TDA1549 - Marantz CD48

Hi Pete

If I follow your lead on putting bigger lytics underneath and remove the originals around the 5v supplies is there much to be gained ?

Also, the main 5v regulator....how much in the way of current is it working with generally speaking ?
The new regulator that's on it's way is good for 1 amp.
I've checked the data sheets on all the main receiving chips and if i'm correct by adding them together there's a lot less than an amp being drawn ( I think ) particularly now the op amp and the headphones are removed.
More so when I power the dac on it's own too.

Is a 1 amp reg OK to drop in where your super ray reg is ?

Hi,

Don't know if there's a great deal to be gained, just a different way of doing it I guess, I never did it the way that you did so can't really advise. Having said that more and better capacitance is generally better.

I'm pretty sure 1amp will be more than enough but the only way to be sure is to measure the current out from the reg with a meter. Make sure you do it while using skip functions etc. as they may cause peaks.

Regards

Pete
 
erm.....too technical !!

I'll just put it in, press the button and close my eyes.
That sounds like something by Swiss Tony from the Fast Show....hahaha

Anyway that's my test method normally.
It's all collectively less than half an amp - I'm sure it'll be fine

7.5v traff is here too...here we go again
I'd better just check Ebay and make sure there's another machine:bomb:
 
Well Pete, I've loaded one of these into my player as the main regulator and it has no right to be this good for £15.00 delivered.
Specs below :

# Input Voltage Range: +3 V to +36 V, suggested input voltage 6V - 9V

# Output Voltage Noise: 4.17 μVRMS (10 Hz, 100 kHz)

# Power-Supply Ripple Rejection: 82 dB (100 Hz) ≥ 55 dB (10 Hz, 10 MHz)

# Output Current: 1 A : Heat Sink required for high current operations

# Dropout Voltage: 307 mV at 1 A

# Pin Out same as 7805 TO-220

# Small Footprint 2.5 x 1.6 cm

It's been talked about before on the other Marantz thread.
It got a bit of a pasting by some of the clever ones just reading the specs ( of course :rolleyes: ) but a member who actually bought and used it said it was very good too.
I can tell you it's dropped and solidifed the bass another step, is revealing stuff that was kind of in the background before ( much clearer ) and vocals have taken on a better realism.
Leading edges of instruments and textures have jumped to another level.
Absolutely stuff's the 7805 and my 317 attempts too.

Best £15 I've spent.
Just ordered 2 more.

The 48 is in my main system now and has my Arcam Alpha's pants down - and I mean that.

Still to power the dac chip independently....4 fast/soft diodes, 3 caps and 3 resistors to do yet !!

All done by Saturday and then the lid goes on before I wreck it.

I'll let it bed in a while, then split the rails to the dac and practice fitting a cheap clock to the other one while all that is going on - that was a good idea P ;)

Think the Flea and Tent XO is the best way to go ?
Did yours improve things - like an immediately noticeable gain ?

Andrew
 

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Sounds like you're a real convert now :D

Like I said before I never got a new clock to work with this player but if you're going to do it I guess the flea + tent xo is the best vfm option.

Alternative is to just buy a new clock board but good ones of those seem to be getting expensive nowadays. I see cheapish ones on ebay but I've not heard much good comment on those (not heard much bad comment either).

For the dac I got a big improvement from the seperate reg but remember I was going from the basic (fed from the onboard 7805) to the flea. If you've replaced the 7805 with a superreg already you may not notice as much of an improvement. Realistically most of the improvement that you noticed with the new reg probably is down to the dac working better.

If you're bought another superreg just rig that up taking the normal feed from the onboard supply capcto the input and feed that to the dac (it's just a question of lifting a link and wiring the reg output in instead iirc) if it gives you more improvement then it may be worth going the whole hog and using a flea like me, if you don't get much of an improvement then just reverse it out.

Glad you're happy with it as is though, just remember the boards are very fragile :(

I ordered some Vishay MKP1839 to use as output caps on mine. They're meant to be good vfm, we'll see.

Pete
 
TekDevice

This will deffo take you there Pete

The site has some other intersting stuff, dacs and buffers etc.
Post took about 7 days and was free too !

On the regs...I can't afford nor justify £50 super-duper regs and I sure as hell can't make them like this Tekdevice item either !
It's an exceptional sounding compromise - and the noise figures can't be argued with either - they are in the chip mfg's data sheet.

Cheers
 
Hi

Do you mean the attached circuit Pete ?

Have you looked at the Tekdevice site ?
Buying one ?

The dac power supply is ready in a crude kind of way - but ready it is.
It's at 5.05v all night so it's going in tomorrow.
If it works and improves things ( and there's no reason why it won't ) I'll polish it up wiring wise and make it permanent.

I'll post pics of the ' lash up ' too if all is well.
 

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No, I meant just use the tek reg to connect directly to the +5v of the xo and connect the clock out via the small cap.

I had a look at the tek, wasn't sure what the chip it used was though.
Doubt I'll buy one though, I enjoy matching leds too much :)

Put my new output caps on the flying leads yesterday, they were a bit disappointing at first but got a lot better very quickly. Sounding very good now.

Pete
 
Fantastic - like better than the op amp ?
I didn't listen much with the cheap op amp in or the rest of the bits tbh.

I've done the ps to the dac and the word is scale, drive and grunt.

It's all a bit of a mess because I couldn't wait so there's trimming and twisting of wire, some bypass caps, ferrite beads to attach, better fixings and stuff but as a ' lash up ' it sounds astonishing.

I wonder now if splitting the dac rails will bring worthwhile and noticeable gains...I don't mind having a go if it'll be a big jump.

