They ARE ultra awesome! And I'm sure have allowed many people who ordinarily couldn't have built amps successfully, succeed! A great contribution to our community!
I could not agree more.
Good morning
I am an old (63YO) audio enthusiast with very little soldering skills (acquiring some).
My sound system consists of Class D amps (Samwu TPA3118, Weiner, and lately a 3255EVM which I swap on whim outputing to a pair of Tannoy bookshelves.
My sources are a TV, DVD player and a Digital Box which plays FLAC, WAV and MP3s
For volume control, I route the input signal to a cheap 2-tube buffer. I was able to buy an external switch to select sources but it is flakey.
I would like to assemble a pre-amp with minimum work, hopefully forgiving in the soldering area. And if possible the minimum number of components and cost.
Would anyone please advise me whether the Bi or the Mesmerize (or other circuti) would fit my requirements.
I have very little info about these circuits except that they have a selectable input and very good reputation for sound output.
Thank you.
I am an old (63YO) audio enthusiast with very little soldering skills (acquiring some).
My sound system consists of Class D amps (Samwu TPA3118, Weiner, and lately a 3255EVM which I swap on whim outputing to a pair of Tannoy bookshelves.
My sources are a TV, DVD player and a Digital Box which plays FLAC, WAV and MP3s
For volume control, I route the input signal to a cheap 2-tube buffer. I was able to buy an external switch to select sources but it is flakey.
I would like to assemble a pre-amp with minimum work, hopefully forgiving in the soldering area. And if possible the minimum number of components and cost.
Would anyone please advise me whether the Bi or the Mesmerize (or other circuti) would fit my requirements.
I have very little info about these circuits except that they have a selectable input and very good reputation for sound output.
Thank you.
Would anyone please advise me whether the Bi or the Mesmerize (or other circuti) would fit my requirements.
The B1 would work for you. Boards and Jfets are available at PassDiy. It's not a complicated build, you can easily handle it.
Unless the fact that the B1 board from Pass only has two switchable inputs creates a problem for you.
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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention.
I also use a turntable through a discrete phono preamp before the tube buffer.
Will that be a complication?
I also use a turntable through a discrete phono preamp before the tube buffer.
Will that be a complication?
The B1 feeds the power amplifier.
For phono you use:
phono > RIAA pre-amp > B1 > power amp
or
phono > RIAA pre-amp > tube buffer > B1 > power amp
You would need the tube buffer only if your RIAA pre-amp cannot adequately drive the cables to the next stage.
The B1 accepts two inputs, whereas the DCB1 based Mezmerise has upto six inputs.
For phono you use:
phono > RIAA pre-amp > B1 > power amp
or
phono > RIAA pre-amp > tube buffer > B1 > power amp
You would need the tube buffer only if your RIAA pre-amp cannot adequately drive the cables to the next stage.
The B1 accepts two inputs, whereas the DCB1 based Mezmerise has upto six inputs.
Dear 6L6,
I saw some members connect their speaker negative back to the board GND at first and then to the power GND (star point). Also some members connect the speaker negative directly to the power supply GND (start point).
I thought in the first case, a big wire is needed, big current from speaker and small signal go in the same wire. And in the second case, a small GND wire is sufficient, because only small signal is going thru the wire.
What difference could they have? And which way could be better under which conditions?
I saw some members connect their speaker negative back to the board GND at first and then to the power GND (star point). Also some members connect the speaker negative directly to the power supply GND (start point).
I thought in the first case, a big wire is needed, big current from speaker and small signal go in the same wire. And in the second case, a small GND wire is sufficient, because only small signal is going thru the wire.
What difference could they have? And which way could be better under which conditions?
Whichever way hums less in your build is the way to do it. And the speaker negative (ground) always has the full power to the speaker on it. Use bigger wire.
Hi 6L6, do you know the part number for the diode bridge you use in power supply of some Firstwatt you have built? Also the 4 terminal white screw-in thing used to hold in thermistors. What type of IEC inlet you used?
If not part number then what are these 3 things called? Thanks!
Edit: I saw the BOM for power supply and didn't see these parts.
I'm complete noob to SS. I've built countless tube amps.
If not part number then what are these 3 things called? Thanks!
Edit: I saw the BOM for power supply and didn't see these parts.
