Thanks for the tips.
I use the crimp on terminals now at the speaker end.
However with these clip in terminals at the receiver, even the
standard speaker wire I use (18g?) is bent over several times to
make good contact. This is not the ideal setup. I've had the
end slip out just from moving the unit a bit.
Also I want to run it from speaker out the moutho an dover to the
receiver. That's about 16 ft.
I use the crimp on terminals now at the speaker end.
However with these clip in terminals at the receiver, even the
standard speaker wire I use (18g?) is bent over several times to
make good contact. This is not the ideal setup. I've had the
end slip out just from moving the unit a bit.
Also I want to run it from speaker out the moutho an dover to the
receiver. That's about 16 ft.
Solder your tiny wire to short pieces of whatever ga single copper conductor wire fits securely in your terminals.
hmmmm
Single conductor copper. I can see how that can get clamped by the tab but is there any flex in solid to get the rascal out?
Single conductor copper. I can see how that can get clamped by the tab but is there any flex in solid to get the rascal out?
Huh?! What do you need flex for? You make the adapters long enough to make them easy to grip and if you need to, you can shape them to whatever angle(s) is required to fit without shorting.
Ok.
I'll find some pulls from some old gear that's solid and practice inserting the wire and seeing if it comes back out easily. If these weren't all plastic doo-dads on the back I'd be less concerned that
something would break.
I'll find some pulls from some old gear that's solid and practice inserting the wire and seeing if it comes back out easily. If these weren't all plastic doo-dads on the back I'd be less concerned that
something would break.
FYI, the solid conductors in Romex house wire make great, cheap high current and/or long distance speaker cables, just rip off the sheath, omit the ground if supplied and twist the two conductors together with a drill, or in your case, adapters. If you don't having left from a home project you can usually get all you need for the taking at a local construction site.
TB BIB
Hello all,
I wanted to check with the community before the saw hits the wood, so to say. I got a great deal on some Tang Band W4-1052SD's. I realize these are not the greatest full range, but I believe they will suite my needs. What is proposed, and cleared by the other half, is to build four cabinets and stuff one in each corner.
The dimensions are a bit bothersome, though. From Godzilla's site:
Tangband 1052SA 4" full range
L = (Line length) 120"
Zdriver = Driver 24" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 38"^2
Using GM's math:
W4-1052SD
Fs 63
Vas 0.26
Qts 0.44
Line Length 106.861
Folded Height 53.431
Vb 1.863
Sm 60.266
Depth 9.232
Width 6.528
zdriver 23.189
a-b-c 4.616
Obviously these are a bit conflicting, can anyone give their opinion to help settle my inner battling.
Thanks everyone!
Hello all,
I wanted to check with the community before the saw hits the wood, so to say. I got a great deal on some Tang Band W4-1052SD's. I realize these are not the greatest full range, but I believe they will suite my needs. What is proposed, and cleared by the other half, is to build four cabinets and stuff one in each corner.
The dimensions are a bit bothersome, though. From Godzilla's site:
Tangband 1052SA 4" full range
L = (Line length) 120"
Zdriver = Driver 24" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 38"^2
Using GM's math:
W4-1052SD
Fs 63
Vas 0.26
Qts 0.44
Line Length 106.861
Folded Height 53.431
Vb 1.863
Sm 60.266
Depth 9.232
Width 6.528
zdriver 23.189
a-b-c 4.616
Obviously these are a bit conflicting, can anyone give their opinion to help settle my inner battling.
Thanks everyone!
GM said:
I'll look for some bulk in what they have at the hardware store. Yesterday I was a the big box place looking for Cat5 but all they
wanted to show me was the stiff stuff that gets buried in the ground.
Thanks for the tip.
Along those lines, I've successfully used Radio Shack 18g solid core hook up wire as speaker cable (twisted together). It's cheap. It has even been a Stereophile Recommended Component! It doesn't sound as good as my cross connected Belden 89259 coax (as per John Risch), but then, it costs about 1/10th as much and is considerably easier to make.
Bear in mind that the original adopters of Cat5 cable (Chris VenHaus, etc on the Audio Asylum cable forum a decade ago) all specified plenum grade Cat5 for it's teflon. It helps keep the capacitance down, which is especially imporant when you are using complex braids with many runs. Some, like me, also dislike the sound of PVC (I know, I know, don't even start). I use plenum grade CAT5 for all my internal hook up wire in components. You'll most likely have to mail order it, but it isn't expensive (though not as cheap as Rat Shack hook up wire or romex.)
pj
Bear in mind that the original adopters of Cat5 cable (Chris VenHaus, etc on the Audio Asylum cable forum a decade ago) all specified plenum grade Cat5 for it's teflon. It helps keep the capacitance down, which is especially imporant when you are using complex braids with many runs. Some, like me, also dislike the sound of PVC (I know, I know, don't even start). I use plenum grade CAT5 for all my internal hook up wire in components. You'll most likely have to mail order it, but it isn't expensive (though not as cheap as Rat Shack hook up wire or romex.)
pj
Hello
This is my first post to diyaudio.com. I live in Santiago, Chile. After careful reading of each and every post in this thread, I decided to follow suit and imported a couple of Fostex E206E drivers from Madisound USA. After some time were I learn to make new mistakes with wood and power tools, this is the output: my BIBs.
