If you would like a discrete buffer with no caps, try the DCB1 "Mesmerize" Mezmerize B1 Buffer Preamp (Makes 2 channels; Rev 1.0) - Circuit Boards
thanks boys, but mezmez is compositely different concept. long away from the Zen.
the B1 will be fine, I have input caps inside the T-amps so i do not need theme.
what about that output resistor 1K?
the B1 will be fine, I have input caps inside the T-amps so i do not need theme.
what about that output resistor 1K?
I chose the Mesmerize personally as I also run an Aleph J with is cap coupled. I do not like capacitors and their "sound" which is the reason I chose the Mezmerize over the B1. The signal path is very simple ... pot, resistor, JFET, resistor. Spencer here on the forum is a good source for legit JFET's (not eBay China clones). He can also match them for you and his prices are reasonable.
thanks craigtone,
and Q100 and Q101 are the same?
i tried to search Spencer, not successful. tell me you nice guys where can I find him?
and Q100 and Q101 are the same?
i tried to search Spencer, not successful. tell me you nice guys where can I find him?
Yes, both are the same and here is the link to Spencer's store: Store FET Audio | Hi-End Audio Projects
Just e-mail him as the website is not always up-to-date.
Ease of adjustment Turbo V2/V3
Hi all,
Can anyone think of any good reasons not to mount the input PCBs on spacers on the rear panel, also mounting P1/2/3 of the rear side of the PCB with access holes drilled on the rear panel so you can adjust them with a "tweaky"
Also if you use axial resistors for R17/19 21 etc it would be very easy to make a loop in the wire ends of one in each output set, solder on a pair of wires and extend them to the rear panel with a couple of 2mm/4mm sockets so the you could monitor the bias volts and therefore the current through output devices.
I know that the heatsinks are required to reach approx 50C but this idea would save removing/replacing the covers each time, so not upsetting the thermal equilibrium.
I also note on the boards in Jim's photos there is not provision for the diodes D1/2 etc. has this been corrected on later boards.
John
Hi all,
Can anyone think of any good reasons not to mount the input PCBs on spacers on the rear panel, also mounting P1/2/3 of the rear side of the PCB with access holes drilled on the rear panel so you can adjust them with a "tweaky"
Also if you use axial resistors for R17/19 21 etc it would be very easy to make a loop in the wire ends of one in each output set, solder on a pair of wires and extend them to the rear panel with a couple of 2mm/4mm sockets so the you could monitor the bias volts and therefore the current through output devices.
I know that the heatsinks are required to reach approx 50C but this idea would save removing/replacing the covers each time, so not upsetting the thermal equilibrium.
I also note on the boards in Jim's photos there is not provision for the diodes D1/2 etc. has this been corrected on later boards.
John
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You could certianly back mount the pots make some holes for access -- that would be pretty neat indeed. But if the only reason for doing so is not upsetting the temp with the lid on or off, as Zen says, it's not worth the effort... The circuit just isn't that twitchy. ( And if it is, your heatsinks are too small.)
Hi all,
All very fair comments thank you, however the servo idea really rings bells with me as then I could control it from a Smart phone whilst away on holiday😀
I suppose the only snag to the idea is I don't have a smart phone D'oh.
I would build it in the 5U case anyway Jim but it's nice to know it is a pretty stable amplifier.
Right, now to buy all the bits.
John
All very fair comments thank you, however the servo idea really rings bells with me as then I could control it from a Smart phone whilst away on holiday😀
I suppose the only snag to the idea is I don't have a smart phone D'oh.
I would build it in the 5U case anyway Jim but it's nice to know it is a pretty stable amplifier.
Right, now to buy all the bits.
John
Hi Guys,
I`m finishing make upgrade to my Aleph X , now it is with JFET`s. The sound of it isent warm and full anymore. So I want to change the Resistors to old ones.
I`m wonder what resistors are you using guys and where can I buy them best in EU.
Mr. Nelsons personal preferences are Panasonics for the 1-3 watt
varieties, and Dale (Vishay) for the precision types.
I wonder where can I get those in EU?
And what about the caps on the PCB. Panasonic or Black Gate?
I`m finishing make upgrade to my Aleph X , now it is with JFET`s. The sound of it isent warm and full anymore. So I want to change the Resistors to old ones.
I`m wonder what resistors are you using guys and where can I buy them best in EU.
Mr. Nelsons personal preferences are Panasonics for the 1-3 watt
varieties, and Dale (Vishay) for the precision types.
I wonder where can I get those in EU?
And what about the caps on the PCB. Panasonic or Black Gate?
Vishay & Philips 1%, 600mW, 100ppm/C, from Rapidonline are good.
They now also do RoyalOhm to the same specification.
They now also do RoyalOhm to the same specification.
For the caps, check out Silmic II's. They are about the best sounding current production electrolytic cap out there. I bypass them with Vishay MKP1837's because I hate WIMA's! 😀