Sounds good to me....combined with this one http://www.fountek.net/products_jp_30.htm
....looks good... and should sound great.
Could be a good project for next autumn...a two-way-BIB.
I have to think about that.
....looks good... and should sound great.
Could be a good project for next autumn...a two-way-BIB.
I have to think about that.
BIB PM2C ?
Scott, I have scoured your magical site over the last week, searching for info. on dims. for the lowther PM2C. My pair(refugees of an upgrade) are wasting away in a pair of old I.Bs and i have decided to resurrect them into a BIB if possible. alas I could not find any, for this model. So would you please spend some of your precious time and do the deed for me?
Lowthers figures are,
Fs 36Hz
Qs 0.291
QMs 4.128
Qts 0.272
Vas 62.25 Lts
Sd 0.021 Sq.M
No 3.5%
I am building a music room, which will be 8x4x2.75 h.with an open ceiling @ 40dgs approx.I am hoping that this angle will augment the bass in the right cabs.
As an afterthought, has anyone been bold enough to try the Tannoy 15 M.Golds in this configuration? I open baffled my pair after chasing Dark Stars and against all odds, they work for me! I use an EL34 SE Aria to drive them nicely. Thank you in advance, Graham.
Scott, I have scoured your magical site over the last week, searching for info. on dims. for the lowther PM2C. My pair(refugees of an upgrade) are wasting away in a pair of old I.Bs and i have decided to resurrect them into a BIB if possible. alas I could not find any, for this model. So would you please spend some of your precious time and do the deed for me?
Lowthers figures are,
Fs 36Hz
Qs 0.291
QMs 4.128
Qts 0.272
Vas 62.25 Lts
Sd 0.021 Sq.M
No 3.5%
I am building a music room, which will be 8x4x2.75 h.with an open ceiling @ 40dgs approx.I am hoping that this angle will augment the bass in the right cabs.
As an afterthought, has anyone been bold enough to try the Tannoy 15 M.Golds in this configuration? I open baffled my pair after chasing Dark Stars and against all odds, they work for me! I use an EL34 SE Aria to drive them nicely. Thank you in advance, Graham.
I'm thinking seriously to build a BIB,too.
To tell the truth I'm btw a BIB and a Metronome.
Which of the two have a lower end?
My room is too small 10ft*26ft and the speakers will be placed close to the corners. That's why I liked the BIB's.
But what is better an 8" driver or a smaller unit?
To tell the truth I'm btw a BIB and a Metronome.
Which of the two have a lower end?
My room is too small 10ft*26ft and the speakers will be placed close to the corners. That's why I liked the BIB's.
But what is better an 8" driver or a smaller unit?
Not y site, Jeff's -I've just done a few cabinets along with GM and an introduction (which I really should revise if I ever get time). Anyway, the PM6C should go into the DX2 box GM has up on the site quite happily. The claimed figures by Lowther are a fair way off from the reality unfortunately. 😉
The BIB will go lower, louder than a Metronome, at the expense of more ripple. Each has a different set of priorities, so it's horses for courses really. In your room, in a BIB, you should be OK with a 6 1/2in driver -either the Fostex FE168ESigma or the FE167E if you can't stretch to the Sigs, but an 8in unit will be fine too. The FE206E or FE207E should do the trick nicely...
If you want a Metronome, which is a mass-loaded design, I'd suggest going straight to an 8in driver as it's less efficient than the pipe-horns. The 207 or Hemp FR8, if you can find a pair.
The BIB will go lower, louder than a Metronome, at the expense of more ripple. Each has a different set of priorities, so it's horses for courses really. In your room, in a BIB, you should be OK with a 6 1/2in driver -either the Fostex FE168ESigma or the FE167E if you can't stretch to the Sigs, but an 8in unit will be fine too. The FE206E or FE207E should do the trick nicely...
