Spirou? I used to read those when I was a kid!
Yes, I would let the drivers breathe by giving them a little extra space. Those little 3 inchers are not very deep, once mounted on a thick baffle, there's not a lot of breathing room.
Yes, I would let the drivers breathe by giving them a little extra space. Those little 3 inchers are not very deep, once mounted on a thick baffle, there's not a lot of breathing room.
Spirou? I used to read those when I was a kid!
Yes, I would let the drivers breathe by giving them a little extra space. Those little 3 inchers are not very deep, once mounted on a thick baffle, there's not a lot of breathing room.
So did you actually build this? If so how were you able to chamfer such a skinny region? There is no way I can do a 45° chamfer.
Perhaps it would be easier to start with a baffle that wasn't so thick. Certainly not necessary w/ these drivers.
If the backside is so "skinny" it's hard to chamfer, I wouldn't think the chamfer was necessary. You could also chamfer with a file or sanding block. That should enable any amount of chamfer you want.
If the backside is so "skinny" it's hard to chamfer, I wouldn't think the chamfer was necessary. You could also chamfer with a file or sanding block. That should enable any amount of chamfer you want.
Perhaps it would be easier to start with a baffle that wasn't so thick. Certainly not necessary w/ these drivers.
If the backside is so "skinny" it's hard to chamfer, I wouldn't think the chamfer was necessary. You could also chamfer with a file or sanding block. That should enable any amount of chamfer you want.
The original plans call for 12 mm MDF but didn't mention chamfering. If people don't typically chamfer at 12 mm then I won't at 15mm since its only a 3mm difference.
Yes, I used a small rounded bit to chamfer the driver's opening. Go slowly and you should be able to do it well enough.
@ perceval
Hi perceval,
I listened to your recordings and am pretty impressed by what you've achieved thus far. Can you give us your listening impressions of your present speaker placement as opposed to placing them on the floor please?
Hi perceval,
I listened to your recordings and am pretty impressed by what you've achieved thus far. Can you give us your listening impressions of your present speaker placement as opposed to placing them on the floor please?
musiklava,
Thanks!
I'll let you know. I listened to my recordings again and figured there was too much differences between them. I used 2 different amps, and the mic was not in the same position each time. Although my recordings were just to give an example of the possibilities!
The first recording, the mic was placed at the other end of the room, about 3m away from the front wall. The second recording, the mic was placed at less than half that distance. It's easy to hear the room reflections in the first recording.
As you can see from the picture I posted, the speakers are on the front wall, set on top of what I would call bedroom dressers. I didn't try with them placed on the floor yet. Didn't want to move everything around! I'll do that this week, just for fun. I'll be able to tell you about the differences.
I placed the speakers on the dressers because I wanted to have the drivers at ear level, but I am finding that the highs disperse very widely so it may be fine, even if the drivers are not at ear level. I'll find out and tell you.
Next month or so, I'll try with 5" drivers. If it is anything like the Cornu, where bigger is better, than I should be quite pleased with a larger version! The 3" version is already so nice! 🙂
Thanks!
I'll let you know. I listened to my recordings again and figured there was too much differences between them. I used 2 different amps, and the mic was not in the same position each time. Although my recordings were just to give an example of the possibilities!
The first recording, the mic was placed at the other end of the room, about 3m away from the front wall. The second recording, the mic was placed at less than half that distance. It's easy to hear the room reflections in the first recording.
As you can see from the picture I posted, the speakers are on the front wall, set on top of what I would call bedroom dressers. I didn't try with them placed on the floor yet. Didn't want to move everything around! I'll do that this week, just for fun. I'll be able to tell you about the differences.
I placed the speakers on the dressers because I wanted to have the drivers at ear level, but I am finding that the highs disperse very widely so it may be fine, even if the drivers are not at ear level. I'll find out and tell you.
Next month or so, I'll try with 5" drivers. If it is anything like the Cornu, where bigger is better, than I should be quite pleased with a larger version! The 3" version is already so nice! 🙂
Shopping around for drivers on the local market and found a couple of things.
Didin't know them, but these Aucharm (made here in Taiwan) seem to have good reviews. QTS is a bit on the low side but should be enough, I think.
They seem to sell for $70 to $100 elsewhere in the world, but I can get a pair locally for $50.
Didin't know them, but these Aucharm (made here in Taiwan) seem to have good reviews. QTS is a bit on the low side but should be enough, I think.
They seem to sell for $70 to $100 elsewhere in the world, but I can get a pair locally for $50.
Attachments
I'll let you know. I listened to my recordings again and figured there was too much differences between them. I used 2 different amps, and the mic was not in the same position each time. Although my recordings were just to give an example of the possibilities!
The first recording, the mic was placed at the other end of the room, about 3m away from the front wall. The second recording, the mic was placed at less than half that distance. It's easy to hear the room reflections in the first recording.
As you can see from the picture I posted, the speakers are on the front wall, set on top of what I would call bedroom dressers. I didn't try with them placed on the floor yet. Didn't want to move everything around! I'll do that this week, just for fun. I'll be able to tell you about the differences.
I placed the speakers on the dressers because I wanted to have the drivers at ear level, but I am finding that the highs disperse very widely so it may be fine, even if the drivers are not at ear level. I'll find out and tell you.
Thanks perceval. I'll look forward to hearing your comparisons some time in future.
I completed one Tabaq cabinet yesterday and did a fitting just to see that things were done alright. I hope to complete the second cabinet by this weekend and get the Tabaqs running. I'll post images of the bare bones finish after I finish.
Next month or so, I'll try with 5" drivers. If it is anything like the Cornu, where bigger is better, than I should be quite pleased with a larger version! The 3" version is already so nice! 🙂
Those Cornu speakers will be a hard act to beat after this. I'm breaking-in my Founteks in the larger Cornus (21") that I'd built. These will be mounted in the Tabaqs. Judging from what I heard from your clips I hope I get a good listening experience in the Tabaqs, moving on directly from the Cornus. Unfortunately I don't have enough wall space for larger sized Cornus! 🙁
Can you give a link where you found them speakers. ThanksAlso, that same seller seems to have a version of TABAQ folded for sale....
That's a lot of stuffing...
Here is my build

That's an Aucharm?
How's the sound?
The images I posted are from a local seller on an auction like eBay, here in Taiwan.
Here's a link to the auction in Taiwan, but I'm afraid you'll need to exchange in Chinese, as I'm afraid the seller doesn't understand English well.
ÅS¤Ñ©ç½æ-¥xÆW NO.1 ©ç½æºô¯¸
How's the sound?
The images I posted are from a local seller on an auction like eBay, here in Taiwan.
Here's a link to the auction in Taiwan, but I'm afraid you'll need to exchange in Chinese, as I'm afraid the seller doesn't understand English well.
ÅS¤Ñ©ç½æ-¥xÆW NO.1 ©ç½æºô¯¸
Someone should try RS100-4 or RS100P-4 in Tabaq
If you are interested in the Aucharm (or sometimes sold as "Air") have a look at Dayton RS100-4 or RS100P-4 (paper cone). They are extremely well built, have a cast metal frame, a nice motor, solid aluminum phase plug, vented spider, low distortion, huge 4mm xmax, built-in foam gasket, a thin bezel that doesn't require fancy rebating to mount, and best of all a Qts of 0.53 - perfect for deep bass on a MLTL (or the XKi 6th order band pass alignment). They are well priced at $29 (aluminum) and $33 (paper) and easy to get in the US through PE. I have not built a Tabaq with them but imagine they might be one of the best performers given the Qts and large xmax (which you won't find unless you go up to a Sd=50cm2 class driver that costs more). Of note, I have not seen anyone use the paper cone version except myself and I have to say I really enjoy their sound. It doesn't have the sparkle above 14kHz, but for most music, I think it sounds wonderful.
Dayton Audio RS100P-4 4" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
Here are some photos to give you an idea of build quality for a $33.
Here is a sound clip of one from an XKi - note the deep clean bass.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/461177d1422071148-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-xki-rs100p-4-rp-01.zip
Shopping around for drivers on the local market and found a couple of things.
Didin't know them, but these Aucharm (made here in Taiwan) seem to have good reviews. QTS is a bit on the low side but should be enough, I think.
They seem to sell for $70 to $100 elsewhere in the world, but I can get a pair locally for $50.
If you are interested in the Aucharm (or sometimes sold as "Air") have a look at Dayton RS100-4 or RS100P-4 (paper cone). They are extremely well built, have a cast metal frame, a nice motor, solid aluminum phase plug, vented spider, low distortion, huge 4mm xmax, built-in foam gasket, a thin bezel that doesn't require fancy rebating to mount, and best of all a Qts of 0.53 - perfect for deep bass on a MLTL (or the XKi 6th order band pass alignment). They are well priced at $29 (aluminum) and $33 (paper) and easy to get in the US through PE. I have not built a Tabaq with them but imagine they might be one of the best performers given the Qts and large xmax (which you won't find unless you go up to a Sd=50cm2 class driver that costs more). Of note, I have not seen anyone use the paper cone version except myself and I have to say I really enjoy their sound. It doesn't have the sparkle above 14kHz, but for most music, I think it sounds wonderful.
Dayton Audio RS100P-4 4" Reference Paper Woofer 4 Ohm
Here are some photos to give you an idea of build quality for a $33.



Here is a sound clip of one from an XKi - note the deep clean bass.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/461177d1422071148-xki-xs-ab-initio-karlson-6th-order-bandpass-xki-rs100p-4-rp-01.zip
Attachments
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That Dayton sounds very nice in your XKi... great job!
That'd be great... unfortunately, I looked them up and Dayton is not distributed in Taiwan. Importing taxes are not so bad, but the shipping costs from the USA is the killer that usually doubles the price of a driver.
That'd be great... unfortunately, I looked them up and Dayton is not distributed in Taiwan. Importing taxes are not so bad, but the shipping costs from the USA is the killer that usually doubles the price of a driver.
That Dayton sounds very nice in your XKi... great job!
That'd be great... unfortunately, I looked them up and Dayton is not distributed in Taiwan. Importing taxes are not so bad, but the shipping costs from the USA is the killer that usually doubles the price of a driver.
Perceval,
Hey thanks! I like your Tabaq sound clips too. Your Tabaq might have some more bass with this unit with 4mm xmax.
You need to find the OEM source - it is in Taiwan (your neck of the woods). Actually, most drivers, even ones branded "Made in Italy" by the big names start out in China or Taiwan. They do something to them (perhaps install a sticker 🙂 in Italy that then qualifies as "Made in Italy".
Thanks! I may try to put the same driver in a Karlsonator to find out the differences.
I've been scouting the net, but I just can't find where Dayton is made...mostly! it's all pretty vague mentioning China and Taiwan... but nothing solid.
I'll keep looking.
I've been scouting the net, but I just can't find where Dayton is made...mostly! it's all pretty vague mentioning China and Taiwan... but nothing solid.
I'll keep looking.
You need to find the OEM source - it is in Taiwan (your neck of the woods). Actually, most drivers, even ones branded "Made in Italy" by the big names start out in China or Taiwan. They do something to them (perhaps install a sticker 🙂 in Italy that then qualifies as "Made in Italy".

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