Can't wait to watch this build come together 
I was thinking back about your post on servicing the bearing. You'd said you screwed the cap on further than it was before. I'm wondering if you should back it off to where it was, as this sets the height of the rotor. If it wasn't screwed on all the way originally, is there a reason?
Wish I'd marked the location of mine before removing it
I was thinking back about your post on servicing the bearing. You'd said you screwed the cap on further than it was before. I'm wondering if you should back it off to where it was, as this sets the height of the rotor. If it wasn't screwed on all the way originally, is there a reason?
Wish I'd marked the location of mine before removing it
Thanks for your interest in what I'm doing.Can't wait to watch this build come together
I was thinking back about your post on servicing the bearing. You'd said you screwed the cap on further than it was before. I'm wondering if you should back it off to where it was, as this sets the height of the rotor. If it wasn't screwed on all the way originally, is there a reason?
Wish I'd marked the location of mine before removing it
I haven't found any comments by others that have serviced their bearings concerning how far or tight they put on the cap. It's a habit for me to take pictures and mark things before I take them apart. The threads are very fine and if I remember correctly, I only tightened it about 1/8 of a turn farther. I had heated up the cap and with a rag, hand tightened the cap till I couldn't turn it any father. That's just where it landed.
Open to ideas if I should put back to original spot.
Thanks all for your comments on my stand.
I spent some time designing and sketching it up, but one of my good friends executed on the design and welded it up. He does this kind of work for a living and is really good at it, especially stainless.
Today I put it in the paint booth, wiped it down good with Nason Wax and Grease Remover, then shot one coat of self etching primer
Waited about a half hour, then shot two coats of 2k high build primer, 10 mins flash time between.
Now a couple skim coats of filler and more primer this week to try and paint Saturday.
I spent some time designing and sketching it up, but one of my good friends executed on the design and welded it up. He does this kind of work for a living and is really good at it, especially stainless.
Today I put it in the paint booth, wiped it down good with Nason Wax and Grease Remover, then shot one coat of self etching primer
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Waited about a half hour, then shot two coats of 2k high build primer, 10 mins flash time between.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now a couple skim coats of filler and more primer this week to try and paint Saturday.
Since this is 6L6's SP10 build thread, I guess I should also post a little about my progress on the table.
I have finished mounting the power supply to its section of the new chassis
I'm happy with how this is coming together with the chassis. All the power supply components are mounted to its own bottom panel. I am mounting the IEC recept from the inside and the leads from the power supply to the TT boards have a plug. So the entire unit can be unplugged and removed from the main chassis for easy access.
Then I took the boards out from under the TT and have started mounting to the top panel of the chassis. It will also be able to be unscrewed and unplugged from the chassis for easy access. Had to order some stand offs to finish mounting
Some of you that are faint of heart you might want to stop reading here. My original goal was to keep as much of the original parts as possible to keep some of the spirit of the original design. That's why I am keeping the power switch and indicator light and also the speed selector and start/stop switch. The stop/start switch is about 3 3/4" tall, too tall for my 3 1/4" high chassis. I knew this when I ordered the chassis, but I didn't want to make the whole unit that tall just for the switch. So (close your eyes) I cut up and shortened the switch. Most of the height is the "hinge" for the push plate. So after careful measurements, and exact markings, I drilled a couple of new holes lower for the top fixed point while everything was still lined up. Then with a Dremel cutter blade I cut off a little over 1/2" off the top. To make the "hinge" portion I used a small section of soft rubber to put under the very top between the new screws, and just snugged up the screws. The rubber piece is now the hinge and the two screws keep the alignment.
Before
After
Then installed in the faceplate
Yesterday I took a little break from making stuff to play music to actually listen to music. Makana (acclaimed guitarist, Hawaiian singer, and friend) had his latest album release party at my friends HIFI store yesterday. Pretty cool to listen to through a pair of 600 watt Mac amps, and 10 pack of Rel subs!
I have finished mounting the power supply to its section of the new chassis
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm happy with how this is coming together with the chassis. All the power supply components are mounted to its own bottom panel. I am mounting the IEC recept from the inside and the leads from the power supply to the TT boards have a plug. So the entire unit can be unplugged and removed from the main chassis for easy access.
Then I took the boards out from under the TT and have started mounting to the top panel of the chassis. It will also be able to be unscrewed and unplugged from the chassis for easy access. Had to order some stand offs to finish mounting
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some of you that are faint of heart you might want to stop reading here. My original goal was to keep as much of the original parts as possible to keep some of the spirit of the original design. That's why I am keeping the power switch and indicator light and also the speed selector and start/stop switch. The stop/start switch is about 3 3/4" tall, too tall for my 3 1/4" high chassis. I knew this when I ordered the chassis, but I didn't want to make the whole unit that tall just for the switch. So (close your eyes) I cut up and shortened the switch. Most of the height is the "hinge" for the push plate. So after careful measurements, and exact markings, I drilled a couple of new holes lower for the top fixed point while everything was still lined up. Then with a Dremel cutter blade I cut off a little over 1/2" off the top. To make the "hinge" portion I used a small section of soft rubber to put under the very top between the new screws, and just snugged up the screws. The rubber piece is now the hinge and the two screws keep the alignment.
