edjosh23 said:I've worked on my Frugel-Horns quite a bit, for my FE127s, but those wedges were not so easy to cut. Here are SOME of the scraps from cutting and trying to cut the 18.25" wedge.
Hi Josh,
I imagine you mean FE126E, not FE127.
Cheers,
Gio.
GG,
No I'm using an FE127. I need a shielded woofer for my dorm. I'll play with it a little bit, but basically it should be a little bass heavy, says Dave.
Thanks,
Josh
No I'm using an FE127. I need a shielded woofer for my dorm. I'll play with it a little bit, but basically it should be a little bass heavy, says Dave.
Thanks,
Josh
Probably better too much bass than too little. As Greg pointed out to me a while back, you can't shape (mechanically or electrically) what you don't have. If I get chance after looking at the PAWOs I'll run a MathCad sim on the Frugel with the 127.
Just wanted to say that I have a constuction diary on my website .
Josh
Josh
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Smoother would be better, but it sure is pretty 🙂
The disances to the edges has quite a bit of dynamic range which might have a surprising result.
From Olsen's graphs posted earlier that can also be improved with an edge trailing bacl from the edges... but as i said early, a piece of cardboard made an improvement over no supra-baffle...
Is that going to fit over the flush mounted driver?
dave
The disances to the edges has quite a bit of dynamic range which might have a surprising result.
From Olsen's graphs posted earlier that can also be improved with an edge trailing bacl from the edges... but as i said early, a piece of cardboard made an improvement over no supra-baffle...
Is that going to fit over the flush mounted driver?
dave
Yes I will likely run into some diffraction issues, but I do not have a bandsaw and used a table saw and router to cut those. I can try to round the endges slightly, but I don't think it will make that much of a difference. I figured that with the tools I have I might as well stager the two 13 point stars because no matter what I'll rub into some diffraction issues and that a suprabaffle is better than none, might as well make it look cool. I was going to prime that tomorrow. If you all think I should round the endges I will.
Driver will mount to the ouside, no front horn loading. at some point I'm going to make a jig to help flushmount these Fostex, but right now, and thanks to time constraints I will not be able to flushmount. I'm leaving on the 14th to move my girlfriend into her apartment, and will stay with her until the 16th, and then am leaving to move in myself on the 19th for school, so I have limited time to finish construction and put a nice finish on the enclosures. I've been working on finishes and will get more done tomorrow... hopefully.
Forgot to add... I've been burning the drivers in in my room. Today I was able to add the suprabaffle... it made such a huge difference.
By the way, that is my Baby in the background.
Thanks,
Josh
Driver will mount to the ouside, no front horn loading. at some point I'm going to make a jig to help flushmount these Fostex, but right now, and thanks to time constraints I will not be able to flushmount. I'm leaving on the 14th to move my girlfriend into her apartment, and will stay with her until the 16th, and then am leaving to move in myself on the 19th for school, so I have limited time to finish construction and put a nice finish on the enclosures. I've been working on finishes and will get more done tomorrow... hopefully.
Forgot to add... I've been burning the drivers in in my room. Today I was able to add the suprabaffle... it made such a huge difference.
By the way, that is my Baby in the background.
Thanks,
Josh
Well I finally finished the Frugel-Horns. I am extremely mad at the wood that I bought. It was warped and so for the second side pannel, I had to use screws at the top and bottom because the wood was so warped.
Since I finished the night before I left for college at 11 at night, I couldn't polyurethane and decided not to put on the suprabaffle until I polyurethane, fill the screw holes, and paint sripes over the screw holes. I just had time to hook up the drivers a couple of hours ago. They have only burned in for about 70 hours or so, so they are a little bright still. They are not corner loaded in my dorm right now (on a waiting list to loft our beds) but bass isn't bad, probably down to 70hz, I haven't run any sine waves yet, so I'm not exactly sure. I think with more break in they will get to be more bass heavy, hopefully. Dave said the FE127 would be a bit bass heavy with the high Q in horns, but it doesn't seem that way with the room setup, little burn-in, no deflector, no suprabaffle, and my somewhat bass shy tube amp. Wow, long list of things that I need to do to really give an accurate review of the speakers and enclosures, but after a couple weeks of burn-in and hopefully some corner loading I can give a better review.
Thanks,
Josh
Since I finished the night before I left for college at 11 at night, I couldn't polyurethane and decided not to put on the suprabaffle until I polyurethane, fill the screw holes, and paint sripes over the screw holes. I just had time to hook up the drivers a couple of hours ago. They have only burned in for about 70 hours or so, so they are a little bright still. They are not corner loaded in my dorm right now (on a waiting list to loft our beds) but bass isn't bad, probably down to 70hz, I haven't run any sine waves yet, so I'm not exactly sure. I think with more break in they will get to be more bass heavy, hopefully. Dave said the FE127 would be a bit bass heavy with the high Q in horns, but it doesn't seem that way with the room setup, little burn-in, no deflector, no suprabaffle, and my somewhat bass shy tube amp. Wow, long list of things that I need to do to really give an accurate review of the speakers and enclosures, but after a couple weeks of burn-in and hopefully some corner loading I can give a better review.
Thanks,
Josh
Dave..
what do you have the horn length and tuning worked out to be? Curious because I just di a sketch in Autocad of a different horn, curious if I can use the frugal horn a s a "Test" of my method🙂
what do you have the horn length and tuning worked out to be? Curious because I just di a sketch in Autocad of a different horn, curious if I can use the frugal horn a s a "Test" of my method🙂
Re: Dave..
Sheet 1 of the drawings clearly details this...
dave
Nanook said:what do you have the horn length
Sheet 1 of the drawings clearly details this...
dave
oops, was looking at page one of a different document (different revision?)
But the good news is that at least my method regarding the other horn is , or appears to be accurate.
The other horn is the "1955" elsewhere on this forum.. thanx again.
But the good news is that at least my method regarding the other horn is , or appears to be accurate.
The other horn is the "1955" elsewhere on this forum.. thanx again.
was looking at page one of a different document (different revision?)
I've still got a lot of work to do on the docs, so expect a few revisions.
The 1st flat-paks are now under development for early adoptors without facility to make their own. They won't require much more than glue, packing or masking tape, and a screwdriver to assemble.
Since this part of the topic is moving towards a commercial vien, lets move any discussion of this to my AVB Thread.


dave
metalman said:quit pressing my woo-woo button. I've got too many projects on the go already.![]()
:^)
No i won't stop...
Speaking of projects, we missed you at the fest... but i'll be over in Canada at the end of the week. If you can manage to get the cyro Cat 5 to Cal's i can pick it up (pull some off for yourself & distribution to Lower Mainlanders) -- assumming of course that project made it to the top of the queue at some point.
dave
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