Yes, the MW PSs are excellent, on the same level as (good) linear PSs.
On other amps like the L20D (IRS2092) it did indeed change the sound but
I found it does not change the sound of the Gremlin.
Good estimate. On 36V and 8 Ohm you get calculated (assumed internal voltage drop included) 78W per channel, or in other words, around 7,2dB more spl. That means, it's not even double as loud (that would be 10dB). If you want it double as loud as your 15W amp, you'd need 150W, that's on 8 Ohm roughly what you get with a 48V power supply.
Well, that's exactly the way to go, you need speakers with a high spl and use the amp where it actually delivers most of the power. For the Gremlin that would be 3 Ohm or, to be real-world realistic, 4 Ohm. If you need more power on 8 Ohm, there are other amps which are better suited for that need (IRS2092 or others) - but most don't sound as good as the Gremlin, by far.
Well, I know exactly what the problem is. People read 400 or 500W but they don't understand that's at vastly different circumstances than they want it to be, 400W/3Ohm/48V/10%THD. Load Impedance and Voltage is the key to the power figure.
That's likely. The Fane are around 15 Ohm at the upper end, that's a lot more than most hifi speakers with dome tweeters.
Ok il will avoid it. The dc-dc is on it way but its taking to long to arrive 
Plus I thought I could avoid fitting another part.
I got this
14-50V To 12V DC/DC Male Converter CPT Step Down Regulator Car Power Supply UK | eBay
Hopefully it will handle 48v input.
Plus I thought I could avoid fitting another part.
I got this
14-50V To 12V DC/DC Male Converter CPT Step Down Regulator Car Power Supply UK | eBay
Hopefully it will handle 48v input.
I've red about hobbyhifiladen.de in this thread.What is wrong with these guys.
I've ordered and payed for two days. I send them an email and also used the contact form on their website. NOBODY is answering.
The last thing I've ordered from them took nearly 4 weeks and the communication/confirmation/mails were 'sluggish' in response to say the least. Same with the order before that. I talked about that with A friend and he experienced the same twice too. I would not recommend ordering there, instead buy from non-German EU sellers, there are some who are much quicker (one just 3-4 days). I won't name any to avoid the suspicion I would try to re-direct orders and profit from that.
On Sure's site, they sell version 2 (upgrade version).
That's what it says.
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 400 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board Compact - T-AMP
That's what it says.
Sure Electronics' webstore 2 x 400 Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board Compact - T-AMP
I have the AA-AB32313 (2 x 400Watt) and the AA-AA11117 (volume knob). When using both boards, audio plays but the knob does not control volume. Instead, volume is controlled using the source input device.
Question: how do I configure the board to allow the volume knob to adjust volume? There are two switches under the volume module, and I've tried all combinations.
Question: how do I configure the board to allow the volume knob to adjust volume? There are two switches under the volume module, and I've tried all combinations.
Thanks,DonVK. I've tried having both switches 'off' but the amp is silent. Is there a minimum input line signal/voltage? Volume can be controlled from source when DIPs are both 'on'.
When the switches are "on", the volume control is bypassed. So if you get sound then clearly the amp is OK. The volume attenuator is just a resistor divider network. There is no min volume, but your description makes me think the amp is muted.
The knob push in on/off switch on one of my boards is "iffy" you may need to try it a few times. I also had a clearance problem when I panel mounted the control board the knob would not depress enough to activate on/off. You should see the LED on the volume adj board (with knob) cycle on/off with the knob on/off switch. The LED needs to be on, then turn dial slowly all the way to the right a couple revolutions.
If that does not work it's possible that you have a dead control board.
The knob push in on/off switch on one of my boards is "iffy" you may need to try it a few times. I also had a clearance problem when I panel mounted the control board the knob would not depress enough to activate on/off. You should see the LED on the volume adj board (with knob) cycle on/off with the knob on/off switch. The LED needs to be on, then turn dial slowly all the way to the right a couple revolutions.
If that does not work it's possible that you have a dead control board.
Last edited:
I have received this AA-AB32313 board and tested it on a piece of wood.
But there is a quite loud BUZZZ (both 15" driver and horn)
Did I miss something regarding wiring? inputs are connected to a -dead silent-rotel preamp.
Do I have to connect (red arrow) this hole to earth?
But there is a quite loud BUZZZ (both 15" driver and horn)
Did I miss something regarding wiring? inputs are connected to a -dead silent-rotel preamp.
Do I have to connect (red arrow) this hole to earth?
Attachments
I have received this AA-AB32313 board and tested it on a piece of wood.
But there is a quite loud BUZZZ (both 15" driver and horn)
Did I miss something regarding wiring? inputs are connected to a -dead silent-rotel preamp.
Do I have to connect (red arrow) this hole to earth?
Definitely yes.
Thanks.
Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem.
If RCA input shorted, there is no buzz anymore
With preamp connected it buzz immediately, even if the preamp is powered off.
If ONE channel input is shorted and the other connected to the preamp, no buzz.
Maybe a ground loop issue
The preamp has no connection to earth.
Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem.
If RCA input shorted, there is no buzz anymore
With preamp connected it buzz immediately, even if the preamp is powered off.
If ONE channel input is shorted and the other connected to the preamp, no buzz.
Maybe a ground loop issue
The preamp has no connection to earth.