Before
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then installed in the faceplate
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Yesterday I took a little break from making stuff to play music to actually listen to music. Makana (acclaimed guitarist, Hawaiian singer, and friend) had his latest album release party at my friends HIFI store yesterday. Pretty cool to listen to through a pair of 600 watt Mac amps, and 10 pack of Rel subs!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
"Some of you that are faint of heart you might want to stop reading here."???
Well done!There is nothing i like more than original thinking - and not to be restrained by what the original designers thought it looked good back then.
I am sorry to say this...but i've had enough of wooden plinths.
Nice work on the whole power supply and the dedicated support.
In my book the original turntable could just be a donor of parts.
Once you the modification you are the God of your project.
Well done!There is nothing i like more than original thinking - and not to be restrained by what the original designers thought it looked good back then.
I am sorry to say this...but i've had enough of wooden plinths.
Nice work on the whole power supply and the dedicated support.
In my book the original turntable could just be a donor of parts.
Once you the modification you are the God of your project.
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This thread is way more informative, interesting, educational, awesome, useful and incredible because of all the other SP-10 projects that are running alongside mine. So it's not 'my thread' anymore, and I am 110% overjoyed to see all the other work being done.
I'm going to ask the Mods to rename the thread.
"The incredible Technics SP-10 thread"
This thread is way more informative, interesting, educational, awesome, useful and incredible because of all the other SP-10 projects that are running alongside mine. So it's not 'my thread' anymore, and I am 110% overjoyed to see all the other work being done.
I'm going to ask the Mods to rename the thread.
"The incredible Technics SP-10 thread"
I'm honored that I can be a part of this thread. Thanks for your continued interest. Just tell me when I'm posting too much.
Absolutely. Give me a couple more months to finish my amps and turntable.
I'm in the Ala Moana area, FYI.
Spent most of my afternoons this week sanding, filling, priming on the stand. Laid down the color today. The process was 1 coat self etching primer followed by two coats 2k primer. Sand (220 orbital), filler (Rage, gold) on bad areas of the steel and to shape welds at the top bar to posts. Hand sand. 2 more coats of 2k primer, this time wet sand with block, 400 then 600. Wash well with water, dry, clean with oil/adhesive remover, 2 medium coats of single stage Porsche Black Pearl C9X. All products Chromax (previously DuPont).
I'm tempted to do a little polishing and leave this look. But the plan is to lay down one coat of Alsa Soft-Touch. One reason is for the texture but also it is highly scratch resistant.
I have not been able to find any solid information on spraying this Soft-Touch, like prep, and specifically drying time between color and spraying the Soft-Touch. One person said I needed to wait about 30 minutes. Which this is about right for a clear coat on a base coat of the same product line. I was a little skeptical so as a precaution I sprayed out a test panel. Looked great
Then 30 minutes later it looked like
I'm guessing the Soft-Touch wouldn't let the solvents out of the color coat.
So plan B is to wait till Monday and wet sand it down to 1500 grit and then spray the Soft-Touch on Tuesday. Wet sanding should allow a little more of the solvents to evaporate and the sanding will give the Soft-Touch a little bit to grab onto.
Then spent the rest of the day starting on the shelves. As I have previously mentioned, I have unlimited access to a full cabinet shop (well at least when I'm not interfering with the shop guys) so I started cutting up a sheet of 3/4" mahogany ply and a stick of 2" x 5" solid mahogany.
The lower three shelves will be just 3/4" ply with a 1" return covering the steel shelf supports, the Minus K will sit on shelf made up of 1/2" aluminum plate laminated to 3/4" plywood. The top shelf is 1" ply laminated to 3/4" mahogany ply with a band of solid 2" x 5" mahogany. I assembled the top shelf, all joined by Lamello (biscuits), glue and clamped. The center plywood area will actually be covered by the turntable.
I will be shaping the outside edge some to add interest and the color of all the shelves and upper valance will be similar to these armboards (this shot before satin clear was laid down)
DIY HIFI is a lot of work!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm tempted to do a little polishing and leave this look. But the plan is to lay down one coat of Alsa Soft-Touch. One reason is for the texture but also it is highly scratch resistant.
I have not been able to find any solid information on spraying this Soft-Touch, like prep, and specifically drying time between color and spraying the Soft-Touch. One person said I needed to wait about 30 minutes. Which this is about right for a clear coat on a base coat of the same product line. I was a little skeptical so as a precaution I sprayed out a test panel. Looked great
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then 30 minutes later it looked like
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm guessing the Soft-Touch wouldn't let the solvents out of the color coat.
So plan B is to wait till Monday and wet sand it down to 1500 grit and then spray the Soft-Touch on Tuesday. Wet sanding should allow a little more of the solvents to evaporate and the sanding will give the Soft-Touch a little bit to grab onto.
