Hi Colescuttle,
Welcome to a Symasym thread. There are three that I know of. There is one on troubleshooting and the original thread also. You are more than welcome to ask questions.
My opinion is that you should attempt to build the 5.3 on Mike's and Pavel's web pages. There is an awful lot of knowledge on these. They do tend to go together without too much trouble. They sound very good.
My advice would be to avoid ceramic capacitors, use mica, polypropylene or polystyrene (sensitive to heat when soldering).
No need to head your posts with “DUMMY WARNING!”. I hope this is a positive experience for you.
-Chris 😉
Welcome to a Symasym thread. There are three that I know of. There is one on troubleshooting and the original thread also. You are more than welcome to ask questions.
My opinion is that you should attempt to build the 5.3 on Mike's and Pavel's web pages. There is an awful lot of knowledge on these. They do tend to go together without too much trouble. They sound very good.
My advice would be to avoid ceramic capacitors, use mica, polypropylene or polystyrene (sensitive to heat when soldering).
No need to head your posts with “DUMMY WARNING!”. I hope this is a positive experience for you.
-Chris 😉
Yup, go for the 5.3. It's tried and tested with lots of satisfied customers. If I can build it, just about anyone can! 😉
Thanks.
I appreciate the welcome. In fact, Pinkmouse, I think it was your post on the chip amp list that first got me interested in the sym-a-sym. I hope you don't come to rue the day.
George
I appreciate the welcome. In fact, Pinkmouse, I think it was your post on the chip amp list that first got me interested in the sym-a-sym. I hope you don't come to rue the day.
George
😀
-Chris 😉
pinkmouse is a rue-ler with new threads. 🙄I hope you don't come to rue the day.
-Chris 😉
jaycee said:Two reasons.
One is that the acid can etch under the pads. This can lead to the pads coming off when you heat them up to solder them. Admittedly, this is only likely if you leave it in the acid too long.
Two, and the more importan one, is that if you don't drill exactly where the hole is etched, you end up with a hole, and part of the pad with no copper on to attach to. If you leave the pad filled, then the hole is wherever you drill it, so if you're a bit off, it wont affect solderability.
Eagle comes with a nice ULP called "drill aid". It generates a seperate Layer with pads filling the original drill holes, but leaving a very small (adjustable) hole. Set to 0,3 mm (default), it gives a perfect drill centering without any danger. Won't live without this any more.
Keep lurking on your thread guys
I'm so temted to build this Symasym 5.3 but I already have too many amps😀 It looks a nice design
I'm so temted to build this Symasym 5.3 but I already have too many amps😀 It looks a nice design
Hi t.,
Actually, I built some only to use for some in wall speakers.
They turned out better than I thought and now I'm experimenting with them, as many other people are. It's a surprising little amplifier. Once I build more I will install them in the intended application.
-Chris
Actually, I built some only to use for some in wall speakers.
They turned out better than I thought and now I'm experimenting with them, as many other people are. It's a surprising little amplifier. Once I build more I will install them in the intended application.
-Chris
Re: Thanks.
George, I have a personal motto: "Regret nothing". You learn from everything, even if it goes horribly wrong.
As Oscar Wilde said, " One should try everything in life once, apart from incest and folk dancing". 😉
Colescuttle said:I I hope you don't come to rue the day.
George, I have a personal motto: "Regret nothing". You learn from everything, even if it goes horribly wrong.
As Oscar Wilde said, " One should try everything in life once, apart from incest and folk dancing". 😉
anatech said:Hi t.,
Actually, I built some only to use for some in wall speakers.
They turned out better than I thought and now I'm experimenting with them, as many other people are. It's a surprising little amplifier. Once I build more I will install them in the intended application.
-Chris
Thanks Chris
Its just when you have a pile of amps already you think is it worth building one more incase this is better🙂 If I have the parts I may just give it a go anyway
Re: Re: Thanks.
"Folk dancing" ain't so bad when you are with the right women. 😉 I think it depends on your roots.
BTW, where is the "pink" version of the Sym Higher Power PCB? It looked like a reality just a few post past?
Shawn.
pinkmouse said:
George, I have a personal motto: "Regret nothing". You learn from everything, even if it goes horribly wrong.
"Folk dancing" ain't so bad when you are with the right women. 😉 I think it depends on your roots.
BTW, where is the "pink" version of the Sym Higher Power PCB? It looked like a reality just a few post past?
Shawn.
Re: Re: Re: Thanks.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1127821#post1127821
😉
TomWaits said:BTW, where is the "pink" version of the Sym Higher Power PCB? It looked like a reality just a few post past?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1127821#post1127821
😉
Question for MikeB (DUMMY WARNING).
Hi, Mike:
I have various value tantalum resistors left over from chip amp projects. Might anything be gained by using a tant in a "critical" position in the 5.3?
Thanks.
George
Hi, Mike:
I have various value tantalum resistors left over from chip amp projects. Might anything be gained by using a tant in a "critical" position in the 5.3?
Thanks.
George
Personally, I'd build it "stock" to start, then once it's working well you can tweak to your heart's content.
Hi George,
I avoid tantalums like the plague. Use electrolytics for filtering. There are positions on the board for film caps for bypassing. Use film or mica for anything in the signal path except the feedback to ground connection. It's bypassed as well.
Tantalums are tiny little time bombs, and they sound bad anyway. Give them to someone you don't like!
-Chris
I avoid tantalums like the plague. Use electrolytics for filtering. There are positions on the board for film caps for bypassing. Use film or mica for anything in the signal path except the feedback to ground connection. It's bypassed as well.
Tantalums are tiny little time bombs, and they sound bad anyway. Give them to someone you don't like!

-Chris
Chris, i guess he meant tantalum-resistors. 😉
George, i have no idea about the quality of these, but you should follow ALs (pinkmouse, eg pinkybear😀) suggestion, and start with normal metalfilm resistors, and tweak afterwards.
Mike
George, i have no idea about the quality of these, but you should follow ALs (pinkmouse, eg pinkybear😀) suggestion, and start with normal metalfilm resistors, and tweak afterwards.
Mike
Hi Mike,
Re-reading George's post, I find that I have experienced repercussions from posting while not under the influence of enough caffeine.
You needed the laugh, right? 😀
-Chris
Edit: I agree with you and Al.
Re-reading George's post, I find that I have experienced repercussions from posting while not under the influence of enough caffeine.
You needed the laugh, right? 😀
-Chris
Edit: I agree with you and Al.
anatech said:
You needed the laugh, right? 😀
Couldnt resist like always.

I have a rule: Do not post/talk BEFORE having drunk 2 cups of coffee!
Mike
Hi Mike,
Then you wouldn't have any fun!
If you want a real laugh, you should see what happens on the bench before proper coffee absorption has occurred!
*
* No Symasyms were injured in the above study.
-Chris
Then you wouldn't have any fun!
If you want a real laugh, you should see what happens on the bench before proper coffee absorption has occurred!

* No Symasyms were injured in the above study.
-Chris
Toshiba 2SC4793?
Does anyone know of an alternate source for these, or happen to have any spares? They're on backorder at Digikey until June.
George
Does anyone know of an alternate source for these, or happen to have any spares? They're on backorder at Digikey until June.
George
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