Hey - there you go!
The waveform on channel 2 doesn't shift in relation to channel 1 when you turn the pot?
The waveform on channel 2 doesn't shift in relation to channel 1 when you turn the pot?
The lines on channel 2 move up and down when the pot is turned but the period tab on the scope doesn't move (bottom right). However I could well be doing this wrong?
You're adjusting the phase of one waveform to the other. You need to use the cursors function of your scope to measure this per the picture in the service manual.
33 should be 6.3ms +/- 0.2ms, and you're at 11.8ms. There is no adjustment for 45 - you just need to confirm it's 4.7ms +/- 1.3ms after 33 has been set. 78 should be 2.7ms +/- 0.1ms - looks like you're good on that one.
So, for 33 move cursor B such that AX-BX = 6.300ms, or close as you can get it. Then, adjust VR101 until the pulse on channel 2 lines up with cursor B. Then confirm 45 is right.
So, for 33 move cursor B such that AX-BX = 6.300ms, or close as you can get it. Then, adjust VR101 until the pulse on channel 2 lines up with cursor B. Then confirm 45 is right.
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Following your advice I've recapped the PSU and about set the voltages. One question, do I need to set voltages with the table connected and powered or can I set with it disconnected ie PSU powered only? I'm reluctant to cause any damage.
Ta
Ta
You can set them without the turntable connected.
However for those confused at this thread (it is way too long and the SP-10 needs its own sub-sub-forum ?) I didn't and don't recommend changing capacitors to sure a fault.
However for those confused at this thread (it is way too long and the SP-10 needs its own sub-sub-forum ?) I didn't and don't recommend changing capacitors to sure a fault.
Thanks Dave. It was more opportunity knocks rather than following the advice given here. The lower board required some extensive work as PCB tracks were burnt and lifted, whilst resolving that I went through the supply to give a clean bill of health. From the get go I'm getting 5.04V and 32.44V respectively so I'll just tweak these a touch and take it from there.
Cheers
Cheers
Just finished setting up my Garrott P77 SAS on the SP10/2/SME3 arm as I haven't got the FR64fx arm board made up yet for the SP10. (Couldn't wait any longer to try it!)
Bear in mind I've had this cartridge for years now,in the FR,on the 401,although the SAS stylus is only a year old (and sounds better than the original).
Very pleased with the sound.Bass is more defined and tighter and I'm hearing more detail on familiar records.Very faint sounds now easier to hear.
So am hoping once the FR is on the SP10 I'll be even more delighted!
Must say that I dropped a small item on the platter of the 401,with the mat on it and the rubber rings around the rim,and was surprised to hear it ring like a bell! Whereas the rubber mat on the SP10 just deadens the platter completely.
Some advice please.
Do you leave the lid on and down,or up, when playing an LP or take it off completely?
It's just that I've fixed the hinges so they work now.Until now I've been taking it off as it wouldn't stay up.
Feedback please!
Bear in mind I've had this cartridge for years now,in the FR,on the 401,although the SAS stylus is only a year old (and sounds better than the original).
Very pleased with the sound.Bass is more defined and tighter and I'm hearing more detail on familiar records.Very faint sounds now easier to hear.
So am hoping once the FR is on the SP10 I'll be even more delighted!
Must say that I dropped a small item on the platter of the 401,with the mat on it and the rubber rings around the rim,and was surprised to hear it ring like a bell! Whereas the rubber mat on the SP10 just deadens the platter completely.
Some advice please.
Do you leave the lid on and down,or up, when playing an LP or take it off completely?
It's just that I've fixed the hinges so they work now.Until now I've been taking it off as it wouldn't stay up.
Feedback please!
I have the dust cover down while playing a record. (On my SL-1200, which is what's currently hooked up.)
I haven't found a ton of difference in sound between the lid on/off/down/up. I have, however, found that the entire turntable becomes much dustier with it removed.
I haven't found a ton of difference in sound between the lid on/off/down/up. I have, however, found that the entire turntable becomes much dustier with it removed.
A question for all you SP10 MkX experts. It seems that any audiophile rehab/rebuild of the SP10s involves the removal of the brake mechanism. Why is that? I can't imagine that it does any harm while inactive as the platter spins. Just curious.
You are right. Removing the brake will have no effect on the sound. People who think it would make a difference are deluding themselves - it 's called Expectation Bias.