Then spent the rest of the day starting on the shelves. As I have previously mentioned, I have unlimited access to a full cabinet shop (well at least when I'm not interfering with the shop guys) so I started cutting up a sheet of 3/4" mahogany ply and a stick of 2" x 5" solid mahogany.
The lower three shelves will be just 3/4" ply with a 1" return covering the steel shelf supports, the Minus K will sit on shelf made up of 1/2" aluminum plate laminated to 3/4" plywood. The top shelf is 1" ply laminated to 3/4" mahogany ply with a band of solid 2" x 5" mahogany. I assembled the top shelf, all joined by Lamello (biscuits), glue and clamped. The center plywood area will actually be covered by the turntable.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I will be shaping the outside edge some to add interest and the color of all the shelves and upper valance will be similar to these armboards (this shot before satin clear was laid down)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
DIY HIFI is a lot of work!
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.
Well spotted !
Not trying, done that, now just optimising the performance at 16 2/3 for Prestige and 90rpm for Pathé !!
.
I can't imagine even trying to figure out what you've wired up!
Thanks for sharing your comments about "Prestige" and "Pathe". Made me read about the history of vinyl to understand what the names refered too.
I didn't realize that the "format" wars have been going on for over a hundred years.
Today I'm trying to finish the outboard power supply. I have completed mounting everything and started plugging in the electrical connectors.
I need some advice on grounding. The original power supply does not connect to AC ground (2-wire plug). The TT, umbilical, and it's chassis mounted connector are grounded to the chassis. So unless someone thinks I should ground the chassis to the AC supply I'm leaving it off.
Here is a pic of the board and the chassis ground
Before I plugged in the boards to the power supply I powered it up. No issues. Then to keep with my step by step conversion I plugged in the boards, propped up the cover, set the TT (minus plinth) on top and plugged the motor into the board. Powered it back up, starts/stops and speed changes just as it should.
So the conversion is good and tested to this point. All that's left is the new umbilical.
I'm really happy with how everything is laying out in the chassis. The start/stop button wiring reached without modification, and the power supply interconnect makes a short run through the divider. I covered the power supply interconnect with braided metal wrap and then shrink wrap over that to isolate from the board. The factory wires from the motor to the board are long enough to cut and splice to the new umbilical with enough length to connect the new recept to the factory plug.
The plug has 16 connections, the TT needs 12. So I isolated the 2 connections to the control circuit to one side to minimize interference buy leaving the adjoining pins empty.
Building the umbilical now.
I need some advice on grounding. The original power supply does not connect to AC ground (2-wire plug). The TT, umbilical, and it's chassis mounted connector are grounded to the chassis. So unless someone thinks I should ground the chassis to the AC supply I'm leaving it off.
Here is a pic of the board and the chassis ground
Before I plugged in the boards to the power supply I powered it up. No issues. Then to keep with my step by step conversion I plugged in the boards, propped up the cover, set the TT (minus plinth) on top and plugged the motor into the board. Powered it back up, starts/stops and speed changes just as it should.
So the conversion is good and tested to this point. All that's left is the new umbilical.
I'm really happy with how everything is laying out in the chassis. The start/stop button wiring reached without modification, and the power supply interconnect makes a short run through the divider. I covered the power supply interconnect with braided metal wrap and then shrink wrap over that to isolate from the board. The factory wires from the motor to the board are long enough to cut and splice to the new umbilical with enough length to connect the new recept to the factory plug.
The plug has 16 connections, the TT needs 12. So I isolated the 2 connections to the control circuit to one side to minimize interference buy leaving the adjoining pins empty.
Building the umbilical now.
Success!!
I used 20 guage 7 strand wire, soldered to the pins on the connector. The pair of leads to the control circuit are in a metal braided wrap, and then the whole harness in Techflex. The umbilical is about 16".
First I adjusted the voltage of the power supply, then powered it up. Was very happy when the platter started spinning after I pushed the start button!
Put it back on the scope and reset it back to spec.
Then played a couple records, fantastic! Well as fantastic as it can be in a rough plywood plinth.
So unless something goes wrong from here, this shows you can remove the brake assembly, relocate the electronics, and eliminate the visual strobe assembly.
Next step, a new plinth for just the motor/platter/arm.
I used 20 guage 7 strand wire, soldered to the pins on the connector. The pair of leads to the control circuit are in a metal braided wrap, and then the whole harness in Techflex. The umbilical is about 16".
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
First I adjusted the voltage of the power supply, then powered it up. Was very happy when the platter started spinning after I pushed the start button!
Put it back on the scope and reset it back to spec.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then played a couple records, fantastic! Well as fantastic as it can be in a rough plywood plinth.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So unless something goes wrong from here, this shows you can remove the brake assembly, relocate the electronics, and eliminate the visual strobe assembly.
Next step, a new plinth for just the motor/platter/arm.
And then there was the Edison Diamond where some early 78's were played with, yes; a diamond ! But it failed and he withdrew 100's of thousand of records and shut up shop.
But some of those about 100 year old unplayed records surfaced a couple of years ago and were on eBay, I have two boxes full !
Dave