I plan on purchasing the MEAN WELL HLG-320H-36A as recommended on the German site.
What can I expect to gain from the PS upgrade? will it just be more power/volume on tap or will there be an improvement in sound quality?
I was really pushing the Sure board the other day, blasting out Leftfield's Leftism CD the clipping light came on on the heaviest bass parts but the amp still had remarkable control on those bass lines, the fan did not spin up once during the whole CD at sound levels that were extreme!
What can I expect to gain from the PS upgrade? will it just be more power/volume on tap or will there be an improvement in sound quality?
I was really pushing the Sure board the other day, blasting out Leftfield's Leftism CD the clipping light came on on the heaviest bass parts but the amp still had remarkable control on those bass lines, the fan did not spin up once during the whole CD at sound levels that were extreme!
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Sure/Wondom used the same boards for both because for higher bulk numbers. They can differ in actual part specs though. Don't rely on the board type number, look at the parts (i.e. the FETs and CAPs), you might be lucky and got a actual higher specs board. Again: The board type marking may not tell the truth though.
Does anyone know what would happen if the power supply input polarity was reversed on this board?
I am still scratching my head as to why the speakers were out of phase on my board.
Speakers were wired correctly but I am not 100% sure if the polarity of the of the Power in is correct ( I dont have a multimeter to check with)
I am still scratching my head as to why the speakers were out of phase on my board.
Speakers were wired correctly but I am not 100% sure if the polarity of the of the Power in is correct ( I dont have a multimeter to check with)
So looking at @MirC 's notes and the datasheets for the ST2001 + STA516 I'm seeing the following:
Sources:
1) ST2001 datasheet
2) STA516 datasheet
Input gain stage is -1.5 (per - (15k rf / 10k ri)
ST2001 input stage diagram:
Power stage is set up as a monolithic amp (I'm guessing based on the 400W into 3 ohm rating)
STA datasheet diagram for power amp configuration:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem that all gain adjustments would need to be made on the input gain stage of the ST2001?
Sources:
1) ST2001 datasheet
2) STA516 datasheet
Input gain stage is -1.5 (per - (15k rf / 10k ri)
ST2001 input stage diagram:
Power stage is set up as a monolithic amp (I'm guessing based on the 400W into 3 ohm rating)
STA datasheet diagram for power amp configuration:
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it would seem that all gain adjustments would need to be made on the input gain stage of the ST2001?
Thank you.
So, I suspect that there is not much noise introduced via the small -1.5 gain provided by the ST1000, and so it would not be much benefit to reduce the feedback resistor.
It seems we're best off using the "Digital Attenuator" offered by sure?
Is there a recommended solution for adjusting the volume of multiple units in parallel?
How do the dip switches work on the unit? I can't find any reference to them in the documentation other than (SW1 to off when using volume controller).
So, I suspect that there is not much noise introduced via the small -1.5 gain provided by the ST1000, and so it would not be much benefit to reduce the feedback resistor.
It seems we're best off using the "Digital Attenuator" offered by sure?
Is there a recommended solution for adjusting the volume of multiple units in parallel?
How do the dip switches work on the unit? I can't find any reference to them in the documentation other than (SW1 to off when using volume controller).
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Throwing in my 2 cents on this amp after owning and dicking around with it for almost a year now.
1) Using a 4 ohm restive load, and a 45v input voltage, this thing will pump out 155W per channel before any clipping or distortion happens.
2) The higher the input voltage you supply this amp with, the hotter it will run, and therefor will require the fan to be on more. at 45V, the fan comes on from time to time even while not being used. at 32v the fan almost never turns on, unless I'm really pushing it for a long time.
3) You will definitely want to isolate this amp from ground, or face a quite substantial ground loop hum.
1) Using a 4 ohm restive load, and a 45v input voltage, this thing will pump out 155W per channel before any clipping or distortion happens.
2) The higher the input voltage you supply this amp with, the hotter it will run, and therefor will require the fan to be on more. at 45V, the fan comes on from time to time even while not being used. at 32v the fan almost never turns on, unless I'm really pushing it for a long time.