If you want a Metronome, which is a mass-loaded design, I'd suggest going straight to an 8in driver as it's less efficient than the pipe-horns. The 207 or Hemp FR8, if you can find a pair.
thanks scottmoose,
I need it to be louder as I'm planning to drive it with a low watt SE amp. Say 2-3W (2A3 or 45) or 8W if I'll use 300B.
BIBs look interesting and easy to build.
Maybe I'll go with a 6.5in driver,BIB will be smaller too!
I need it to be louder as I'm planning to drive it with a low watt SE amp. Say 2-3W (2A3 or 45) or 8W if I'll use 300B.
BIBs look interesting and easy to build.
Maybe I'll go with a 6.5in driver,BIB will be smaller too!
resident said:
I have built both BIB and metronome, indeed BIB is the king of the base.
gychang
Thanks scott, I did not realise that my PM2s would use the same cabs. as DX2. Same series resistor, do you think? Any ideas about inside width and depth measurements, please, graham.
P.s. Do you think the 15"M.Golds could work? G.
P.s. Do you think the 15"M.Golds could work? G.
Resident
If you really wish to achieve a great final result, offering very wide bandwidth repro, and lots of sound, with a live venue feel on every tune you play, with flea amps, I would strongly suggest the Hemp8 and a BIB. Although I have not built one, I have built four BIB's, and know well the Hemp. If you built that one, used an active preamp with a 2A3 for example you will have all the power and glory, for ever and ever.... if I had the room and the inclination this is exactly what I would do.
The Hemp Monolith, with a good 2A3 and active preamp, the www.dact.com active linestage is a high end circuit for a pittance, and can easily be battery powered, there is your state of the art preamp for flea amps. This would make for an ultra cost effective, superior sound system. And www.diytube.com is about to release Shannon Parks' latest invention, a 6B4G PCB board designed for the very good, and very cost effective James transformers, complete with Front panel express CNC top plate sized for Welborne Labs hardwood chassis.
having said that, it would seem that the overall BIB champ is the Fostex FF165K. This offers a smaller footprint, and the resultant bass and overall dynamics and musical charm are nothing short of alchemy; gold from lead. just almost a joke as to how much you get for how much you invest. You could add on the Fostex tweeter horn later, if you felt it needed more "air."
I recently built a pair of BIB's for the FX120, and these things are True Music makers. These are the smaller variant yet, really a lovely size, but would need more juice than any flea amp could give. Folks, they sound amazing with a hotrod T amp. I am using vintage 1965 Sprague oilers for coupling caps with a 2020 board and battery power, lo esr bank of Panasonics ahead of the battery, and it is buttery smooth. Buttered lightning.
If you really wish to achieve a great final result, offering very wide bandwidth repro, and lots of sound, with a live venue feel on every tune you play, with flea amps, I would strongly suggest the Hemp8 and a BIB. Although I have not built one, I have built four BIB's, and know well the Hemp. If you built that one, used an active preamp with a 2A3 for example you will have all the power and glory, for ever and ever.... if I had the room and the inclination this is exactly what I would do.
The Hemp Monolith, with a good 2A3 and active preamp, the www.dact.com active linestage is a high end circuit for a pittance, and can easily be battery powered, there is your state of the art preamp for flea amps. This would make for an ultra cost effective, superior sound system. And www.diytube.com is about to release Shannon Parks' latest invention, a 6B4G PCB board designed for the very good, and very cost effective James transformers, complete with Front panel express CNC top plate sized for Welborne Labs hardwood chassis.
having said that, it would seem that the overall BIB champ is the Fostex FF165K. This offers a smaller footprint, and the resultant bass and overall dynamics and musical charm are nothing short of alchemy; gold from lead. just almost a joke as to how much you get for how much you invest. You could add on the Fostex tweeter horn later, if you felt it needed more "air."
