Everyone that tries one of these tables loves it.
What is it about this table that makes it so good?
I don't know, don't have one and have never even listened to one. That said, I do have a couple of ideas.
First, most everyone puts it in a massive heavy plinth. This has to help, but what else?
Second, the speed control. I recently added a new motor and digital speed control to a table I have listened to for years, and the improvement is not small, in ways I did not expect.
I'm sure it has a nice bearing as well, which no doubt helps.
Thoughts?
Russellc
What is it about this table that makes it so good?
I don't know, don't have one and have never even listened to one. That said, I do have a couple of ideas.
First, most everyone puts it in a massive heavy plinth. This has to help, but what else?
Second, the speed control. I recently added a new motor and digital speed control to a table I have listened to for years, and the improvement is not small, in ways I did not expect.
I'm sure it has a nice bearing as well, which no doubt helps.
Thoughts?
Russellc
@Russellc
The SP10mk2 is a fabulous table and capable of taking it to the very best.
A lot of people install SP10's in massive plinths, but they do not need to be. The mk2 is a very quiet running TT and the most important thing in a plinth is that it attenuates the energy paths between the TT and tonearm mount.
I made an SP10 in a small Permalli 360x360x60mm plinth for a friend and this TT sounds very close to my FrankenSP10 which knocked the socks off a Goldmund Reference and TechDas AF3 Premium. So it's about the implementation rather than the mass. Permalli or Panzerholtz is what I use for plinths, I know Pz can be difficult/expensive to source in the USA so an alternative is layered 3/4" Particleboard and add1 layer of 3/4 marine plywood to increase rigidity. I have used PB for a solid layered plinth and it works extremely well, is cheap and easily sourced.
The Technics TT's including the SL1200 and SP series have excellent dynamic speed stability. If you consider the cartridge is only responsible for half the signal and the TT is responsible for the other half. So the cart provides the level (Y axis) and the TT provides the timebase (X axis). The other thing to consider is the platter the mk2 platter is better than most in its ability to control energy and Technics improved the platter further with the mk3 and 10R.
The bearing is the weakest part of the mk2 being only 9/32 (7.1mm) in diameter Technics again improved this in the mk3. But having said that the bearing is still very quiet and pretty robust. Lastly the mk2 (NOT the mk2A) is all analog no proprietary chips that are unavailable.
The SP10mk2 is a fabulous table and capable of taking it to the very best.
A lot of people install SP10's in massive plinths, but they do not need to be. The mk2 is a very quiet running TT and the most important thing in a plinth is that it attenuates the energy paths between the TT and tonearm mount.
I made an SP10 in a small Permalli 360x360x60mm plinth for a friend and this TT sounds very close to my FrankenSP10 which knocked the socks off a Goldmund Reference and TechDas AF3 Premium. So it's about the implementation rather than the mass. Permalli or Panzerholtz is what I use for plinths, I know Pz can be difficult/expensive to source in the USA so an alternative is layered 3/4" Particleboard and add1 layer of 3/4 marine plywood to increase rigidity. I have used PB for a solid layered plinth and it works extremely well, is cheap and easily sourced.
The Technics TT's including the SL1200 and SP series have excellent dynamic speed stability. If you consider the cartridge is only responsible for half the signal and the TT is responsible for the other half. So the cart provides the level (Y axis) and the TT provides the timebase (X axis). The other thing to consider is the platter the mk2 platter is better than most in its ability to control energy and Technics improved the platter further with the mk3 and 10R.
The bearing is the weakest part of the mk2 being only 9/32 (7.1mm) in diameter Technics again improved this in the mk3. But having said that the bearing is still very quiet and pretty robust. Lastly the mk2 (NOT the mk2A) is all analog no proprietary chips that are unavailable.
I'm based in NZ and have been running an SP10 with a 110v power supply and step down transformer but have managed to source another duel voltage power supply. The lever on the switch for the duel voltage supply is broken, I note it is a 6 pole switch I assume for the different taps on the transformer. Can I swap out the 3 pole switch from the 110v supply and wire it into the 230v taps on the duel supply?
"Lever" on the switch would indicate you're talking about the on/off switch, and not the voltage selector switch?
My almost 90 day review:
Still loving this turntable. I spin vinyl about 2-3 times a week, but usually 3-5 LPs at a go, so it's getting used plenty. The tonearm is also an excellent performer, justifying all praise and recommendations to me by @6L6 and later comments from several others, though I have yet to find an a-250 tonearm for the right money.
In the meantime, also on recommendation by Jim, I picked up a Graham 2.0 in very nice condition, and have been making an armboard using a sandwich of aluminum plate and birch ply. My plinth has aluminum rails that the existing wood armboard is attached to with screws, so coupling is good with the wood, but I expect it will have a different characteristic with the new armboard. Guess I'll be playing the "which tonearm do I like better" game.
Still loving this turntable. I spin vinyl about 2-3 times a week, but usually 3-5 LPs at a go, so it's getting used plenty. The tonearm is also an excellent performer, justifying all praise and recommendations to me by @6L6 and later comments from several others, though I have yet to find an a-250 tonearm for the right money.
In the meantime, also on recommendation by Jim, I picked up a Graham 2.0 in very nice condition, and have been making an armboard using a sandwich of aluminum plate and birch ply. My plinth has aluminum rails that the existing wood armboard is attached to with screws, so coupling is good with the wood, but I expect it will have a different characteristic with the new armboard. Guess I'll be playing the "which tonearm do I like better" game.
