Hey guys, sup? Haven't been frequenting these forums for almost 3 years, but when I saw this year's lineup at Roskilde, I knew I had to go finally... I built the original Boominator Mini back in 2013 with the 6" Aura's, but I gave it to some skater buddies after I left Norway last year. That thing was so fun to build, and so fun to use. Everyone was ecstatic about it.
Anyways - just ordered drivers for the original Boominator. The Wiki is unfortunately down, and even though I've been searching for it, I cannot find the answer to this: Is this sucker supposed to have two 7,2Ah SLA's? I vaguely remember it from years back. I know about the LifePo4, but trying to keep this as cheap as possible. Also, I have some amplifier options. I have two identical "Muse" TA2024, and two different TPA3116 (one Yuanjing and one from Audiobah with speaker protection). I read something about the TPA3116 have an "internal feedback loop" making it unsuitable for EQ or something, but yeah... This is Greek to me. So, to condense this, two questions:
1. Should I get two SLA's?
2. Should I opt for TA2024 or TPA3116?
3. If TA2024, would it be a silly move to use BOTH? Just splitting the input signal and "double" the output. Or would this drain more battery than adding zest to ze party?
Anyways - just ordered drivers for the original Boominator. The Wiki is unfortunately down, and even though I've been searching for it, I cannot find the answer to this: Is this sucker supposed to have two 7,2Ah SLA's? I vaguely remember it from years back. I know about the LifePo4, but trying to keep this as cheap as possible. Also, I have some amplifier options. I have two identical "Muse" TA2024, and two different TPA3116 (one Yuanjing and one from Audiobah with speaker protection). I read something about the TPA3116 have an "internal feedback loop" making it unsuitable for EQ or something, but yeah... This is Greek to me. So, to condense this, two questions:
1. Should I get two SLA's?
2. Should I opt for TA2024 or TPA3116?
3. If TA2024, would it be a silly move to use BOTH? Just splitting the input signal and "double" the output. Or would this drain more battery than adding zest to ze party?
Ait you gais, from the its inception yesterday afternoon, I've already started assembly today. There's a hardware store right across the street from my job, so I went there today and played with their table saws. The whole thing was cut in 30 min, and I've done quite a bit of work on the wood. Drivers arrive tomorrow or Wednesday, and I think I'll have the sucker ready by the weekend. That's one quick project! Have a look at the pictures here.
nice on the FAST assembly, been working on mine for two years, but finally making the push to get it done.
yes, it was two SLAs. and at the time many recommended the TA-series amps, but now people like the 3116 and 3118 for the amplification.
THIS: will make your life much easier, a one-stop solution. costs $135 US, but you save a lot of time and effort.
C-AMP Standard - Canopy Sound
yes, it was two SLAs. and at the time many recommended the TA-series amps, but now people like the 3116 and 3118 for the amplification.
THIS: will make your life much easier, a one-stop solution. costs $135 US, but you save a lot of time and effort.
C-AMP Standard - Canopy Sound
you got me motivated Big SturL,
here's my start on the enclosure for the C-Amp for my boominator.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26327088441/in/dateposted-public/
I went with the Hammond 1590-FP1. Fits nice, not too small, a little room for wiring, and it just fits the terminal strips needed for the wiring of everything.
Gonna mount it tonight and start testing once I get the switches and such wired up...
This shows how nice GMarsh's work is for this purpose. Everything sealed up in one little enclosure, and everything handled on the card.
here's my start on the enclosure for the C-Amp for my boominator.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26327088441/in/dateposted-public/
I went with the Hammond 1590-FP1. Fits nice, not too small, a little room for wiring, and it just fits the terminal strips needed for the wiring of everything.
Gonna mount it tonight and start testing once I get the switches and such wired up...
