that great compliment. That has been the goal (for both the arrays and subs) to pull off. It takes a bit of planning, that sure shows as I'm not the fastest builder (lol). What I wanted was to create something serviceable (as I expect it to last a long long time) and let form follow function.
Have the least compromises I can think off and try and give it at least some stylistic features.
I hope you pull off that subwoofer idea of yours. If anything, I hope I did show what one can build with simple hand tools and a lot of free time
Thx a lot, take care
There is strength in numbers, if you look in the signature line of member Robbintip who posted just a few pages ago: