Tantalum Resistors...What's So Different ?.

[sumotan]

Not necessarily, that's a comparison of tantalum types to carbon (which are known for being very warm and muddy) - the tants are less warm than carbons but are definitely warmer than metal film types.

I found a good balance by using Shinkoh up stream & AB carbon on the next stage. I've tried Riken but overall AB sounds better in 2 watt versions.
Strange too that Shinkoh 2 watt sounds better than 1 watt.

 

[Simon1972]

Perhaps you dont like the sound of the lowest noise, most temperature and voltage stable resistors..

 

[tonescout]

Hi - I am new to the forum, and also looking at resistors for sound quality whilst swapping some out in my old audio research SP8......trying to locate a significant hiss on 1 channel and a small buzz on the other......
I would just get Shinkoh based on all the feedback from everyone on the forum of the sound, but alas they are not available in all values anymore.
My starting point is to see if the anode resistors (300k) are to blame and then I will move onto cathode and finally grid / thoughts welcome. The old 300k are wirewound US milspec, but not really available anymore and also slighly magnetic.

Thanks,

 

[astouffer]

Perhaps you dont like the sound of the lowest noise, most temperature and voltage stable resistors..

I doubt you could tell any difference unless you had these resistors in ultra high gain stages, say 65 dB.

 

[tonescout]

it's 26 dB for line stage and 60 dB for phono.

The hiss I am chasing is there without any gain turned up and irrespective of the selection of input.

Would the grid 1k resistors be a location where there is any audible change?

 

[astouffer]

Swap the tubes and see if the noise follows. If a resistor goes bad it tends to generate tons of noise.

 

[tonescout]

thanks for the tip. I have tried a complete set of valves and swapped a lot of these around. I have checked the power amp and it is 1 channel of the pre amp, completely irrespective of input selection or gain. Volume wheel turned to zero and selector switched rotated around it makes no difference. The circuit uses each valve to drive Left and right channel on each side of the dual triode (2x 12AX7 and 1x 6DJ8) for both the line and the phono. I have swapped one 300k anode on a 12AX7 on the problem channel and as you assume it made no difference at all.
It may not be related but another strange thing that does not feel right is touching the glass of the first 12AX7 creates a buzz, which reduces if I also touch the chassis. All other valves are inert to any touch....weird.

Thanks