I recently built a pair of BIB's for the FX120, and these things are True Music makers. These are the smaller variant yet, really a lovely size, but would need more juice than any flea amp could give. Folks, they sound amazing with a hotrod T amp. I am using vintage 1965 Sprague oilers for coupling caps with a 2020 board and battery power, lo esr bank of Panasonics ahead of the battery, and it is buttery smooth. Buttered lightning.
Hi!
Must ramble a bit🙂
Sun is shining, we had a nice walk in the city. People are smiling due to the nice weather, we are healthy and having a good time.
Dinner has been eaten with a nice wine from Mexico. Wife cleaning up after dinner, I listen to music after a Dominican cigar and sipping a singel malt whisky. (gender roles😉)
Listening to Eagle Eye Cherry and INXS, My mood is colouring my listening, but time to time, I get amazed by the sound of these incredible cheap Monacors in BIB's. So much that I'm not in a hurry to finish my new BIB's with Sonido's!
For sure, BIB's are not HIFI but d@%n fun to listen too.
Quote James Brown: I FEEL GOOD!!! And isn't that the purpose of the music!
Peace brothers🙂
Must ramble a bit🙂
Sun is shining, we had a nice walk in the city. People are smiling due to the nice weather, we are healthy and having a good time.
Dinner has been eaten with a nice wine from Mexico. Wife cleaning up after dinner, I listen to music after a Dominican cigar and sipping a singel malt whisky. (gender roles😉)
Listening to Eagle Eye Cherry and INXS, My mood is colouring my listening, but time to time, I get amazed by the sound of these incredible cheap Monacors in BIB's. So much that I'm not in a hurry to finish my new BIB's with Sonido's!
For sure, BIB's are not HIFI but d@%n fun to listen too.
Quote James Brown: I FEEL GOOD!!! And isn't that the purpose of the music!
Peace brothers🙂
Sounds like life sucks in the Czech Republic; no Cubanos. ..so sorry for you...
Which Monacors? We are beginning to see which stars shine the brightest in these things.
Which Monacors? We are beginning to see which stars shine the brightest in these things.
True enough. Music is what it's about.
Graham -yes, Tannoys will work, but it'd need to be big. About 8ft tall, 16ft line length Sl of ~ 300in^2. Q is low, which helps keep that down. Relatively. 😉 WxD dims are a ratio of 1:1.4142 ideally, so 12.5in wide x 17.75in deep + internal baffle thickness. Same resistance, or slightly under should do the job.
Graham -yes, Tannoys will work, but it'd need to be big. About 8ft tall, 16ft line length Sl of ~ 300in^2. Q is low, which helps keep that down. Relatively. 😉 WxD dims are a ratio of 1:1.4142 ideally, so 12.5in wide x 17.75in deep + internal baffle thickness. Same resistance, or slightly under should do the job.
Scott, much appreciated. the tannoys do not seem over the top, as I was contemplating The 300Lt reflex cabs for my new room anyway. If it happens, I shall post, as I think they could be awesome. Regards, graham.
Hi Dan!
I prefer to suck on Dommies than Cubies! So life actually sucks in Czech Rep!!!😀
Monacor SPH60X is the perpetrator!
Cheers
Peter
I prefer to suck on Dommies than Cubies! So life actually sucks in Czech Rep!!!😀
Monacor SPH60X is the perpetrator!
Cheers
Peter
Thanks Dave...
for posting the drawing of your iBIBk FE12Xe. One point I thought I would make is regarding the feet. I am a firm (ok yes intended) believer in using three feet. This is the easiest way to level a speaker and gives the most secure footing there is. I have found over the years that all the speakers that I have set up with three feet have always sounded best with two feet at the front of the cabinet and one in the middle at the back. I think that the baffle energy is better distributed to the floor this way. That said for folks with crazy stiff speaker cables some times complain they are not as stable if the cable is heavy and pulls on the cabinet. I have never had such troubles but I thought it worth mentioning.
