The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

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#6,241
You realize how expensive high power coils, resistors and caps are? There is also a lot of power wasted in those components. IMO the pro's outweigh the cons. You're probably better off cost- and powerwise by going active. Especially if you're going custom, I see no reason why not. Those big coils won't fit on the PCB, some op-amps will. If you need some help with your design, feel free to send me a PM.
 
#6,242
lutkeveld said:
You realize how expensive high power coils, resistors and caps are? There is also a lot of power wasted in those components. IMO the pro's outweigh the cons. You're probably better off cost- and powerwise by going active. Especially if you're going custom, I see no reason why not. Those big coils won't fit on the PCB, some op-amps will. If you need some help with your design, feel free to send me a PM.
Click to expand...
Biamping means twice as many amp channels and double the quiescent current though.

I ran the numbers on this some time ago. If you're listening to typical music with a reasonable crest factor and a A-weighted power distribution, you'll end up losing more power in the extra amp's quiescent current than you would in the crossover.
 
#6,244
lutkeveld said:
But it's not possible to convert those DSP settings to a passive filter. You could just go with the regular first order XO though. It depends on your prioritities... Active has quite some pros, which might outweigh the cons for Jodow.
Click to expand...

I'm definitely worried that the passive filter won't be up to par, and thats why I'd like Saturnus' feedback on it. Hes got a better grasp on the acoustics of it all. I'd like a 2nd order filter though, to prevent the two drivers to share too much of the same output signal... to prevent comb filtering effect. I dont really know how bad it is, but hey. Havent listened to one yet.

Maybe we can make a decent 2nd order filter for the HP10W and PHT407N combo. All earlier 2nd order filters are for different driver combinations.
Currently I have (going by memory, not sitting at the right computer atm)

Tweeters:3.3ohm in series with 4.6uF in series with (1.01mH || Tweeter || Tweeter)

Woofers: 0.43mH in series with (13.4uF || Woofer || Woofer)

We'll see if the idle current in my little prototype (in progress) is low enough I might bi-amp. Depends
 
#6,246
ABayley said:
I'd love to use the P.Audio SN-10MB Series II and P.Audio PHT-407N because of the quality difference that this thread has said it'll make but I can't find either for sale in the USA

What would the quality difference be if using 3/4" plywood?
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Loudspeakers plus was able to order the SN-10MB for me. From memory they were $120 or so each but that was back in 2014.

As for using 3/4 ply, I certainly would not bother. The construction is super strong using the 1/2 inch ply.
 
#6,248
Hi
I've recently started to look into the boominator and I decided that im going to build one but my big question is, what drivers and tweeters should i use for the build and what are all the parts needed to build one. I would appreciate if someone could give me some help with all the parts of a boominator and what i should buy
 
#6,250
Hi i was looking for solar panels to use with my C-AMP.

But it seems that the manufacturer of cheap CIS solar panels, AD-Solar quit their company activities. I tried to contact them many times to buy some panels but they don't show any sign of life, also their website is from strange guy now.

Does anybody know if there are other manufacturers that produce CIS/CIGS solar panels for a competitive price?

Or could i better use another type of solar panels? which should i use than? amorphous? or mono/polycrystaline?

greetz
 
#6,251
Everyone has recommended amorphous panels. I found a bunch of ok priced ones with some fast google-fu, however I'm using an external panel

I'm in the middle of the build now and I have a question: would it be dumb to mount the woofers without any screws at all? I've already glued them to the panels but I've noticed pretty much everyone has used screws mounting them.

Second question is if it would be unnecessary to put oil or paint on the parts of the plywood where there's no film (i'm using filmed birch plywood), like the "insides" of the holes in the centre brace? Would be pretty lame if it started sucking up moisture that way since working with filmed ply is a hassle...
 
#6,253
Diy bluetooth boombox

Hello to all:

I am attempting a 2 channel or 2.1 channel diy batt. Powered bluetooth boombox. I've been researching deep cycle lipo and nicad Batts to power the receiver. And I ran into an area of questions I can't answer without buying some gear or asking a forum full of experts. So I'll attemp the cheapest option first:

Links to setup #1-

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...oofer--264-831

https://www.parts-express.com/faital...-ohm--294-1103

JVC KD-X330BTS Digital media receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield.com

Links to setup #2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VR...s+t+car+stereo

JBL GT7-4 GT7 Series 4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

My questions are:

1. When both recievers draw energy how much in watts does each one consume?
2. If this is conditional solely on speaker power (and not the reciever's) I read that spl levels are between 86db to 9o db at 1 meter/1W. Does that mean that my speakers only draw 1W individually at said decimal level? If not, then estimates? Any insight in my endeavor would be greatly appreciated

Mike
 
#6,256
Hello Guys!

My Search "Boominator German Power" was not that succesful. I am about to build the Boominator according to LUTKEVELDs steps.
We are now listing all the required parts. Is it possible with the "usual boominator parts" to build in an extra switch to be able to run the device plugged into the german power grid?
I am asking because I have only seen the solar panels with the batteries (we want to build it this way,too. but with the OPTION of plugging it into a german power point ~ about 230V.).

I am looking forward to your replies!
 
#6,257
CrazyLegz87 said:
Hello Guys!

My Search "Boominator German Power" was not that succesful. I am about to build the Boominator according to LUTKEVELDs steps.
We are now listing all the required parts. Is it possible with the "usual boominator parts" to build in an extra switch to be able to run the device plugged into the german power grid?
I am asking because I have only seen the solar panels with the batteries (we want to build it this way,too. but with the OPTION of plugging it into a german power point ~ about 230V.).

I am looking forward to your replies!
Click to expand...

the cAMP has an input for using a 18-30V laptop charger (however they recommend using a 19.5V). Same input is used for solar panels though but that's pretty easily fixed
 
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