Your project gave me an idea. The side panels could be attached to perpendicular screens at the rear that are covered with the same material as the back wall. That way, you don't notice them.
How much did those drivers cost? Looks like an affordable project with satisfying results.
How much did those drivers cost? Looks like an affordable project with satisfying results.
Three post in a row, you're going to get the impression I like your project...😀
I'm in the process of reworking my open baffle line array and was going to position my side panels similar to yours. The only change I plan on is to add a ten degree angle to the sides--sweep them outwards a little bit towards the rear.
Do you have any trouble with resonance between the sides?
I'm in the process of reworking my open baffle line array and was going to position my side panels similar to yours. The only change I plan on is to add a ten degree angle to the sides--sweep them outwards a little bit towards the rear.
Do you have any trouble with resonance between the sides?
Hi, carpenter
The drivers are as follow:
B4N for the woofer about 21.00CDN each
Mid is DMNA about 40.00CDN
Tweeter is TN-25 about 9.99 CDN
These mids are really transparent due to the fact that they are run full range in the upper frequencies.
With the wood, wire I used Transparent speaker wire all around and connectors and x-over parts, I used Solen caps and metal film resistors, the overall cost ran at around 1,300.00 CDN which I think is pretty cheap considering the amazing results
cheers
The drivers are as follow:
B4N for the woofer about 21.00CDN each
Mid is DMNA about 40.00CDN
Tweeter is TN-25 about 9.99 CDN
These mids are really transparent due to the fact that they are run full range in the upper frequencies.
With the wood, wire I used Transparent speaker wire all around and connectors and x-over parts, I used Solen caps and metal film resistors, the overall cost ran at around 1,300.00 CDN which I think is pretty cheap considering the amazing results
cheers
As for as demanding more bass, using a RS sound meter i have a bass response to approx 125 hz, so i set my subs to 125hz so i have lots of bass.
cheers
cheers
Center Speaker/Stand
Carpenter,
I just completed a center speaker that also acts as a TV stand using the same driver in a reflex box this time.
One thing I noticed, either the drivers or the x-over parts take a very long time to settle. It took over 2 months to break in everything.
as far as vibration on the panels, no vibration at all, the cabinet is dead to the touch
Cheers
Carpenter,
I just completed a center speaker that also acts as a TV stand using the same driver in a reflex box this time.
One thing I noticed, either the drivers or the x-over parts take a very long time to settle. It took over 2 months to break in everything.
as far as vibration on the panels, no vibration at all, the cabinet is dead to the touch
Cheers
Attachments
You have a sub...
Well, then that just about covers everything.
I'll have to remember to use a sub in my line-array system.
Good job, Dan!🙂
Well, then that just about covers everything.
I'll have to remember to use a sub in my line-array system.
Good job, Dan!🙂
pipe speakers
larger images here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30364621&id=1419623854&ref=nf
larger images here:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30364621&id=1419623854&ref=nf
Ooooooh. They look so good with a tan.
Did you ever hear the one about the gang of elbows, Wye's, and San-Ts that presided over at the House... uh, I think they were looking for the speaker?
ta-dum...
So, how do they sound?
Did you ever hear the one about the gang of elbows, Wye's, and San-Ts that presided over at the House... uh, I think they were looking for the speaker?
ta-dum...
So, how do they sound?
I have to say that this thread has provided me with so much inspiration. It's the most rewarding hobby that I can think of. I have built and rebuilt many speakers for the last 10 or so years and I finally have something that I am proud to show off. Anyway, my wife now actually regards this hobby as legitimate.
The top portion is Zaph's sr71. Originally, I was going to adapt it to an MLTL and started building it as such. That is how I arrived at the floor standing variation that I have now. It was a good idea, but after thinking about it I didn't want an external sub if I didn't have to have one. By using a sealed enclosure for the sr71 in the top portion I was able to achieve a system q of about .65 and still have 1 cu. ft. left over on the bottom portion. I had two Dayton TIT280C-4 10" subs in separate enclosures that really breath well into 1 cu. ft. sealed so the match was natural. Besides, it cut down on boxes in the living room which drastically upped the WAF.
The SR71 portion is powered by a Marantz SR7002 receiver and the subs are run in stereo crossed and EQ'd through a Behringer DCX2496 and powered by a Stewart World 600. After much listening and tweaking in the low end, I am very happy with the sound. The SR71 is an excellent design and I recommend it to anyone and the Dayton's provide a HUGE and tight low end impact in a small enclosure. But, like any other properly implemented sub, they need a controller, so they are not for the faint of heart.
