Hi JH
Please find the dimensions for the foldet version of TABAQ. You can place the driver in the middle of the baffle, and place the driver 5 cm higher up in the not-foldet version. I have done simulations on this alternate location of the driver (MJK´s models) and this will work just fine.
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ BOX Cabinet build.pdf
Hi from
Bjorn
Please find the dimensions for the foldet version of TABAQ. You can place the driver in the middle of the baffle, and place the driver 5 cm higher up in the not-foldet version. I have done simulations on this alternate location of the driver (MJK´s models) and this will work just fine.
http://www.coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ BOX Cabinet build.pdf
Hi from
Bjorn
Thanks Bjorn.
I found the plans in another post. But, these look better.
I took your advice and have some Vifa 3.5 speakers. I hope they are the right model - TC9FD18-08.
Should the same baffle step be used on 3.5 as the 4 inches?
Plans are converted to inches and the wood will be bought this week. Thanks for a great set of plans!
JH
I found the plans in another post. But, these look better.
I took your advice and have some Vifa 3.5 speakers. I hope they are the right model - TC9FD18-08.
Should the same baffle step be used on 3.5 as the 4 inches?
Plans are converted to inches and the wood will be bought this week. Thanks for a great set of plans!
JH
I know I am being catty here and I apologize. Why did you convert the plans to Imperial? Just pull out your metric rule! Stanley makes a nice 5m/16ft tape, and a 15" metal ruler can be had at Lowes among others that has mm one edge.
I draw all of my plans in Imperial, but I don't hesitate to use metric plans.
Bob
Bjorn,
Don't bother with the simulations. The 10-04s have already been ordered from Parts Express. The other Vifas will go in some BIBs that I promised a friend.
Bob,
Not catty at all. I just ordered a metric tape from Amazon. Lowes and Home Depot had nothing in-store.
I should have seen the absurdity in having to double convert:
1st- from metrics to hundredths of an inch.
2nd- from hundredths to 16ths of an inch. (Didn't even want to try 32nds!)
I guess that since my materials came in Imperial thicknesses, I thought that Imperial would be the way to go.
Thanks for the thoughts.
JH
Don't bother with the simulations. The 10-04s have already been ordered from Parts Express. The other Vifas will go in some BIBs that I promised a friend.
Bob,
Not catty at all. I just ordered a metric tape from Amazon. Lowes and Home Depot had nothing in-store.
I should have seen the absurdity in having to double convert:
1st- from metrics to hundredths of an inch.
2nd- from hundredths to 16ths of an inch. (Didn't even want to try 32nds!)
I guess that since my materials came in Imperial thicknesses, I thought that Imperial would be the way to go.
Thanks for the thoughts.
JH
If you're using plywood, you may find that metric is actually closer to the actual dimension (i.e. 3/4: in the US is actually 23/32).
23/32" is 18mm.
Apologists for Imperial measure seem to forget that American manufacturers have been forced to make things in metric to sell them internationally. Have you tried to work on a car lately with only an SAE tool set?
Bob
Last edited:
I couldn't agree with you more about metric in general - now if international plywood manufacturers could get their act /QC together and manufacture with consistent thickness not only within the 40 sheets in a lift, but even across the span of a single sheet that'd be helpful . We go through 1000s of sheets of all types of material in a year, and I've personally measured variances of over .5mm within a lift and over .25mm along the length of a single 5x5ft sheet of Russian BB
Might not seem like a big deal until you try to machine for dadoes with a hand held router and guide rail, or stacked dado blades on table saw - you need to get creative with your shims and lot of test cuts to get a "just snug enough" fit.
The UK has been metric for all of my life, although imperial was what i was brought up with, prior to school. Occasionally when i service a US machine the hunt begins for 5/8 or 3/8 Whitworth screws, or measure in thou' or mils, using a um micrometer. At that sort of manufacturing tolerance, despite my somewhat bleary eyed reminisence for the old measures, it becomes immensely frustrating working without microns. For one thing im glad, after years of AUS soap torture, i thank my lucky stars that we still use miles. 'Kays' just never sounded right to me.
Speaking of tolerances...
I have found that my woodworking skills are sketchy at best. Boxes not square... edges not meeting... sanding and more sanding... filling and more filling.
Cabinet designs and wood in general seem to be very forgiving.
Have you ever constructed a cabinet where a 1/16 of an inch or 2 mm. made an audible difference in the sound?
What should be acceptable tolerances?
JH
I have found that my woodworking skills are sketchy at best. Boxes not square... edges not meeting... sanding and more sanding... filling and more filling.
Cabinet designs and wood in general seem to be very forgiving.
Have you ever constructed a cabinet where a 1/16 of an inch or 2 mm. made an audible difference in the sound?
What should be acceptable tolerances?
JH
Not making audible differences, just making the finishing process more difficult than it already is. Experienced builders often make the pieces a bit large so that finished boxes can be trimmed with a router to get "perfect" joints.
Actual driver parameters vary over a range and room effects overwhelm any impacts of minor precision issues in box volumes or baffle effects.
Nevertheless, a 1/16 inch is a very visible error, at least to an experienced cabinet maker. My tolerance is 1/32". That's the limit of adjustment accuracy of my current saw.
Actual driver parameters vary over a range and room effects overwhelm any impacts of minor precision issues in box volumes or baffle effects.
Nevertheless, a 1/16 inch is a very visible error, at least to an experienced cabinet maker. My tolerance is 1/32". That's the limit of adjustment accuracy of my current saw.
My shop is my garage. Everything is portable. I retired from one job 5 years ago and moved to a different area. Gave up most of my big woodworking gear since the new place didn't have space.
I'm using a portable Porter-Cable saw which folds up and move against a wall. However, I've decided I've had enough frustration over accurate cuts. I've looked at rearranging / eliminating some things so that I can accommodate the 110v Sawstop cabinet saw. Will have less excuses when that's in the shop.
Thanks for listening.
I'm using a portable Porter-Cable saw which folds up and move against a wall. However, I've decided I've had enough frustration over accurate cuts. I've looked at rearranging / eliminating some things so that I can accommodate the 110v Sawstop cabinet saw. Will have less excuses when that's in the shop.
Thanks for listening.
Thanks Fast,
Would like to see your shop. What I'm using is the table and miter saws in a middle school shop classroom. Not sure if maintenance or calibrations have occurred in years.
But hey, at the end of the day there are no fingers on the floor!
JH
Could one or two of these drivers be used in the TABAQ:
FaitalPRO - Professional Loudspeakers Made in Italy
I have some laying around and would like to put them to use.
Appreciate all the help I can get!
FaitalPRO - Professional Loudspeakers Made in Italy
I have some laying around and would like to put them to use.
Appreciate all the help I can get!