This is my first post to diyaudio.com. I live in Santiago, Chile. After careful reading of each and every post in this thread, I decided to follow suit and imported a couple of Fostex E206E drivers from Madisound USA. After some time were I learn to make new mistakes with wood and power tools, this is the output: my BIBs.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
flamberge said:
Great photography and a job well done. The setup looks ideal for BIBS.
What interior treatment did you use? And what are the source components?
Oh yes! Now that's what I like to see! Beautiful work (and photography)!
Details please -what build material, how did you damp them etc.?
Details please -what build material, how did you damp them etc.?
208 BIBs sounding fine!
OK, with 100+ hours on the 208/T90A BIBs I have done some serious listening now and report on sound quality.
In summary they have a big, spacious, effortless sound. The bass has freed up (probably more to go tho) and has great extension tho never sounding anything but totally under control. Mids and tops are detailed and extended - I have reduced the T90A cap from 1uf initially to .68uf and now .54uf (pair of Sprague VitaminQ PIO .27uf in //) and to my ears this is now sounding totally integrated. Big soundstage.
I am sure the efficiency would allow then to run off a couple of watts, certainly new much less power than the 168 BIBS. In fact they have ruined the overall gain structure of my system with loud listening being about 1pm on the pre. I may have to reduce the power amp gain.
Very pleased I took the leap and expense of buying/building these - thanks for the encouragement and help.
Another pic - they are 2metres high, to give some idea od scale the TV is a 55" screen.
OK, with 100+ hours on the 208/T90A BIBs I have done some serious listening now and report on sound quality.
In summary they have a big, spacious, effortless sound. The bass has freed up (probably more to go tho) and has great extension tho never sounding anything but totally under control. Mids and tops are detailed and extended - I have reduced the T90A cap from 1uf initially to .68uf and now .54uf (pair of Sprague VitaminQ PIO .27uf in //) and to my ears this is now sounding totally integrated. Big soundstage.
I am sure the efficiency would allow then to run off a couple of watts, certainly new much less power than the 168 BIBS. In fact they have ruined the overall gain structure of my system with loud listening being about 1pm on the pre. I may have to reduce the power amp gain.
Very pleased I took the leap and expense of buying/building these - thanks for the encouragement and help.
Another pic - they are 2metres high, to give some idea od scale the TV is a 55" screen.
Attachments
Suspension on the 208ESigma's supposed to take a while to loosen up -fairly big driver, doesn't need to work as hard to produce the LF as the smaller units in a pipe-horn, so a few more hours should allow things to improve still more.
Glad you like them. I'm jealous. Oh yes. 🙂
Glad you like them. I'm jealous. Oh yes. 🙂
Some top notch BIBs out there nowadays! They've become cult classics. I enjoyed mine this weekend with some Squeeze, The Who and Kansas... thru my laptop connected to my Cary tube gear.
Interestingly, the BIB-208 has a nice small footprint of 100in^2, even my little Axiom theater speakers are 99. Then you move "vertically." Also, if you use DEQ, you can straighten the high end out to well over 10KHz and well up, so with DEQ, the supertweeter is optional.
The FE208 is capable of jaw-dropping dynamics in a horn, and if you listen to orchestral music, these things could be downright dangerous, even with tiny 1 watt Darling amps as an example. Resynthesis that can HURT you, with a 1 watt amp, is my kinda stereo. I remember what the Cain BEN's sounded like in Denver, after- hours, after a whole lotta dwinks, and a whole lot of volume with Josh's 2 watt 45's, www.electronluv.com just amazing sound, listening to Britten's 'Variations on a Theme from Purcell: Young Person's Guide To The Orchestra' and also Eminem, shifting genre gears like this drove all the pointy-headed audiophools from the room. I will never forget that. FE208 in horns. The BIB's likely would be even krazier-good.
The FE208 is capable of jaw-dropping dynamics in a horn, and if you listen to orchestral music, these things could be downright dangerous, even with tiny 1 watt Darling amps as an example. Resynthesis that can HURT you, with a 1 watt amp, is my kinda stereo. I remember what the Cain BEN's sounded like in Denver, after- hours, after a whole lotta dwinks, and a whole lot of volume with Josh's 2 watt 45's, www.electronluv.com just amazing sound, listening to Britten's 'Variations on a Theme from Purcell: Young Person's Guide To The Orchestra' and also Eminem, shifting genre gears like this drove all the pointy-headed audiophools from the room. I will never forget that. FE208 in horns. The BIB's likely would be even krazier-good.
Hello....
after ca. 50 hours of playing good and loud music, my Monacor SPH60-BIB has a great, but too loud bass. What can I do, to get it a little muted?
after ca. 50 hours of playing good and loud music, my Monacor SPH60-BIB has a great, but too loud bass. What can I do, to get it a little muted?