another question please
- I suppose the voltage is set at the input (like a 7815) and then the 15V is then regulated by the superregs?
- or must I account for some voltage drop across the superregs so my input voltage is higher than intended output? (example: if my intended output voltage is 18VDC, I need to supply at leasst 20VDC)
Its all in the article in the store.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/superreg_V2.3b_fig_2.pdf
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/Superreg_customizing_r2.pdf
https://linearaudio.nl/superregs
etc.
jan
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/superreg_V2.3b_fig_2.pdf
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/Superreg_customizing_r2.pdf
https://linearaudio.nl/superregs
etc.
jan
Thanks for the links. I read through most of your articles (I have began reading the original article from Audio express) but didn't find the required input voltage for the desired output voltage.
Example: using an lm317, I believe the input voltage should be at least Vout + 2v.
Is it the same for this regulator?
Thanks again.
One of the articles states that the input voltage should be about 5V higher than the output voltage.
If your input voltage is also regulated like with an LM317, 2V should be enough.
If it is not regulated you have to account for mains variations and ripple and then 5V would be safer.
Jan
If it is not regulated you have to account for mains variations and ripple and then 5V would be safer.
Jan
Jason tells me they definitely are in stock but the shop update is acting up.
Check back in a day or so.
Jan
Check back in a day or so.
Jan
Yeah that's a bummer, I know.
But you must compare the superreg solution with the total cost of something else.
It's easy to buy a single cap that costs more ;-)
Jan
But you must compare the superreg solution with the total cost of something else.
It's easy to buy a single cap that costs more ;-)
Jan
I completed a build this weekend with the goal to get to -5V and +5V. I kept everything standard, except for using a 2.5V reference diode, AD817 opamp and following Ken Ozard's resistor table I used 910R for R13/R6 to get 5.03V.
The LED comes on, but for the negative board I only get up to 3.0V and for the positive board up to 4.2V. I tested this without a load and with a load, same result. If I connect the sense lines together with the main output lines I effectively just get the input DC passed through. My input DC is about 12V. Any advice / guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks!
The LED comes on, but for the negative board I only get up to 3.0V and for the positive board up to 4.2V. I tested this without a load and with a load, same result. If I connect the sense lines together with the main output lines I effectively just get the input DC passed through. My input DC is about 12V. Any advice / guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Lets first look at the pos side. Do not connect an input to the neg reg.
Is there 12V at the pos reg input?
What are the voltages at the opamp input and output, sense lines connected of course.
Can you post a schematic of the primary supply and how you intend to connect it to the two inputs?
Jan
Is there 12V at the pos reg input?
What are the voltages at the opamp input and output, sense lines connected of course.
Can you post a schematic of the primary supply and how you intend to connect it to the two inputs?
Jan
Yes - I have 12V at the input.
With sense lines connected I measure : Voltage at opamp pin 2 = 5.9V, pin 3 = 6.5V and pin 6 = 10.62V, pin 7 = 11.29. Also measuring 11.29V at the output. LED turns on briefly on power up and then turns off.
With sense lines not connected I measure : Voltage at opamp pin 2 = -2.6V, pin 3 = -2.6V and pin 6 = 2.9V, pin 7 = 4.4. Also measuring 4.4V at the output. The LED remains on.
The primary power supply is simple floating type. Post rectifiers I have two 1500uF caps which feeds positive through 10R resistor and negative through another 10R resistor. For positive regulator I connect positive from rectifier to +DC In and negative from regulator to +DC GND input.
Thanks for the help Jan, I appreciate it.
Didn't you say you had a 2.5V reference? That's not getting to the opamp input.
That should be fixed first.
And don't run it without the sense lines, that's nonsensical.
Try to 'get' the circuit a bit. The sense lines tell the opamp what the output is, so 'it' can correct as necessary.
The reference tells the opamp what the output must be, multiplied by the ratio of the two feedback resistors.
When all is well, the two inputs are pretty much the same voltage, ~2.5V in this case.
If you just get it basically, you very quickly see where it goes wrong after just a couple of measurements.
Unless you enjoy flying in the dark ...
Jan
That should be fixed first.
And don't run it without the sense lines, that's nonsensical.
Try to 'get' the circuit a bit. The sense lines tell the opamp what the output is, so 'it' can correct as necessary.
The reference tells the opamp what the output must be, multiplied by the ratio of the two feedback resistors.
When all is well, the two inputs are pretty much the same voltage, ~2.5V in this case.
If you just get it basically, you very quickly see where it goes wrong after just a couple of measurements.
Unless you enjoy flying in the dark ...
Jan
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Yes - I'm using a 2.5V diode with the official boards that I purchased from DIY Audio Store. Definitely not enjoying flying in the dark :-(. I just don't understand how it's not working when I'm following all the guidance in building this. I'll keep troubleshooting...
Follow what I said. The 2.5V ref should get to the non-inv input per the schematic.
It doesn't. Measure if the ref diode itself has 2.5V across it. If that is OK, why doesn't it get to the opamp through the resistor.
Just by measuring step by step - you'll find 'it's here but not there so the problem is this' type of stuff.
Print out the schematic and pencil in what you measure.
That's what I do. There is an error somewhere and you'll find it.
The 'I followed the guidelines so why doesn't it work' routine is useless.
Obviously you made an error because a) there are 100's of working units and b) broken new parts are extremely rare.
The biggest hurdle you are facing is accepting that most probably you made a mistake.
Your ego won't like it, but it is what it is 😎 .
Jan
It doesn't. Measure if the ref diode itself has 2.5V across it. If that is OK, why doesn't it get to the opamp through the resistor.
Just by measuring step by step - you'll find 'it's here but not there so the problem is this' type of stuff.
Print out the schematic and pencil in what you measure.
That's what I do. There is an error somewhere and you'll find it.
The 'I followed the guidelines so why doesn't it work' routine is useless.
Obviously you made an error because a) there are 100's of working units and b) broken new parts are extremely rare.
The biggest hurdle you are facing is accepting that most probably you made a mistake.
Your ego won't like it, but it is what it is 😎 .
Jan
Any luck?
Were you able to find why the 2.5V ref didn't get to the opamp input?
Is the voltage at the ref chip 2.5V?
Jan
Were you able to find why the 2.5V ref didn't get to the opamp input?
Is the voltage at the ref chip 2.5V?
Jan
Managed to buy some board from here in the EU... happy days 🙂
I'm also very lazy! Anyone got a BOM for mouser or Digikey that can be shared or list of me to upload?
I'm also very lazy! Anyone got a BOM for mouser or Digikey that can be shared or list of me to upload?