@themm
If you are building two Subs and buy one amp for this, consider the Ohm-version of the driver: The 4 Ohm Version will help to get amp-power for less money. Around 1,5kW RMS will do a nice job, more won`t hurt
Keep in mind that the datasheet-given power ratings of amps often are not comparable - there are "bass capable amps" out there and those having trouble delivering enough power, even when they are rated the same wattage in the datasheet. As toskulus said, some cheap switch-mode PSUs can´t keep up with heavy bass duties...
If you are building two Subs and buy one amp for this, consider the Ohm-version of the driver: The 4 Ohm Version will help to get amp-power for less money. Around 1,5kW RMS will do a nice job, more won`t hurt
Keep in mind that the datasheet-given power ratings of amps often are not comparable - there are "bass capable amps" out there and those having trouble delivering enough power, even when they are rated the same wattage in the datasheet. As toskulus said, some cheap switch-mode PSUs can´t keep up with heavy bass duties...I would support these notes too.
If you play bass heavy music with occasional clipping, 1400W is about right.
If you play something with better "program content" and are on the safe side, then 2500W might be it.
I´m currently running cheap T.Amp TA2400 MK-x for each 8Ohm DS speaker. They give 1800W RMS and 2250W peak, and it works great. Also these can be upgraded a little with two pairs of end-stage transistors. Running with this impedance, they should be indestructible. Also SW115 and more so DS115 series has higher average impedance, co many amps will not be that strained as with other conventional speakers.
If you play bass heavy music with occasional clipping, 1400W is about right.
If you play something with better "program content" and are on the safe side, then 2500W might be it.
I´m currently running cheap T.Amp TA2400 MK-x for each 8Ohm DS speaker. They give 1800W RMS and 2250W peak, and it works great. Also these can be upgraded a little with two pairs of end-stage transistors. Running with this impedance, they should be indestructible. Also SW115 and more so DS115 series has higher average impedance, co many amps will not be that strained as with other conventional speakers.
Thanks for the input!
Based on the fact that two TH18 are way better than one and my small budget i thought the following setup would be pretty decent:
2 x TH18 with 18LW2400 @ 4 Ohm (cheaper alternative for the 18sw115)
1 x t.amp E-1500 (1430W per Channel @ 4 Ohm)
Here is a link to the Amp:
the t.amp E-1500 – Thomann United States
This Setup should be good enough for private occasions?!
Based on the fact that two TH18 are way better than one and my small budget i thought the following setup would be pretty decent:
2 x TH18 with 18LW2400 @ 4 Ohm (cheaper alternative for the 18sw115)
1 x t.amp E-1500 (1430W per Channel @ 4 Ohm)
Here is a link to the Amp:
the t.amp E-1500 – Thomann United States
This Setup should be good enough for private occasions?!
I somehow doubt this can safely deliver 1400W into 4Ohm for both channels. My prediction is 1100W peak and 800W RMS. Just guessing. I would definitely save up some more, to not only give your speakers more juice but buying more proven and tested beefier amps, which will run more lightly. You do not want to burn the amp or even the speaker with it, if you are concerned about price/money, and with the cheaper decision, it looks like risk to me.
Agreed. The reason is not single though.
Cheaper production.
Proven design, so no money was spent on development.
They have all reasons to be cheaper than QSC RMX series, which is just newer iteration of the design, while maintaining like 95% of the reliability.
But that doesn´t make them particularly good and more trustworthy amps. They ARE cheap and you get what you pay for.
You either need to run them one impedance step above their specs (8Ohm), or you need something beefier.
If somebody around can do electronics and soldering, good bet for cheapest shot would be T.Amp TA2400 MK-X + tuning (cable management, adding two pairs of end stage transistors and setting new, little lower bias) on one 18SW115 in bridge mode. That will give you 1850W RMS and 2250W peak, and you can run the amplifier relatively lightly, no clipping.
Cheaper production.
Proven design, so no money was spent on development.
They have all reasons to be cheaper than QSC RMX series, which is just newer iteration of the design, while maintaining like 95% of the reliability.
But that doesn´t make them particularly good and more trustworthy amps. They ARE cheap and you get what you pay for.
You either need to run them one impedance step above their specs (8Ohm), or you need something beefier.
If somebody around can do electronics and soldering, good bet for cheapest shot would be T.Amp TA2400 MK-X + tuning (cable management, adding two pairs of end stage transistors and setting new, little lower bias) on one 18SW115 in bridge mode. That will give you 1850W RMS and 2250W peak, and you can run the amplifier relatively lightly, no clipping.
Hey guys,
i tried a new XOC-TH118 / Big Tham 18 design based on the outer dimensions of the MTH 46 VS. These MTH's loaded with the RCF LF18G401 were very punchy, kicky and loud but anything else than deep. So i added some more folds to mod it to a new Big Tham 18. Actual driver now is the B&C 18DS115-4 (a real monster in this cabinet!) driven by Proline 3000 so far. Good and impressive output at all, nice tone, punch and character.
Measurements were taken with the Umik-1 microphone (not that SPL-meter shown at the photo) with normal calibration file. As a comparison LF18G401 (8Ohms) is integrated in this REW screenshot also the Hornresp-models. We see that the predictions are very close to the measurements, nice to see.
Comparison between the two drivers: the G401 is more sensitive in the lower range but does not sound really good in this cabinet. With the DS115-4 things change literally. The stronger motor and way heavier cone do a fantastic job in this cabinet! Two of these are amazing, cannot imagine what 4 or more ot these can do ( or a bigger amp aswell).
Have to do more testings and video records to get an impression of these very nice subs!
Greetings from Germany,
Patrick
i tried a new XOC-TH118 / Big Tham 18 design based on the outer dimensions of the MTH 46 VS. These MTH's loaded with the RCF LF18G401 were very punchy, kicky and loud but anything else than deep. So i added some more folds to mod it to a new Big Tham 18. Actual driver now is the B&C 18DS115-4 (a real monster in this cabinet!) driven by Proline 3000 so far. Good and impressive output at all, nice tone, punch and character.
Measurements were taken with the Umik-1 microphone (not that SPL-meter shown at the photo) with normal calibration file. As a comparison LF18G401 (8Ohms) is integrated in this REW screenshot also the Hornresp-models. We see that the predictions are very close to the measurements, nice to see.
Comparison between the two drivers: the G401 is more sensitive in the lower range but does not sound really good in this cabinet. With the DS115-4 things change literally. The stronger motor and way heavier cone do a fantastic job in this cabinet! Two of these are amazing, cannot imagine what 4 or more ot these can do ( or a bigger amp aswell).
Have to do more testings and video records to get an impression of these very nice subs!
Greetings from Germany,
Patrick
Attachments
Hey Im looking to build myself 6 of these, can anyone pm me with the v2 designs please! Ive gone through so so many pages and I cannot find it! Im ready to buy all materials and tuck into my first builds! This box doesn't seem crazy at all the construct bravo to Xoc for all of this work!
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
Brief summary of the design: The Subwoofer DIY Page v1.1 - Projects : DIYAUdio Projects - The TH18
Roll your own:
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
(The BOXPLAN-SS workbook)
Roll your own:
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
(The BOXPLAN-SS workbook)