Thanks! The bracing ins't quite as good looking as yours but mine aren't going to be run at their absolute max power ratings so I'm not too worried about excessive cabinet flexing.
I will add a few braces in the mouth though before I paint them so they don't walk around
Hi Nosmoking I tried to set out your dimensions for the throat mods but there is something that does not add up. The pic shows a 138 dimension but this seems to be wrong. 😕 Can you recheck and add some extra dimensions if possible. I assume the 112 flat piece is positioned central to the baffle cut out?
Regards
Xoc1
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Hi Martin,
If the 112 and 118 are correct, and 112 is parallel to the baffle the value for 138 can be derived without much trouble.
If the 112 and 118 are correct, and 112 is parallel to the baffle the value for 138 can be derived without much trouble.
Thanks!
That looks good. I'll do that before I paint them. I didn't want to do it before testing so that in case I had to take out the driver it would be easy
The Vee brace was something I came up with after seeing a frequency based analysis of the speaker model.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/190635-th-18-flat-35hz-xoc1s-design.html#post2601928
The biggest fundamental resonance in the cabinet is the horn mouth. The Vee brace counteracts this. With careful positioning removing the driver is still practical.
Of course the alternative is to fit a metal grille. but the bracing is an option for people who are not worried about party animals, or have no metalwork facilities.
I enjoyed watching your video. It is quite humbling to see people from all over the planet build someting I drew up.
I hope you continue with your measurements of the speakers you built. You will need to measure at a greater distance than 1 metre as you are maxing out your db meter!
Each doubling of the distance will give you an extra 6db measuring headroom. 100db at 200 feet (60.96m) is 135.7 db@ 1m 😀
Regards Xoc1
I plan to take 10 meter measurements once all four are done and I figure out how to make my macbook use the Behringer sound card as input so I can use the SPL meter.
I would like to do this but I have yet to find a source that would be cheap enough to do all 4 for a reasonable source. Any ideas?
😀😀😀😀😀
That's about what I model on my computer at the power I was running so that makes me feel good haha
You can get metal grill material from PE
And you can bend it over a plywood form if you use some simple metal forming principles.
Clamp it firmly to the form, and whack it with a soft faced hammer, a dead blow hammer is better. You need to notch the corners so that everything meets up correctly but it is not really all that difficult.
You just finished making a rather complicated box, what yah afraid of now?
😉
And you can bend it over a plywood form if you use some simple metal forming principles.
Clamp it firmly to the form, and whack it with a soft faced hammer, a dead blow hammer is better. You need to notch the corners so that everything meets up correctly but it is not really all that difficult.
You just finished making a rather complicated box, what yah afraid of now?
😉
It's not the difficulty of it its the cost. If I remember right pe grills are like $50
Hi,
You are correct I swapped them,I used a templet to align screw holes when the side went on and that's were I got the measurements from 😀 I should have made a drawing,but impatient,lol.Sorry for the mix up!
NS
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I believe it was jbell who said that grill is quite flimsy. He recommended the Dayton square grill. This is what I'm using, along with acoustically transparent foam behind it to stop the 'ringing' of the grill and for an extra layer of drink-spill protection.