Loads of little things to do but it's certainly time to leave it and enjoy for a while - plus I've the clock experiments to do that you suggested
I can only imagine what that'll be like if it works....if it works :D
 

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Nice work Andrew :)

I don't have a CD48 but I've modified a few CD players and I've found schottky 11DQ10 diodes to be excellent on the rectifier and I prefer them with any existing snubber caps removed. I've also found Silmic II's to be incredibly good when used after after voltage regs to supply op amps.

Have fun.
 
Thanks Mike

I don't really deserve any of that as this is now main board number 3 :eek:

The solder pads and tracks are very weak and apparently the Marantz CD5000 with the same dac chip is even worse according to Pete, who has helped me through this build.

The OP Amps are no longer in use or even on the board anymore ( binned ) but I do like Silmics generally and still have some smaller value Lytics to change - might give them a try - thanks for the reminder.

The sound isn't even remotely similar to how it was and I'm quite delighted with it.
All the ' in yer face ' stuff and bass lightness has gone - in it's place is real texture, drive and grunt.
Sound stage width, height and real ' in room ' piano, drums and vocals
are quite amazing.

My modded original Arcam Alpha with several transformers plus properly multi - clocked is not performing like this.

That said it was obvious from the off that the 1549 had something special going on and that Lucasz Fikus of the Lampizator website was spot on.

As soon as I took out the op amp and went direct from dac chip to rca's via coupling caps I knew what I wanted to do.
Then Chivvyp ( Pete ) turned up with an excellent list of vital component changes and his experiences and there was no going back.

I'd describe the machine as originally a bit of a show off but one which has evolved into a real polished performer

The TDA 1549 dac chip is amazing - period

Thanks
 
No, I meant just use the tek reg to connect directly to the +5v of the xo and connect the clock out via the small cap.

I had a look at the tek, wasn't sure what the chip it used was though.
Doubt I'll buy one though, I enjoy matching leds too much :)

Put my new output caps on the flying leads yesterday, they were a bit disappointing at first but got a lot better very quickly. Sounding very good now.

Pete

This seems perfect Pete but can you expand on this so I can get a picture in my head....or draw a rough picture maybe ?

Sorry:eek:
 
Right, decision made.....the dac chip is getting it all.
I've got 2 more audio gd regulators laying here doing nowt so they're going in to power analog and digital stages.
If it can sound like this now it'll be mega with the kitchen sink thrown in too. What can go wrong ?
I can buy another and waste another £25 plus 4 hours work...lol

I looked at the 63/67/KI mods thread recently and after 9 years and loads of super regs, expensive clocks, 5 metres of mini screened coax plus 5 traffs et al and they're still at it - exaggeration perhaps - but I guess you
know where I'm going.
That tells me it's a flawed dog that needs everything doing...when you fix this you've also got fix that and then....more stuff

They could have bought a Naim CD 3 or .5 with their investment and mucked around doing mods with the few hundred £ they had spare.

Opinion...that's all.
I'm sure there are at least 3 satisfied 63 owners with no further mods needed....haha.

My point is I've modded and used a TDA 1541a based machine with a separate tx/ps for saa7220b, separate tx/ps for the saa7310 and separate tx/ps for the ram chips, a clock with it's own tx and then clocked the 7220 and 7310 separately.
I then clocked the TDA chip with 11.289 and 5.64 and did the DEM mod.
Replaced every cap, used sepc everywhere it was necessary and maxed out on total uf too.
300va of traff power in total and ultimately it sounds very very nice but still not like a Marantz CD94 or the cheap Krell integrated CD player I know so well - which is annoying.

Enter cheap, crappy Marantz CD48....bit of a joke really but.....
Eye popping midrange, clean as a whistle hf plus decay of instruments impossibly long and with no meaningful bass to report initially.

Hello ?

After my recent series of mods it's right there with my reference 1541a machine but using only two traffs ( both sh..) and a direct dac out trick.

It does more in micro detail and realism already and makes my hair stand up - the bass is developing into the lower realms VERY nicely and I believe there's a fair bit more to eek out of it

Going mad I'm not and sober I most certainly am - work tomorrow of course

I'm 6/7 fun labour hours down and £150 lighter ( 3 players included )
and I wish I'd known about this chip and player years ago
 
Thanks to Lukasz Fikus too for my discovery incidentally - the man who didn't pontificate but whom just got on with it and tried it out..... tried them all out actually

We really need more musicians with soldering skills on this site.
Engineers with no musical talent do not have all the answers that real ears need ! ;)
 
This seems perfect Pete but can you expand on this so I can get a picture in my head....or draw a rough picture maybe ?

Sorry:eek:

The xo is just a canned clock that needs a supply voltage to work. In the schematic you posted above everything to the left of the XO is just a cleanish voltage regulator. So you can replace it all with just your tek regulator (or whatever you have to hand) feeding the V+ pin of the xo. You will still need an earth connection for the XO and the 47u cap on the clock out.

Regards

Pete
 
Pete, are you saying I only need a good 5v supply, an earth connection and an xo plus a coupling cap to the xo ' in ' on the board ?
Can it really be so simple to make ready ?

I'm almost ready with the additional bits to power the dac chip with 3 x 5v feeds.
The single independent power supply that's running the whole dac chip currently is sounding fantastic so I'm really looking forward to hearing what happens to the sound with 2 more shoe - horned in.

Once that's done it's the clock to do - the one thing that makes me nervous.
Not because it's hard to mechanically fit and wire it - I just don't understand which bits to lift or remove.
This is where real knowledge counts and I'm a bit limited in that department.
I've looked at the service manual over and over again and I'm still not happy so naturally it's been left to almost last.
It's quite astonishing there's no pics and reports on the internet of successfully clocked 48's or Philips players.
Wonder why that is ?

In a week the full triple ps will be done and I'll post pics of the spaghetti job.....mess or not :)