As always great drawings and thanks for all that you post. Regards Moray James.
for posting the drawing of your iBIBk FE12Xe. One point I thought I would make is regarding the feet. I am a firm (ok yes intended) believer in using three feet. This is the easiest way to level a speaker and gives the most secure footing there is. I have found over the years that all the speakers that I have set up with three feet have always sounded best with two feet at the front of the cabinet and one in the middle at the back. I think that the baffle energy is better distributed to the floor this way. That said for folks with crazy stiff speaker cables some times complain they are not as stable if the cable is heavy and pulls on the cabinet. I have never had such troubles but I thought it worth mentioning.
As always great drawings and thanks for all that you post. Regards Moray James.
Re: Thanks Dave...
I've not used spikes before... the scheme with the single one on the front came from a bit i read about Triangles use of spikes. They wanted as much mass as possible (speakers in the baffle contribute) to load thru the single spike at the front. The argument made sense so i adopted it for these... but when the opportunity comes i'll try it both ways (it will probably be in the form of the FE127e bipoles we built -- they have not yet had modded drivers in them, so it will be interesting to listen to them again.
dave
moray james said:
I've not used spikes before... the scheme with the single one on the front came from a bit i read about Triangles use of spikes. They wanted as much mass as possible (speakers in the baffle contribute) to load thru the single spike at the front. The argument made sense so i adopted it for these... but when the opportunity comes i'll try it both ways (it will probably be in the form of the FE127e bipoles we built -- they have not yet had modded drivers in them, so it will be interesting to listen to them again.
dave
BIB for FF165K
Ping Scott..
According to BIB calc, on BIB pages, L= 136in for FF165K, or Fs~50Hz.
Why not use L~170in for Fs~40Hz (as on Fostex data sheet), and what the dims would look like with these parameters.🙄
Thanks in advance.
p.s. There is one mistake on Fostex BIB page :
BIB for FE165K - means BIB for FF165K, or I'm wrong.
Ping Scott..
According to BIB calc, on BIB pages, L= 136in for FF165K, or Fs~50Hz.
Why not use L~170in for Fs~40Hz (as on Fostex data sheet), and what the dims would look like with these parameters.🙄
Thanks in advance.
p.s. There is one mistake on Fostex BIB page :
BIB for FE165K - means BIB for FF165K, or I'm wrong.
Quite right -it should read FF. Jeff's pretty busy at the moment, but I'll mention it to him when he has chance to play again.
I shortened the cabinet on the site deliberately, simply because it's a smaller driver, and an alternative to the more common 166/7 so I kept box size similar. A 168in pathlength is the ~ideal for the 40Hz Fs. Ultimately, the dimensions suggested on zillaspeak are only starting points for your own exploration, just as Terry Cain said about his cabinets. There's a lot that can be done with these simple pipe-horns. 😉
Regards
Scott
I shortened the cabinet on the site deliberately, simply because it's a smaller driver, and an alternative to the more common 166/7 so I kept box size similar. A 168in pathlength is the ~ideal for the 40Hz Fs. Ultimately, the dimensions suggested on zillaspeak are only starting points for your own exploration, just as Terry Cain said about his cabinets. There's a lot that can be done with these simple pipe-horns. 😉
Regards
Scott
Which is the best dimensions for the width of the cabinet,for an 6,5" and for an 8" driver?
And how can I calculate the front round baffle? Are there any standard dimensions for this extra baffle?
I'd like to calculate the dimensions for a BIB using FE168Esigma,FE207E and HempFR8.
I'm btw those three drivers. Which do you prefer?
I like Fostex but this Hemp looks very interesting!
If I'll have the money I'd like to build both the Hemp8 and the FE168Esigma! 🙄
And how can I calculate the front round baffle? Are there any standard dimensions for this extra baffle?
I'd like to calculate the dimensions for a BIB using FE168Esigma,FE207E and HempFR8.
I'm btw those three drivers. Which do you prefer?
I like Fostex but this Hemp looks very interesting!
If I'll have the money I'd like to build both the Hemp8 and the FE168Esigma! 🙄