Oh, my. Yes, lots of tonearms. I've not heard of the Immedia, and should probably resist the temptation to learn more, since it really isn't a simple matter to change tonearms! From what I've seen, the B-44 is a wonderful tonearm.
My original plan was to build a plinth that would fit 2 arms, but I really wanted this project to be finished so I could use the 'table sooner than later.
I am giving thought to how I can modify the mounting system for my armboards so they are quicker to change out. I might make some knurled thumbscrews. The Graham will likely receive the Benz Ruby I bought a few months ago that sounded great on my Fidelity Research arm on the BL-91.
My original plan was to build a plinth that would fit 2 arms, but I really wanted this project to be finished so I could use the 'table sooner than later.
I am giving thought to how I can modify the mounting system for my armboards so they are quicker to change out. I might make some knurled thumbscrews. The Graham will likely receive the Benz Ruby I bought a few months ago that sounded great on my Fidelity Research arm on the BL-91.
Just to (possibly) spoil your day I have used both of these arms on a SP10 Mk2. They are fine with medium compliance MCs but unable to sound good with low
compliance high energy cartridges such as the AudioNote Io, most SPU and a few others of that ilk. [With these MCs an old Zeta and a last issue 'real' Wheaton were excellent and excellent++]
My last caution on this matter of arm suitability.
@gkt AUDIO:
I should have mentioned The FR64S as also being excellent! The Alloy version (FX ?) I never liked as I found the sound quite 'brittle'.
compliance high energy cartridges such as the AudioNote Io, most SPU and a few others of that ilk. [With these MCs an old Zeta and a last issue 'real' Wheaton were excellent and excellent++]
My last caution on this matter of arm suitability.
@gkt AUDIO:
I should have mentioned The FR64S as also being excellent! The Alloy version (FX ?) I never liked as I found the sound quite 'brittle'.
I agree with brianco's assessment. I also have a Zeta arm, Fr64s and Wheaton IV (still original producer). The B-44 works beautifully with low compliance carts, but the 2.0 not as much. If you can find one, an AT1010 works nicely with low compliance. Kuzma Stogi R is also excellent (and I assume the Kuzma 4- point is great but have never been able to afford one...)
Part of the fun (at least for me) is the process of trying different combinations.
Part of the fun (at least for me) is the process of trying different combinations.
Thanks for your comments, @brianco and @hirscwi. I have the FR64S and it looks like a very finely finished vintage arm, but nothing flashy. However, it performs excellently in every respect I can observe.
On my EPA-b500/a501 currently in use, the lower-compliance carts I have do not sound best, echoing what you are saying. I'm using a medium-compliance, modified EAT/Ortofon that sounds excellent, better than the Benz Ruby on the same arm.
I will check out the other arms - always good to have options.
On my EPA-b500/a501 currently in use, the lower-compliance carts I have do not sound best, echoing what you are saying. I'm using a medium-compliance, modified EAT/Ortofon that sounds excellent, better than the Benz Ruby on the same arm.
I will check out the other arms - always good to have options.
IF you do overhaul your FR64s take out the downforce spring and throw it away, buy a decent digital scale and simply adjust the counter wt. to establish the correct downforce.
Also use the best bearings you can find...hybrid are good for horizontals.
When all is reassembled place the intended cartridge in the shell and adjust the vertical bearing counterweight (hang the arm vertically down and adjust the wt until the arm/cartridge stays pointing straight down. Reinstall the arm and continue normal set-up procedure.
Also use the best bearings you can find...hybrid are good for horizontals.
When all is reassembled place the intended cartridge in the shell and adjust the vertical bearing counterweight (hang the arm vertically down and adjust the wt until the arm/cartridge stays pointing straight down. Reinstall the arm and continue normal set-up procedure.
There is a pretty good description of the process on another thread...try and search the site.....(I am too old to even attempt to refind it: 82 + slight cataract!)
I suggest that if anyone wants to continue on the subject of arms that they find a dedicated thread or start one.
Over and out.
I suggest that if anyone wants to continue on the subject of arms that they find a dedicated thread or start one.
Over and out.
It took me a while but I finally did it. Acquired a really nice MK3. Pictures attached. Looking forward to the listening part.
You can see the disassembled controller for recap in the background. A bit of a challenge the first time through with a new system.
My first two questions/request for advice are:
1. I would like to get a 117v (US) xformer for the existing 100v. Any suggestions?
2. The caps are a bit of a challenge. I pulled all the electrolytics and there are some discrepancies. One type is the actual is not the same spec as in the service manual. As in bipolar vs polar. The other is the cap size for actual and book are different. Any guidelines would be appreciated.
I had a few green legs but not too bad and no board damage.
The key here for me is to do no harm.
Finally, I asked to be put on the JP FA6042 chip list as I thinking is only a matter before the original fails.
Don
You can see the disassembled controller for recap in the background. A bit of a challenge the first time through with a new system.
My first two questions/request for advice are:
1. I would like to get a 117v (US) xformer for the existing 100v. Any suggestions?
2. The caps are a bit of a challenge. I pulled all the electrolytics and there are some discrepancies. One type is the actual is not the same spec as in the service manual. As in bipolar vs polar. The other is the cap size for actual and book are different. Any guidelines would be appreciated.
I had a few green legs but not too bad and no board damage.
The key here for me is to do no harm.
Finally, I asked to be put on the JP FA6042 chip list as I thinking is only a matter before the original fails.
Don