Thanks for the link and your review of the board dpuopolo....
This may be because the input caps on the sure boards are close to 1uf not .3uf...If I have measured right?
Bongoman, it is possible to link Mute to VDD, there is a 20k in series with the pin, seems to drop the voltage down to about 5volts..I have tried it and it mutes...The Sleep is a different matter..
I wonder if you have reached the limit of the inductors?
First off, it's bass GRABS you-it's MUCH tighter. This is with only a 1 uf input capacitor across the .3 already there.
This may be because the input caps on the sure boards are close to 1uf not .3uf...If I have measured right?
It amuses me the board provides terminals for MUTE and SLEEP without a 5v to connect to. Please don't connect these to VDD.
Bongoman, it is possible to link Mute to VDD, there is a 20k in series with the pin, seems to drop the voltage down to about 5volts..I have tried it and it mutes...The Sleep is a different matter..
One minor complaint is that at times it can sound a bit saturated at the top end, with certain trebles turning into more of a hiss.
I wonder if you have reached the limit of the inductors?
audio1st said:Thanks for the link and your review of the board dpuopolo....
This may be because the input caps on the sure boards are close to 1uf not .3uf...If I have measured right?
I don't think that's it, because I used a 10 uf electrolytic cap bypassed with a 1 uf film in the Sonic Impact amplifer. That means its 3 db point is at: 1.4 Hz.
audio1st said:Finished the Headphone amp, does the job. No idea how good it is, have neither the good headphones or another good headphone output to compare it to, it is revealing tho..
Looks good!
I bid on one of these amps and if I get it, I also plan to use it for a headphone amplifier.
No it wasn't ultrasonics, just noise.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=81797&highlight=
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=81797&highlight=
Very noob questions
OK guys, time to check you patience meters. I've got some real n00b questions.
I just got my first soldering station and it's burning a hole in my pocket(not literally )and I want to try my hand at modding this board. I figure I'm only out $20 if I fry it, so why not try?
Question #1. Where is a good place to tap for a "on" led? Voltage in(with appropriate R)? Am I right in thinking that VDD outputs 12v? Could I do the same here?
Question #2. The tank cap option. What are the pros? More headroom? At what value would one expect to start to hear improvements? Is there a sweet spot?
Ok, that's more than two questions, but I'm eager to learn.
Great thread guys. I've been curious about this board for a few weeks now. I shoulda know to look here first.
Thanks
OK guys, time to check you patience meters. I've got some real n00b questions.
I just got my first soldering station and it's burning a hole in my pocket(not literally )and I want to try my hand at modding this board. I figure I'm only out $20 if I fry it, so why not try?
Question #1. Where is a good place to tap for a "on" led? Voltage in(with appropriate R)? Am I right in thinking that VDD outputs 12v? Could I do the same here?
Question #2. The tank cap option. What are the pros? More headroom? At what value would one expect to start to hear improvements? Is there a sweet spot?
Ok, that's more than two questions, but I'm eager to learn.
Great thread guys. I've been curious about this board for a few weeks now. I shoulda know to look here first.
Thanks
Update of Mods so far:
C21 & C13 replaced with 2.2uf Epcos MKT.
C3 & C24 removed.
R3 & R16 replaced with 1M ohms.
R1 & R18 replaced with 15k in series with 10k trimmers for DC offset adjustment.
R8 & R14 replaced with 26k7 0.1% 15PPM resistors.
R7 & R13 replaced with 31k6 0.1% 15PPM resistors.
D1 removed and bridged.
2 Panasonic FM 330uf 35V added near chip.
2 Panasonic FC 2200uf 16V added on rails.
Has anyone tried bypassing C3 & C24 with .01ʯf -.02ʯf as a high pass filter?
(.01ʯf soldered in parallel to C3 & C24)
Re: Very noob questions
Hello, The voltage at both VDD terminals will be the same as the voltage you supply to the board. So a LED in series with about 1k resistor between VDD and GND will be OK.
The tank cap is there to improve the bass, a value of up to 10,000uf won't do any harm, if there is a best value you will just have to try different values and combinations and see what works for you. I just use what I have and hope for the best...
gurley123 said:OK guys, time to check you patience meters. I've got some real n00b questions.
I just got my first soldering station and it's burning a hole in my pocket(not literally )and I want to try my hand at modding this board. I figure I'm only out $20 if I fry it, so why not try?
Question #1. Where is a good place to tap for a "on" led? Voltage in(with appropriate R)? Am I right in thinking that VDD outputs 12v? Could I do the same here?
Question #2. The tank cap option. What are the pros? More headroom? At what value would one expect to start to hear improvements? Is there a sweet spot?
Ok, that's more than two questions, but I'm eager to learn.
Great thread guys. I've been curious about this board for a few weeks now. I shoulda know to look here first.
Thanks
Hello, The voltage at both VDD terminals will be the same as the voltage you supply to the board. So a LED in series with about 1k resistor between VDD and GND will be OK.
The tank cap is there to improve the bass, a value of up to 10,000uf won't do any harm, if there is a best value you will just have to try different values and combinations and see what works for you. I just use what I have and hope for the best...
TheSeekerr said:Well, I've ordered a replacement for the board I killed - can anyone give an indication of expected shipping time from experience? I'm hoping my last one wasn't indicative, since it was over the christmas/new year period.
mine arrived after about 3 wks after the winning bid in ebay. I will be modifying it slowly, just a newbie and will follow the mods recommended here.
gychang
I finally completed the mods to my 2024 board. Having killed pads on C3 and C13 and C21 and C24, I am indebted to Audio1st for the alternative method of connecting to R8 and R14.
Initial impressions (after only 5 mins) It Works !
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure2.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure1.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure4.jpg
Initial impressions (after only 5 mins) It Works !
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure2.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure1.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/sure4.jpg
Had a chance to do some listening on my test bench (Hrrmm, Cough) For test bench read Workmate in garage with old Mission's and NAD 3020 as a pre-amp.
It doesn't really like 12v does it. No wonder they revised the later versions to 9-14v. I am using a 13.8v at the moment and have got reasonable volume. I have read that 16v is possible and so I will make a PS at 16v. However in main system I only need about 1Watt.
It sounds pretty good. So some running in and 16v should see it alright.
It doesn't really like 12v does it. No wonder they revised the later versions to 9-14v. I am using a 13.8v at the moment and have got reasonable volume. I have read that 16v is possible and so I will make a PS at 16v. However in main system I only need about 1Watt.
It sounds pretty good. So some running in and 16v should see it alright.
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