Did you check the signal path? What I'm trying to say is that you need tracking the signal to point where it disapare...
Hi Woody, I just checked. (great I am learning new things here) I could follow the signal through the input caps to the output of R5 and R6. So until they got to the chip. After the chip I have some 2 volt dc to the coils and buffer caps. (without powering the amp through the 12 volts input). What do I check next? Are there more checks? Or do I organize a burial ceremony? Thanks, Aad
Well,from my point of view,it's very difficult to say something smart 🙂
I have never seen Arjen's board ,and didn't look topology ,etc.
You will have to find schematics and some info. I'm SURE 🙂 someone with this board will help you ,someone who done modifications and completly understand topology of that board.
My advice - buy Sure board,it's cheap, fast delivery,and you have huge amount of informations ( many many mods,schematics,pics,etc)
Wish you luck,and Merry X-mass to you and to all DIYaudio members !
I have never seen Arjen's board ,and didn't look topology ,etc.
You will have to find schematics and some info. I'm SURE 🙂 someone with this board will help you ,someone who done modifications and completly understand topology of that board.
My advice - buy Sure board,it's cheap, fast delivery,and you have huge amount of informations ( many many mods,schematics,pics,etc)
Wish you luck,and Merry X-mass to you and to all DIYaudio members !
Arjen's board
Aad,
I have 4 units of Arjen's board and guessed I have been lucky as none of them pose any problem to me. On a particular board, I have even replaced the entire SMDs and stock discrete capacitors with better grade discrete components from Farnell. The TA2024 seems very hardy to me; if you feed it with 17V DC power, it would shut down automatically and not get burnt unless you accidentally reverse the DC power input altogether.
From your description, it appears to me that your TA2024 chip is not completely dead and the board may be salvaged but I may not have the expertise to assist you. Try powering up the board as usual and use a multimeter to check after each point to zoom down the culprit(s) of failing capacitor/SMD. Arjen's board is actually simplified from Tripath's evaluation board, schematics enclosed herewith:
Have luck in your trouble shooting and wishing all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Aad,
I have 4 units of Arjen's board and guessed I have been lucky as none of them pose any problem to me. On a particular board, I have even replaced the entire SMDs and stock discrete capacitors with better grade discrete components from Farnell. The TA2024 seems very hardy to me; if you feed it with 17V DC power, it would shut down automatically and not get burnt unless you accidentally reverse the DC power input altogether.
From your description, it appears to me that your TA2024 chip is not completely dead and the board may be salvaged but I may not have the expertise to assist you. Try powering up the board as usual and use a multimeter to check after each point to zoom down the culprit(s) of failing capacitor/SMD. Arjen's board is actually simplified from Tripath's evaluation board, schematics enclosed herewith:
Have luck in your trouble shooting and wishing all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
Thanks for the scheme Y.C.. Santa brought me a new multimeter so I'll check the board again in one of the coming days. Thanks for helping. Aad
I sneaked out and did some basic testing. I played a c.d. from my c.d. player and could trace the signal to the TA2024 IC. The TA2024 IC has 13,5V power. Output1 on IC has 6mV and Output2 30mV. Line Out2 on the board has around 19 mV and Line Out1 around 6mV and is reversed. I have to do some more searching and testing but to keep the peace I have to get back to my family now.🙂
Hi Aad,
Sorry, this won't help you much but I had a Trends TA-10.1 T-amp that lost it's left channel one day for no reason after having worked flawlessly for some weeks. There was no reason for this that I could point to. It then worked the following day for a short time, then stopped never to return. For memory, it slowly came back to operation that one time in a similar fashion to the way yours returned. I then returned to the room a little while later to find it dead again.
Trends replaced it, but I never asked or found out what the problem was.
Maybe the rare TA2024 can just be/develope a fault for no particular reason.
regards,
Simon
Sorry, this won't help you much but I had a Trends TA-10.1 T-amp that lost it's left channel one day for no reason after having worked flawlessly for some weeks. There was no reason for this that I could point to. It then worked the following day for a short time, then stopped never to return. For memory, it slowly came back to operation that one time in a similar fashion to the way yours returned. I then returned to the room a little while later to find it dead again.
Trends replaced it, but I never asked or found out what the problem was.
Maybe the rare TA2024 can just be/develope a fault for no particular reason.
regards,
Simon
Ouuups:
My actual project, active crossover and two T-amps in one enclosure, is showing a problem I did not expect:
A VERY VERY loud and VERY sharp pop some seconds after powering off.
I will never attach my speakers this way.
What happens?
The psu for the t-amps has a 22000uF cap wich is running the t-amps many seconds after powering off.
But the psu for the crossover goes down more quickly. A small pop from the crossover is then fully amplified through the still running t-amps.
I will try a bleeder in parallel to the 22000uF. If this should not work, I must insert some relais, grounding the output from the xover when unpowered.
Another solution could be a 22000uF for the xover psu...
Why did I not try a breadboard setup first
Franz
/Edit
I just inserted a bleeder in parallel to the 22000uF and it works 🙂
Uses 0.7 watt or about 38mA at 18VDC.
My actual project, active crossover and two T-amps in one enclosure, is showing a problem I did not expect:
A VERY VERY loud and VERY sharp pop some seconds after powering off.