This shows how nice GMarsh's work is for this purpose. Everything sealed up in one little enclosure, and everything handled on the card.
and applied thermal pad, mounted the C-Amp in the Hammond, and closed up the box.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26370311316/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26330013311/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/25793459063/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26303923052/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26370311316/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26330013311/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/25793459063/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/61137825@N03/26303923052/in/dateposted-public/
Happy to hear that I'm your source of inspiration Steve, haha! I continued steadfast yesterday, and cut the baffles with my trusty cheapo router. Also noticed that I had (of course) missed by a few mm on the baffle when cutting at the shop, so I had to route groves for the vertical wood (...). Makes assembly easier at least, plus I love to route. The drivers arrive tonight or tomorrow, and I'll have this done before the crack of beer on Friday. Mark. My. Words. As far as electronics goes - I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible. I could have ordered tweeters instead of piezos, and LifePo instead of SLA, but alas - this thing is to be dragged through the mud outside Copenhagen, so a little muddled high-end isn't really gonna be of much concern. Actually the whole thing is paid by credit card, and I couldn't really afford it in the first place - just one spontaneous thought I had to jump on.
GALLERY UPDATED!
GALLERY UPDATED!
GMarsh has a recommendation for a thermal pad from digikey.
he included this pad idea with his Weiner design and the C-Amp
there is a marked space on the bottom of the C-Amp for the pad.
you just stick it on there and then, using the 4mm standoff spacers, the pad will mesh with the metal enclosure and transfer heat to the box, making the whole thing the heat sink for the chip.
super easy.
thermal pad—digikey 1168-1701-ND
he included this pad idea with his Weiner design and the C-Amp
there is a marked space on the bottom of the C-Amp for the pad.
you just stick it on there and then, using the 4mm standoff spacers, the pad will mesh with the metal enclosure and transfer heat to the box, making the whole thing the heat sink for the chip.
super easy.
thermal pad—digikey 1168-1701-ND
well, you don't have to get it from digikey, check ebay and such, many sellers have 4mm thermal pad material for sale, check in the cpu cooling stuff.
look for 4mm pad with adhesive...
100mm x 100mm 4mm Thermal Heatsink Transfer Pad Double Sided Self Adhesive Tape | eBay
I think only difference here is you have to trim it yourself. which would take like one minute or so.
note: when you buy a weiner from gmarsh he also sells a pad and mounting kit with it... but he is not the one selling the C-Amp.
look for 4mm pad with adhesive...
100mm x 100mm 4mm Thermal Heatsink Transfer Pad Double Sided Self Adhesive Tape | eBay
I think only difference here is you have to trim it yourself. which would take like one minute or so.
note: when you buy a weiner from gmarsh he also sells a pad and mounting kit with it... but he is not the one selling the C-Amp.
I am putting my crossovers together and had a quick question, I have 3w metal film resistors NOT 5w as the filter diagram specifies.
I think I ordered extra so I can just parallel them for the proper value and wattage capacity.
but, in reviewing the thread, I found some posts where it said 2-3w was okay.
am I wrong in thinking this?
powering mine with the C=Amp, which is the tpa3118.
Can I use single 3w resistors in the crossover? Or should I parallel them for 6w and thus exceed the 5w spec I have seen?
This would save me some room on my boards, I want to use a dip switch and be able to select the attenuation between 2-4 ohms. 3 resistors vs 6 will make a lot of room.
so: is the minimum power rating for the resistor in the hp10w/407n combo filter 5w?
Or can 3w be used?
I think I ordered extra so I can just parallel them for the proper value and wattage capacity.
but, in reviewing the thread, I found some posts where it said 2-3w was okay.
am I wrong in thinking this?
powering mine with the C=Amp, which is the tpa3118.
Can I use single 3w resistors in the crossover? Or should I parallel them for 6w and thus exceed the 5w spec I have seen?
This would save me some room on my boards, I want to use a dip switch and be able to select the attenuation between 2-4 ohms. 3 resistors vs 6 will make a lot of room.
so: is the minimum power rating for the resistor in the hp10w/407n combo filter 5w?
Or can 3w be used?
Yeah, thanks for the reminder. That's actually one of the only rules I remembered from my junior high shop class electronics work. When I bought the resistors I doubled values and bought 2x as many so if I paralleled them I was covered.