3) You will definitely want to isolate this amp from ground, or face a quite substantial ground loop hum.
Hi Linnaeus,
I used Sure's electronic volume for a few months. For use in bi-amplification and it is very good work. It is quite transparent and slightly colored. No hum.
The switches are used to bypass the SMD capacitors on the circuit. Now I removed the volume and put the switches because I use MKP capacitors Obligato Cooper + Ero) instead of SMD, the improvement of the sound is substantial.
Today I wanted to share my experiences for the first time.
I own a "HiFimeDIY T1" (TC2000 and STA510) with 1x "Mundorf AG", 2x "Jantzen Alumen" and "TDK Lambda CFE" 24V at around 30V as well as an "Allo Capacitence Multiplier". My second amplifier is a modified TDA7297.
I just wanted to say, if you do not need the full power of the amp, an "Allo Capacitence Multiplier" will help to get the things even more quiet. Will work up to 32V at 5A.
Capacitance Multiplier
And as a power supply I can recommend "TDK Lambda EFE and CFE" digitally controlled power supplies. The sound is a significant increase over the Meanwell HLG power supplies. HLG power supply sounds warm but a bit dull and not real, not natural.
With the TDKs the soundstage is bigger the over all experience is definitly another league. But they are really expensive.
Take a look at ebay. I'm a bargain hunter and today I bought one for 13 euros (used).
CFE400M Medical, AC-DC, digital power solution (300W convection/400W fan cooled)
EFE-M 300W - 400W medical AC-DC digital power supplies
I am not a technician but a music lover.
I own a "HiFimeDIY T1" (TC2000 and STA510) with 1x "Mundorf AG", 2x "Jantzen Alumen" and "TDK Lambda CFE" 24V at around 30V as well as an "Allo Capacitence Multiplier". My second amplifier is a modified TDA7297.
I just wanted to say, if you do not need the full power of the amp, an "Allo Capacitence Multiplier" will help to get the things even more quiet. Will work up to 32V at 5A.
Capacitance Multiplier
And as a power supply I can recommend "TDK Lambda EFE and CFE" digitally controlled power supplies. The sound is a significant increase over the Meanwell HLG power supplies. HLG power supply sounds warm but a bit dull and not real, not natural.
With the TDKs the soundstage is bigger the over all experience is definitly another league. But they are really expensive.
Take a look at ebay. I'm a bargain hunter and today I bought one for 13 euros (used).
CFE400M Medical, AC-DC, digital power solution (300W convection/400W fan cooled)
EFE-M 300W - 400W medical AC-DC digital power supplies
I am not a technician but a music lover.
I completely agree with the SMD capacitor bypass. I used Dayton Audio metalized Polypropylene. The difference was, as Denbret says, substantial.
Hello,
the Gremlin does not make any pop when it is opened and closed.
Regarding the pop with the bypass of the SMD, this product only with polarized electrochemical capacitors, me and 2 other friends who have the same amp, have made the test. it is absolutely necessary to put non-polarized condos like MKP and or MKT, in this case no pop.
the Gremlin does not make any pop when it is opened and closed.
Regarding the pop with the bypass of the SMD, this product only with polarized electrochemical capacitors, me and 2 other friends who have the same amp, have made the test. it is absolutely necessary to put non-polarized condos like MKP and or MKT, in this case no pop.
By Gremlin you mean this board: Wondom TAMP2400 MkII - GREMLIN | Tripath | Endstufen | Wondom | Aktivmodule / DSP | Hobbyhifiladen? So even in "stock"(no bypass) form it doesn't make pops, right?
Hello everybody,
just got my four amps and two power supply s.
Know wiring power supply s in one box and amplifiers in other.
Begun to question my self is those 500 w power supply enough to power two amplifiers? Picture A
I can buy two more and wire those in a manner Picture B.
Will i get more power in such wiring manner?
just got my four amps and two power supply s.
Know wiring power supply s in one box and amplifiers in other.
Begun to question my self is those 500 w power supply enough to power two amplifiers? Picture A
I can buy two more and wire those in a manner Picture B.
Will i get more power in such wiring manner?
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