The Incredible Technics SP-10 Thread

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#2,921
Thank you for the kind explanation. I understand better, and the mcu controller is a good news.

I asked because for Victor brand/Micro Seiki I found out several different boards and different motors could work out together, albeit they were more or less some TT-71 motors (various outside number but quite same internal).
 
#2,922
12 poles is most common so there is some compatibility for some decks but FG generation frequency and level could be way different for different motors for a start, or some could use TT rim sensors even, then there is the impedance of the stator coils etc and the effect of that on the driver bridges. Are they designed to give say 40V @ 100mA or 10V @ 400mA per phase for a specific motor? It's not a much a "diy bodge will work" thing really....
 
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#2,923
Thank you as well, I see I have yet much to learn. It's just I felt that it is sad to see all this technology and craftsmanship skills go to waste. That's why I stick with belt drives for now despite my admiration for this model and the TT-101.

My apologies for my immature previous question.
 
#2,925
I'm guessing you're talking about the the bolt that adjusts the hinge spring tension. These hinges were bent and needed straightening before being drilled and tapped for larger bolts. IIRC these are M6 bolts.

IMG_20240908_200538.jpg
 
#2,933
jez said:
Thanks. As hinted in an earlier post I wasn't sure if it took an external drive waveform or self commutated as you describe. So it should be possible to spin up the motor at some random speed even with malfunctioning logic or control boards by giving it a suitable current limited input voltage from a bench PSU? FWIW all the waveforms on the control board look about right as far as one can tell from spinning it by hand so probably not the drive board but if I can rule it out by say feeding it 10V DC via a 10K resistor and see it spin up to say 110RPM then that would be great.

I guess this is one of those repairs where you end up spending 30 hours on it and can only charge for a fraction of that but it is years since anything beat me🙄
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Sorry, missed this while on the road. Really easy - pull the logic and control boards out, and with your bench PSU referenced to the SP-10 backplane 0V line, give it around 24.5VDC and it'll start to spin. The lower the voltage the more drive current, but no need to go more than 1V lower, and watch the motor speed - you're playing with mV to reach equilibrium. You may need to push start it, or give it a negative "goose".
 
#2,934
JP said:
Sorry, missed this while on the road. Really easy - pull the logic and control boards out, and with your bench PSU referenced to the SP-10 backplane 0V line, give it around 24.5VDC and it'll start to spin. The lower the voltage the more drive current, but no need to go more than 1V lower, and watch the motor speed - you're playing with mV to reach equilibrium. You may need to push start it, or give it a negative "goose".
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Thanks. For now it's decided to run again.... nothing like the "fun" of an intermittent fault eh!?
 
#2,935
jez said:
I was intrigued by the use this SP10 is being put to by the customer. He uses it as a cutting lathe to cut records one at a time with a cutting head on a linear tracking "arm"! I didn't know this was "a thing" even!
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Ah,i know the guy you talk of, phil, hes just bought my mint condition sp10 mk2 as a stop gap while you repair his one. Small world isn't it.
 
#2,940
I ended up going for a full re-cap and underneath a 100uf 16V electrolytic on the logic board there was a leak which, whilst not visible from above while capacitor in place, had corroded through the PCB track severing it on both sides of the capacitors lead out wire.

Thanks for the help guys 🙂
 
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