I will never attach my speakers this way.
What happens?
The psu for the t-amps has a 22000uF cap wich is running the t-amps many seconds after powering off.
But the psu for the crossover goes down more quickly. A small pop from the crossover is then fully amplified through the still running t-amps.
I will try a bleeder in parallel to the 22000uF. If this should not work, I must insert some relais, grounding the output from the xover when unpowered.
Another solution could be a 22000uF for the xover psu...
Why did I not try a breadboard setup first
Franz
/Edit
I just inserted a bleeder in parallel to the 22000uF and it works 🙂
Uses 0.7 watt or about 38mA at 18VDC.
New amp coming soon
Hi,
Not that I wanrt to hijack this thread but this is a about the Sureelectronics amp PCB. I talked to them via e-mail and they confirmed that they now have a 50W/ch amp that will be ready for Intl sales, they have sold it locally and all went well so expect something new from them soon. Maybe someone local could buy some and sell them back to us, hint, hint 😉
Regards,
Eric
Hi,
Not that I wanrt to hijack this thread but this is a about the Sureelectronics amp PCB. I talked to them via e-mail and they confirmed that they now have a 50W/ch amp that will be ready for Intl sales, they have sold it locally and all went well so expect something new from them soon. Maybe someone local could buy some and sell them back to us, hint, hint 😉
Regards,
Eric
50 watt Class D amp
Dispite the Nice build up with all the connectors onboard, i think the buffer caps are small on this board and the power at low THD levels not too high. i want to play now with the TA2022 and see how good i can get the sound.
they did make the board look very nice doh, neat build up.
Dispite the Nice build up with all the connectors onboard, i think the buffer caps are small on this board and the power at low THD levels not too high. i want to play now with the TA2022 and see how good i can get the sound.
they did make the board look very nice doh, neat build up.
Yes, it looks quite nice this new board. But I definitely don't need this power.
Reading this news, I just remembered there is a mute pin on the chip and even a mute connector on the TA2024 board. 😎
So, I will use this mute function to solve the pop problem instead of the bleeder resistor.
Just apply in the moment of switch off 5V to the mute pin from the remaining charge of the big cap by a relay.
This gives me the chance, to apply a delayed power up by a simple NE555 circuit, avoiding heavy pops from input devices during powering up.
Franz
Reading this news, I just remembered there is a mute pin on the chip and even a mute connector on the TA2024 board. 😎
So, I will use this mute function to solve the pop problem instead of the bleeder resistor.
Just apply in the moment of switch off 5V to the mute pin from the remaining charge of the big cap by a relay.
This gives me the chance, to apply a delayed power up by a simple NE555 circuit, avoiding heavy pops from input devices during powering up.
Franz
TA2022
Ive got one running now,
Its working and amplifiying well, but needs better input caps and bigger buffercaps i also want the rectifier included and it still has the power on/off pop in the sound, so ive got quite allot to fix.
i need to re-design and give it to the makers, this costs atleast another month.
price depends on components used but will hoover aroun 35-40 Euro
Power is around 55 Watts at 8 Ohms and resonable THD value
and 100 watts max at 4 Ohms and 10% THD.
ill put it on the marketplace when its done.
Ive got one running now,
Its working and amplifiying well, but needs better input caps and bigger buffercaps i also want the rectifier included and it still has the power on/off pop in the sound, so ive got quite allot to fix.
i need to re-design and give it to the makers, this costs atleast another month.
price depends on components used but will hoover aroun 35-40 Euro
Power is around 55 Watts at 8 Ohms and resonable THD value
and 100 watts max at 4 Ohms and 10% THD.
ill put it on the marketplace when its done.
2022
Sounds great!!
How about the efficiency and more important the stand-by wattage?
Thanks
Peter
Sounds great!!
How about the efficiency and more important the stand-by wattage?
Thanks
Peter
TA2022
Hey hallo, AAD
the TA2022 has the following properties at low THD rates,
0.015% THD+N @ 70W 4Ù
0.015% THD+N @ 45W 8Ù
the efficiancy of the IC is above 80%
92% @ 88W 8Ù
87% @ 125W 4Ù
so it looks like a very viable IC that has the Juice to make more affordable speakers sound good.
Hey hallo, AAD
the TA2022 has the following properties at low THD rates,
0.015% THD+N @ 70W 4Ù
0.015% THD+N @ 45W 8Ù
the efficiancy of the IC is above 80%
92% @ 88W 8Ù
87% @ 125W 4Ù
so it looks like a very viable IC that has the Juice to make more affordable speakers sound good.
Hi Peter,
The stand-by wattage (primary consumption on idle) will be based mainly on the power transformer used (bias current to windings). If needed you could install a music detecting circuitry that would then activate a relay, this relay contact would then power the power transformer. To do this you would need an auxiliary transformer 15VA or less in order to monitor the music and then activate the relay.
Hope this helps,
Eric
The stand-by wattage (primary consumption on idle) will be based mainly on the power transformer used (bias current to windings). If needed you could install a music detecting circuitry that would then activate a relay, this relay contact would then power the power transformer. To do this you would need an auxiliary transformer 15VA or less in order to monitor the music and then activate the relay.
Hope this helps,
Eric
- Status
- Not open for further replies.