Junk indeed, but my point is that from long experience it works just as well as the so called pro model at $95.65, which in the USA will buy some seriously pro equipment.
These are about the best crimpers available for 10 AWG - 24 AWG. $55 USD.
Ancor double crimp ratchet tool
Buy Ancor 703030, Double Crimp Ratchet Tool - Mega Depot
I am not saying you need a crimper this good... but there is never any need to pay more than $55 for a crimper... and if you DO pay this much, it should be as good as the Ancor tool... I bought an earlier version of this tool 20 years ago, and after 1000's of crimped wire connections in a marine environment, the tool is in perfect shape, and I never had a crimp failure.
J.
Ancor double crimp ratchet tool
Buy Ancor 703030, Double Crimp Ratchet Tool - Mega Depot
I am not saying you need a crimper this good... but there is never any need to pay more than $55 for a crimper... and if you DO pay this much, it should be as good as the Ancor tool... I bought an earlier version of this tool 20 years ago, and after 1000's of crimped wire connections in a marine environment, the tool is in perfect shape, and I never had a crimp failure.
J.
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Junk indeed, but my point is that from long experience it works just as well as the so called pro model at $95.65, which in the USA will buy some seriously pro equipment.
I agree.
I've got several of those strippers (different name on them) around in the garage and workshop.
They serve the purpose for the occasional times that I need them.
You have implied that I am a troll, apparently because I had the temerity to express the opinion that this was not the case.It could be a problem only if you leave many meters / feet connected and wound into a coil.
It will be a giant inductance greater than the resistance.
I now feel obliged to expand on the physics of the situation as I see it.
Coiling a single conductor wire would have a negative effect as it would add inductance.
Coiling a twin conductor cable would create a common mode choke that has inductance only for common mode signals i.e. for signal currents that flow in the same direction in the pair of conductors.
A coiled loudspeaker cable carries normal mode (differential) signals i.e. currents that flow in opposite directions. These currents produce cancelling magnetic fields, and hence no added inductance.
I am happy to be corrected, but hopefully in a respectful manner.
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Coiling a twin conductor cable would create a common mode choke that has inductance only for common mode signals
Yes.
Know the problem well having mine fused together when I was real young, which over time has slowly ruined the rest of the spine, so take your time!
Thanks for the advice, it is precisely for this reason that I was postponing the arthrodesis, but the time has come, the pain can no longer be borne every day and there is no stomach that can hold so many painkillers for so many years ...
Here's a functionally same crimper and appears to be of similar quality for $4.99, though of course with Imperial markings: 8 In. Four-Way Wire Crimper/Stripper Tool
Is exactly what I have .....😀
I don't like how this looks at all. You've got the signal passing through a solid solder bridge here. Using both set screws and then flowing hot solder in and then further tightening the screws while the solder is still molten is the ultimate. When it's molten, it acts like a lubricant. I have experimented with this procedure while listening to music and the immediate effect on sq during the moment of final tightening while the solder is molten was "astonishing" to say the least. 😉Did the job today. Decided to use Cardas Quad-eutectic and Cardas rosin rather than the Cardas Tri-eutectic, as I thought it would flow better. Also used the 100W iron but I would have been just fine with the 50W.
See pics below.
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I don't like how this looks at all. You've got the signal passing through a solid solder bridge here. Using both set screws and then flowing hot solder in and then further tightening the screws while the solder is still molten is the ultimate. When it's molten, it acts like a lubricant. I have experimented with this procedure while listening to music and the immediate effect on sq during the moment of final tightening while the solder is molten was "astonishing" to say the least. 😉
Wiring a speaker up that way is WAY overkill.
Particularly a such a smallish system up on stands. (judging from the photo)
What I'm saying is, that wiring alone is capable of powering a 1500 watt space heater without trouble.
And I sincerely doubt that any more than 50 watts is ever needed for that speaker.
But, alas, some are so concerned and obsessed with their perception of such things.
Your enthusiasm precedes you as usual and it's duly noted. However paying attention to the statement will help you understand what is being communicated. That way you can make an informed response. 🙂Wiring a speaker up that way is WAY overkill.
Particularly a such a smallish system up on stands. (judging from the photo)
What I'm saying is, that wiring alone is capable of powering a 1500 watt space heater without trouble.
And I sincerely doubt that any more than 50 watts is ever needed for that speaker.
But, alas, some are so concerned and obsessed with their perception of such things.
The way I look at it is that the outer strands of the wire will be electrically bonded to the inner wall of the plug's receptacle along its entire length.I don't like how this looks at all. You've got the signal passing through a solid solder bridge here.
Your experiment of soldering speaker plugs whilst plugged in and playing music is interesting, although the procedure sounds tricky to perform! 🙂
Wiring a speaker up that way is WAY overkill.
Particularly a such a smallish system up on stands. (judging from the photo)
What I'm saying is, that wiring alone is capable of powering a 1500 watt space heater without trouble.
And I sincerely doubt that any more than 50 watts is ever needed for that speaker.
But, alas, some are so concerned and obsessed with their perception of such things.
Here are a few pics of my system:
Ongaku Means Music | Flickr
My speakers are Avantgarde Duo Mezzo. 18 Ω nominal impedance, with a sensitivity of about 107 dB/W/m. I never play more than 1-2 watts I don’t think.
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So here is what I did way back when just for fun...Hardwiring your whole system.... - Page 4 - diyAudioThe way I look at it is that the outer strands of the wire will be electrically bonded to the inner wall of the plug's receptacle along its entire length.
Your experiment of soldering speaker plugs whilst plugged in and playing music is interesting, although the procedure sounds tricky to perform! 🙂
Here are a few pics of my system:
Ongaku Means Music | Flickr
My speakers are Avantgarde Duo Mezzo. 18 Ω nominal impedance, with a sensitivity of about 107 dB/W/m. I never play more than 1-2 watts I don’t think.
And I'm sure you have no need to wire those speakers up with 12 gauge Romex.
That was 40 years ago, Pete, when your hearing was obviously much more acute! 😀So here is what I did way back when just for fun...Hardwiring your whole system.... - Page 4 - diyAudio
I can see why you took such pains to get the soldering just right.
It had to match the quality of the rest of the system! 😎
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Sure, but the conclusion doesn't change. If you paid close attention to the sequence of events, you noted I started with a very good mechanical connection but ended with a startling result.That was 40 years ago, Pete, when your hearing was obviously much more acute! 😀
This is probably where the controversy regarding single strand vs multi-strand cable stems from, however inadvertently. It's easy to make a hard intimate mechanical connection with single strand but not so with multi as I demonstrated. The least one should do is twist and under that pressure solder the tips of multi-strand before inserting the ends so at least they operate as a team.
Btw, non sequitur just muddles the issue.
Benny Hill would have put it another way. 🙂
Do you mean like this?Btw, non sequitur just muddles the issue.
Benny Hill would have put it another way. 🙂

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