Glad you got it fixed.. In the dozens of SP10mk2's I've repaired/serviced I have not yet come across a bad cap on the logic PCB.
I was asked to repair a unit and when I disassembled the FG to repair a broken wire and one of the magnets fell to pieces. So I had new magnets made, rewound the FG coils and we have an operational SP10mk2.
Hi guys, does anyone know where I can buy the thrust pad for the sp10II for less than the only seller on ebay? It has doubled in price from $30 to over $80 including shipping in the last while and that is a real theft for me as I need to buy multiple units.
I don't know of anyone else selling SP10 thrust pads. I used these before the price went up. I'm making my own now as needed. I can understand the price increase as Torlon is not cheap (especially in Australia) and the effort/skill needed to make such a small part. I know I threw a few away before I got it right.
certainly it could be complicated to make if it's the first time but then learned the method having the advantage of a cnc machine and torlon bars you can make industrial quantities without making mistakes; no I'm not willing to spend $80 each for a little piece of material syntetic.
You would have to go to a local engineering company, then quickly realise $80 isn't that expensive!
Have seen several. They typically show sings of insufficient lubrication throughout the unit's life.
On the subject of the Technics EPA-B500: mine has been dropping the arm too quickly, and after days of scouring online resources, I've only come across a post by @JP with a photo of the bottom case of the tonearm removed and the lifter parts pointed out. It is still unclear to me how one restores lifter performance. Unlike other Technics arms, it doesn't appear there is a way to refill damper fluid by removing the lifter arm as shown in the technical note.
You can open the damper cylinder carefully (if the nylon isn't too brittle) and add fluid. The brass inset is press-fit in to a groove in the nylon (or the other way around). Though, if the fluid has escaped it's like due to a crack in the nylon.
They used the middle anchor for the tension spring by default, so you could try the next one down for less tension.
Or, probably the easiest, grease the plunger bushing with something of a viscosity that gives you the action you want.
They used the middle anchor for the tension spring by default, so you could try the next one down for less tension.
Or, probably the easiest, grease the plunger bushing with something of a viscosity that gives you the action you want.
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Hopefully someone here can help.
Went through calibration procedure on my SP-10k2a. Got everything in spec except the RS current setting which is supposed to be 0 V but I can't get it below 0.162 V - it jumps up if I keep turning the pot. It appears to be running ok, no vibrations and strobe looks good at all speeds. Not sure if this is any cause for concern?
I did find a typo in the service manual. It said to measure this between Test CN2 terminals 2 and 4 but you actually have to measure it between 3 and 4 - I discovered this when checking continuity between Test CN2 pins and IC201 terminals 6 and 8.
Thanks
Kevin Looker
Went through calibration procedure on my SP-10k2a. Got everything in spec except the RS current setting which is supposed to be 0 V but I can't get it below 0.162 V - it jumps up if I keep turning the pot. It appears to be running ok, no vibrations and strobe looks good at all speeds. Not sure if this is any cause for concern?
I did find a typo in the service manual. It said to measure this between Test CN2 terminals 2 and 4 but you actually have to measure it between 3 and 4 - I discovered this when checking continuity between Test CN2 pins and IC201 terminals 6 and 8.
Thanks
Kevin Looker