I'm complete noob to SS. I've built countless tube amps.
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Hi 6L6, do you know the part number for the diode bridge you use in power supply of some Firstwatt you have built? Also the 4 terminal white screw-in thing used to hold in thermistors. What type of IEC inlet you used?
If not part number then what are these 3 things called? Thanks!
Edit: I saw the BOM for power supply and didn't see these parts.
I'm complete noob to SS. I've built countless tube amps.
I used this terminal part: 1546670-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
and here's the link for GBPC3502 bridges: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/GBPC3502
I used this terminal part: 1546670-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
and here's the link for GBPC3502 bridges: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/GBPC3502
Thank you very much. Which PT did you use?
Diode help
I am planning to use the diode section of the board. I noted that on the first page of the build guide 30A, 200V minimum diodes are recommended. I was not sure if this referred to forward or reverse voltage and current. Looking at Mouser's parameters listed for TO220 devices it looks like this is forward current and reverse voltage. Can anyone confirm this?
Based on Jeff Young's advice about "fast" and "soft" diodes I came up with the diodes linked below. They exceed the suggested minimums and the data sheet for them touts them as fast and soft. Will these diodes work well for the PSU?
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/vs-hfa30ta60c-m3-1351050.pdf
I am planning to use the diode section of the board. I noted that on the first page of the build guide 30A, 200V minimum diodes are recommended. I was not sure if this referred to forward or reverse voltage and current. Looking at Mouser's parameters listed for TO220 devices it looks like this is forward current and reverse voltage. Can anyone confirm this?
Based on Jeff Young's advice about "fast" and "soft" diodes I came up with the diodes linked below. They exceed the suggested minimums and the data sheet for them touts them as fast and soft. Will these diodes work well for the PSU?
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/vs-hfa30ta60c-m3-1351050.pdf
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Oops I thought I had this posted in the universal PSU forum, guess I had too many tabs open. Thanks for responding and correctly guessing what I am building.
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Just purchased a couple tubes of IRFP9140 and IRFP140 MOSFETs.
Need to match them. This instructional article says to bias to .2V across the MOSFET source resistor.
Is the actual parallel Source resistance actually .235 Ohm?
What's the actual current each mosfet sees?
What's the total bias for a push-pull F4 channel?
Thanks,
Vince
Need to match them. This instructional article says to bias to .2V across the MOSFET source resistor.
Is the actual parallel Source resistance actually .235 Ohm?
What's the actual current each mosfet sees?
What's the total bias for a push-pull F4 channel?
Thanks,
Vince
Can someone delete posts #95 and 96? I posted in the wrong thread.
Meant to post in the F4 Build Guide. I posted there.
Thanks,
Vince
Meant to post in the F4 Build Guide. I posted there.
Thanks,
Vince
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Another very successful build, Aleph J!
Thanks to 6L6 for the guide which I always follow exactly. I can't stop listening to it every night. My favorite amp for 1-2 months now. The F5 is taking a rest 😉
Hoping, a guide will come out for a heavy class AB.
Many thanks again to Jim☺☺☺
Thanks to 6L6 for the guide which I always follow exactly. I can't stop listening to it every night. My favorite amp for 1-2 months now. The F5 is taking a rest 😉
Hoping, a guide will come out for a heavy class AB.
Many thanks again to Jim☺☺☺
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Hello
I would like to start building 2 monoblock i would likeHell finding the pcb and components knoWing that
I already gave the Transformers 2 ×24v and capacitor 12×47000uf
Excuse my english
I come from dom tom
I translate by google translate
I would like to start building 2 monoblock i would likeHell finding the pcb and components knoWing that
I already gave the Transformers 2 ×24v and capacitor 12×47000uf
Excuse my english
I come from dom tom
I translate by google translate
This switch mode supply seems to be right for First watt amps.
Maybe finally there is a +/- supply for the purpose?
This seems to be a SMPS that would work for the FW amps.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps...-module-us-version-300w-24v-120v-p-12848.html
AmI missing something? Maybe test it?
Maybe finally there is a +/- supply for the purpose?
This seems to be a SMPS that would work for the FW amps.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/smps...-module-us-version-300w-24v-120v-p-12848.html
AmI missing something? Maybe test it?
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