Today I mounted rubber feet on my M2X mono blocks. The thin plastic feet in the Deluxe kit is not very "Deluxe". The placement is important as the mount screw has to go free of the edge of base plate as it bends down at the edges. Then short screws is also necessary as the "free room" to baseplate is limited. But think I did quite well. Now blocks are warming up for the final DC offset adjustment. I have installed REW distortion software and will try it out using Focusrite for distortion measurements.
Attachments
best place is very end of fifth slot in each corner
that way each foot will have support on heatsink angle/bracket , while corner screw will be away enough
it is tricky to make 4mm or so hole in slot , but easy if you use round 4mm (or little bigger) Dia round file instead of drill bit
that way each foot will have support on heatsink angle/bracket , while corner screw will be away enough
it is tricky to make 4mm or so hole in slot , but easy if you use round 4mm (or little bigger) Dia round file instead of drill bit
Attachments
Last edited:
Ok.....so screw is fastenet to base plate? …..so you get support also from baseplate?
I drilled 6mm holes for feet in bottom panel only. It feels stable and I just tested it using my weight on chassis (only 80 kg) and this was no problem
…..but will think of the other option next time. 6mm should also be possible. The 4mm hole in base plate can be drilled to 6mm. But maybe also something for Modulo shop to look at to make a better "feet solution".....for an easier build with "quality feet"?
I drilled 6mm holes for feet in bottom panel only. It feels stable and I just tested it using my weight on chassis (only 80 kg) and this was no problem
…..but will think of the other option next time. 6mm should also be possible. The 4mm hole in base plate can be drilled to 6mm. But maybe also something for Modulo shop to look at to make a better "feet solution".....for an easier build with "quality feet"?
Ok....will have a look. L-bracket is going full length of heatsinks but at the red circle the base plate attach to L-bracket. I assume that this is the argument for that this area is the strongest. Then I maybe was "overthinking" that 4mm holes in base plate was used for the feet screw.
But one more suggestion for Modushop (HiFi 2000) to improve is the relative thin back panel which bends a bit inwards (probably from the machining). Maybe 1mm thicker could solve this or some supports on top and bottom panel. It is quite easy to press outwards by hands to align back panel.
But one more suggestion for Modushop (HiFi 2000) to improve is the relative thin back panel which bends a bit inwards (probably from the machining). Maybe 1mm thicker could solve this or some supports on top and bottom panel. It is quite easy to press outwards by hands to align back panel.
Attachments
for that money , at least when you're dealing with them directly, with delivery in EU (this side of Big Splash) , I'm satisfied with every detail of their cases , be it Steel covers or full Alu
higher level of details would increase price , not because more work or so- on one specimen , simply because of changes in production process
higher level of details would increase price , not because more work or so- on one specimen , simply because of changes in production process
Last edited:
I am also relative satisfied. I think the base plate is where these chassis "shines".
I know you get what you pay for. But I can see that DIY people which has a home metal work shop can make some chassis which are a couple of levels above the Modushop. Also when I look at an original PassLab amp (like Sony VFET) the mechanical quality of the chassis seems a bit higher. The price also of course.
Yeah - it's a bit tricky sliding the washers in there and pushing the bolts through - used very slim needle nose pliers ...
I may try it tomorrow when I am "fresh". If you are tired you get angry easily…..
wrote longish post with all facts , then clicked wrong (custom) button on new mouse and everything gone
so , to cut long story short :
Modushop 4U/400 case , delivered anywhere in EU , for sum price of 230-250E is damn bargain
it doesn't matter - even if mashine shop time is free , you know everything (even Anodising) , have metal for scrapyard prices , Fairies are helping you to be quick and/or don't count 75% of your time .......... for that amount of greenies , you can't have that quality level
been there , done that: Papa’s Koan (M)2 , an amp for living room | Zen Mod Blog
you're doing it only to have Custom things ...... not cheaper
and Custom or better or "better" always cost more
After fine tuning chassis of other amp it was time for final offset adjustment. After a good hour of warm-up I did the adjustment and as the picture shows it is possible to get down to just around 1 mV DC. Then I switched to AC mode to check if DMM could measure any noise/hum. It just shows 0.0 mV AC. On other amps 0.1 - 0.3 mV is quite normal. So design of PSU and placement of components and shielding of Edcor seems to have "paid off". I am quite happy with this as some had problems with noise pickup by Edcor. Now this may be the most silent amp I have built so far. Will see when I get to the distortion measurements.
Attachments
I have a pretty well equipped machine shop (and a professional woodshop), and it is not worth making your own chassis.
I looked at a very closely, I would end up saving less than $100.00 depending on construction. Most likely the savings would be closer to $60.00.
Simply not worth it for the amount of work it would involve.
The folks who could do it cheaply and easily work in fab shops, where they can get scraps and use the shop equipment.
All that said, the chassis offered on the DIYStore are pretty gimpy, and poorly finished.
Still they are about the best deal out there, so I buy them.
joshua,
as someone who built his own chassis completely, used parts of Modushop chassis together with my own, has modified Modushop chassis, and has used them as intended, I fully agree with your assessments.
This includes the perceived quality of the Modushop chassis.
... and I am also happy to being able to buy them for their prices, and I am ordering from them regularly
Best regards, Claas
as someone who built his own chassis completely, used parts of Modushop chassis together with my own, has modified Modushop chassis, and has used them as intended, I fully agree with your assessments.
This includes the perceived quality of the Modushop chassis.
... and I am also happy to being able to buy them for their prices, and I am ordering from them regularly
Best regards, Claas
Now after M2X blocks are finished and I got the back panels adjusted using washers it looks quite good. 1 mm thicker back panel and top and bottom cover would help a lot regarding "perceived quality". The L-bracket on heatsinks could also be a machined part instead of "bended metal". But it is also about learning how the parts "interacts" and make small improvement your self.
I tried loop back test using REW software (ver. 5.19). 5.20 seems available but I was not able to download it.
In software forum (seems it was put there by administrator) I posted my problems as I get more than 1% noise when performning a loop back test using Focusrite. With Arta I get 0.00x figure. So I need to find my error or use Arta for distortion measurement. Arta shows 0 dB as full output and then noise floor is 120 - 140 dB down. REW shows +75 dB for fundamental or so and noise floor +5 dB or so.....but that is probably just a reference that can be "adapted". Will see as it was first time I tried to use REW software. Some learning curve is expected.
I tried loop back test using REW software (ver. 5.19). 5.20 seems available but I was not able to download it.
In software forum (seems it was put there by administrator) I posted my problems as I get more than 1% noise when performning a loop back test using Focusrite. With Arta I get 0.00x figure. So I need to find my error or use Arta for distortion measurement. Arta shows 0 dB as full output and then noise floor is 120 - 140 dB down. REW shows +75 dB for fundamental or so and noise floor +5 dB or so.....but that is probably just a reference that can be "adapted". Will see as it was first time I tried to use REW software. Some learning curve is expected.