Digikey only carries the metal film in 3w. So, to make the variable filter with 4-3-2 ohm settings, I bought 8.2,6.2,4, and 2 ohm resistor pairs at 3w. So, paralleled at half resistance but double the power -6w.
I actually bought 8 of each value and was gonna try and match them closely with my meter. Then, use a dip switch to dial in the values and see what sounded best between rock, techno, campfire folk, whatever.
At the time, I thought Saturnus had said wire wound resistors were no good. Otherwise I would have just bought the 5w wire wound Dayton 2‰ audio grade ones that aterren used in his crossovers.
I was thinking of doing that now, but those things are much bigger than the metal film ones I already have. Six of the metal films are just a bit larger than one of those Daytons laid out on the board.
Digikey only carries the metal film in 3w. So, to make the variable filter with 4-3-2 ohm settings, I bought 8.2,6.2,4, and 2 ohm resistor pairs at 3w. So, paralleled at half resistance but double the power -6w.
I actually bought 8 of each value and was gonna try and match them closely with my meter. Then, use a dip switch to dial in the values and see what sounded best between rock, techno, campfire folk, whatever.
At the time, I thought Saturnus had said wire wound resistors were no good. Otherwise I would have just bought the 5w wire wound Dayton 2‰ audio grade ones that aterren used in his crossovers.
I was thinking of doing that now, but those things are much bigger than the metal film ones I already have. Six of the metal films are just a bit larger than one of those Daytons laid out on the board.
For the record: casco epoxy rapid doesn't bond at all to the phenolic coating (and neither casco marin & teknik)
think I'll go for gorilla glue which seems to work fo sho even though it's not the best (cannot find any loctite pl premium here which I've seen mentioned) and I guess it also works for gluing the speaker backs to the centre brace. Unless anyone has any specific glue recommendations they know work with filmed ply which are available in scandinavia? <3
Never realised glue was so ridiculously complicated
think I'll go for gorilla glue which seems to work fo sho even though it's not the best (cannot find any loctite pl premium here which I've seen mentioned) and I guess it also works for gluing the speaker backs to the centre brace. Unless anyone has any specific glue recommendations they know work with filmed ply which are available in scandinavia? <3
Never realised glue was so ridiculously complicated
As it is an adhesive, it needs some "rough" surface to do so. 
You could use "Tesa ACXPlus" Tape for some parts, they'd even bonded a full (steel) house construction with it. We use it at work, it sticks to everything.
http://www.tesa-acxplus.com/eng
Would say nearly all glues wont stick at this surface for construction work (except acrylic foam like Tesa) or stuff from "Devcon" which is silicone based. If using silicone, you want to get "neutral" stuff, as winegard based formulas will corrode your electronics and metal parts.
So you either sand/route down the surfaces you want to glue (then woodglue will do) or use screws with foam seal tape in between.
You could use "Tesa ACXPlus" Tape for some parts, they'd even bonded a full (steel) house construction with it. We use it at work, it sticks to everything.
http://www.tesa-acxplus.com/eng
Would say nearly all glues wont stick at this surface for construction work (except acrylic foam like Tesa) or stuff from "Devcon" which is silicone based. If using silicone, you want to get "neutral" stuff, as winegard based formulas will corrode your electronics and metal parts.
So you either sand/route down the surfaces you want to glue (then woodglue will do) or use screws with foam seal tape in between.
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right now... i'm working towards a "thumpinator" sealed system for a bike trailer. i got a great deal on proel 96dB (@70-20k) FLASH8 2 ways to use as mains where i planned on getting a pair of $75 ea air motion tweeters @ 2.5kHz biamped to 4x12", but not only are the proels cheaper, they go way lower and will be easier to use as full range mains on stands. they don't sound shabby for $100+ for the pair. stage one of the trailer system will be just running the proels, stage 2 will be adding a pair of high efficiency 12s as subs, with stage 3 adding another pair i can just squeeze into the schwinn trailer i'm looking at. most trailers won't fit a pair of 14" x 28" boxes. as to amplification, i'm looking at 2x100w mains and 1x200w sure class D for the subs using a 70Hz inline passive filter powered by a pair of 12v x 7a amp batteries in series for 24v.