I would ratter start from original design simulation and change only driver parameter.
You can get the input data in the link below
https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/index.php?entry=high-end-low-end---diy-notes
You can get the input data in the link below
https://www.martinsson.cc/blog/index.php?entry=high-end-low-end---diy-notes
There are also Brian Steele's horn folding spreadsheets, he has one available for the THAM layout https://www.diysubwoofers.org/sheets/
This is easier than going straight into Hornresp from a drawing or your mind, esp. if you have no experience with the Software.
This is easier than going straight into Hornresp from a drawing or your mind, esp. if you have no experience with the Software.
You modeled a front loaded horn (FLH) or a BP4 with a positive flare port.
A tapped horn is a BP6S.
We BUILD parabolic enclosures so all segments should be PAR
This model is a more realistic version of your model.
You cannot have the closed chamber (16cm) depth less than the mounting depth (8.65in) of the driver.
I would actually build this enclosure for a vehicle with a big trunk (like my Crown Vic) or SUV/minivan.
I think this sub is rated for 1kw it may handle 1250w but not 5Kw lol if I went to use this how do I get a actual design “cut out sheet and a diagram how to make it” because I know nothing about nothing about these types of enclosures or the software I know my bass reflex and 6th orders though lol I literally haven’t got a clue how to use this software I’ll put in the same numbers as yours hopefully it would be tuned between 30-35hz to play abit lower then the normal tham15 cheers Ricky
If you are referring to my TH, then you can use any of the TH folds...MTH, THAM, SS, etc or a single fold.
I'm doing this on my phone, so bare with me.
The horn is 11 feet long or 132 inches.
The throat (S1) is 3" high x 16" wide.
The mouth (S4) is 12" high x 16 wide.
Single fold enclosure (just 7 pieces minus bracing):
132" / 2 segments = 66" internal height.
3" + 12" + 0.75" = 15.75" internal depth.
We know the internal width is 16".
The external dimensions are...
67.5" high x 17.5" wide x 16.5" deep.
The 16" wide CENTERED speaker board is 7.5" from the top piece and 12" from the mouth piece and 3" from the back piece mounted to the bottom piece.
Top and bottom = 16" wide x 15.75" deep.
Sides = 67.5" high × 15.75" deep.
Back = 66" high x 16" wide.
Front = 67.5" - 12.75" = 54.75" high x 17.5" wide for removable driver mounting.
Disregard the numbers.
This is how MY single fold TH would look.
I'm doing this on my phone, so bare with me.
The horn is 11 feet long or 132 inches.
The throat (S1) is 3" high x 16" wide.
The mouth (S4) is 12" high x 16 wide.
Single fold enclosure (just 7 pieces minus bracing):
132" / 2 segments = 66" internal height.
3" + 12" + 0.75" = 15.75" internal depth.
We know the internal width is 16".
The external dimensions are...
67.5" high x 17.5" wide x 16.5" deep.
The 16" wide CENTERED speaker board is 7.5" from the top piece and 12" from the mouth piece and 3" from the back piece mounted to the bottom piece.
Top and bottom = 16" wide x 15.75" deep.
Sides = 67.5" high × 15.75" deep.
Back = 66" high x 16" wide.
Front = 67.5" - 12.75" = 54.75" high x 17.5" wide for removable driver mounting.
Disregard the numbers.
This is how MY single fold TH would look.
A double fold TH is more complicated.
I prefer the alternate MTH style which is my home theater enclosure.
132" / 4 segments = 33" + 0.75" thick internal horizontal piece = 33.75" internal height.
12" mouth + 3" throat + 7.5" + 7.5" + (3 internal pieces x 0.75") = 32.25" internal depth.
We know the internal width is 16".
The external dimensions are...
35.25" high x 17.5" wide x 33.75" deep.
12" mouth - 3" throat = 9" / 4 segments = 2.25".
Segment 1 depths = 12" bottom to 9.75" top.
Segment 2 depths = 3" bottom to 5.25" top.
Segment 3 depths = 7.5" bottom to 5.25" top.
Segment 4 depths = 7.5" bottom to 9.75" top.
The 4 bottom depths SHOULD = 30".
The 4 bottom depths SHOULD = 30".
Follow the procedure below for the 4 internal pieces.
48" should be 35.25" high external.
30" should be 33.75" deep external.
22" should be 17.50" width external.
I prefer the alternate MTH style which is my home theater enclosure.
132" / 4 segments = 33" + 0.75" thick internal horizontal piece = 33.75" internal height.
12" mouth + 3" throat + 7.5" + 7.5" + (3 internal pieces x 0.75") = 32.25" internal depth.
We know the internal width is 16".
The external dimensions are...
35.25" high x 17.5" wide x 33.75" deep.
12" mouth - 3" throat = 9" / 4 segments = 2.25".
Segment 1 depths = 12" bottom to 9.75" top.
Segment 2 depths = 3" bottom to 5.25" top.
Segment 3 depths = 7.5" bottom to 5.25" top.
Segment 4 depths = 7.5" bottom to 9.75" top.
The 4 bottom depths SHOULD = 30".
The 4 bottom depths SHOULD = 30".
Follow the procedure below for the 4 internal pieces.
48" should be 35.25" high external.
30" should be 33.75" deep external.
22" should be 17.50" width external.
Hey would you have a cut out sheet of this I will make this saves me a headache of trying to figure out how to use some software I’ve never used before this looks like what I was after is this tuned 30- 35hz ish range thank you
Something like this.
As long as the internal enclosure volume is the same as the model and there is continuous expansion from the 3" throat to the 12" mouth, then you should be good on how you draw out the 4 inner pieces on 1 of the 2 side pieces that are 35.25" high x 33" deep.
As long as the internal enclosure volume is the same as the model and there is continuous expansion from the 3" throat to the 12" mouth, then you should be good on how you draw out the 4 inner pieces on 1 of the 2 side pieces that are 35.25" high x 33" deep.
Bro you need to learn CAD, it's easy, seeing you making this drawing using excel spreedsheet is too much hard work compared to CAD.