The wood graining is an oil glaze. My father in law helped me with that.
The top portion is Zaph's sr71. Originally, I was going to adapt it to an MLTL and started building it as such. That is how I arrived at the floor standing variation that I have now. It was a good idea, but after thinking about it I didn't want an external sub if I didn't have to have one. By using a sealed enclosure for the sr71 in the top portion I was able to achieve a system q of about .65 and still have 1 cu. ft. left over on the bottom portion. I had two Dayton TIT280C-4 10" subs in separate enclosures that really breath well into 1 cu. ft. sealed so the match was natural. Besides, it cut down on boxes in the living room which drastically upped the WAF.
The SR71 portion is powered by a Marantz SR7002 receiver and the subs are run in stereo crossed and EQ'd through a Behringer DCX2496 and powered by a Stewart World 600. After much listening and tweaking in the low end, I am very happy with the sound. The SR71 is an excellent design and I recommend it to anyone and the Dayton's provide a HUGE and tight low end impact in a small enclosure. But, like any other properly implemented sub, they need a controller, so they are not for the faint of heart.
The wood graining is an oil glaze. My father in law helped me with that.
Attachments
Very Nice
Hi Netcastle,
I know what you mean this is a great hobby.
I love the 2 color sheme, they look great. Grear job,
Happy listening
Hi Netcastle,
I know what you mean this is a great hobby.
I love the 2 color sheme, they look great. Grear job,
Happy listening
NOt at all
(post moved here by mod)
I think it is fantastic to see you post pic of these little beauties
🙂 , 😀
Allow me to post the following,
http://vincent.brient.free.fr/main.htm
Now this guy built some other fantastic horn but for some reason He seemed to have taken them out.
Or maybe it was another French man I am thinking about???
😕
Alain
(post moved here by mod)
I think it is fantastic to see you post pic of these little beauties
🙂 , 😀
Allow me to post the following,
http://vincent.brient.free.fr/main.htm
Now this guy built some other fantastic horn but for some reason He seemed to have taken them out.
Or maybe it was another French man I am thinking about???
😕
Alain
inspiration
Very nice designs here.
Very inspiring as well.
Thanks for share! I'm new here, I'm taking a while to learn from as many pots as i can read, LOL... Thanks guys.
Very nice designs here.
Very inspiring as well.
Thanks for share! I'm new here, I'm taking a while to learn from as many pots as i can read, LOL... Thanks guys.
Here's my actual setup...
Hi,
my contribution:
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/Horns/horn_apogee.jpg
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/Horns/horns.jpg
D37 inside:
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/dsc00166.jpg
I reduced pressure chamber to the minimum by stuffing very firm. I also build the enclosure more wide (31 cm) than the original plans
Preamp DIY with Phonoclone MC pre and 24 dB linkwitz xover inside.
Remote control for volume and source select.
DA also DIY (Crystall chip with output xformers)
Tube (Ella diy) for all about 800 Hz and Vincent SP-331 for the rest.
Still thinking how to attach the tractix horns on the speaker cabinets.
Now, they just lay on top, no mounting construction yet.
I like hi-efficiency speakers, sounds kind of effortless.
Only bad, my preamp has a little bit noise and hiss.
Guess I'll replace all cables with shielded ones.
Apogess are not used at the moment.
Hi,
my contribution:
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/Horns/horn_apogee.jpg
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/Horns/horns.jpg
D37 inside:
http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab87/olafzen/dsc00166.jpg
I reduced pressure chamber to the minimum by stuffing very firm. I also build the enclosure more wide (31 cm) than the original plans
Preamp DIY with Phonoclone MC pre and 24 dB linkwitz xover inside.
Remote control for volume and source select.
DA also DIY (Crystall chip with output xformers)
Tube (Ella diy) for all about 800 Hz and Vincent SP-331 for the rest.
Still thinking how to attach the tractix horns on the speaker cabinets.
Now, they just lay on top, no mounting construction yet.
I like hi-efficiency speakers, sounds kind of effortless.
Only bad, my preamp has a little bit noise and hiss.
Guess I'll replace all cables with shielded ones.
Apogess are not used at the moment.
Re: Here's my actual setup...
If you wish, go to my website: www.inlowsound.com and check out how I made a mount for my tractrix horn in the DIY horn section.
taotao said:
If you wish, go to my website: www.inlowsound.com and check out how I made a mount for my tractrix horn in the DIY horn section.