Cardas manufactures welding wire? Wow, I bet they must sound great if we use it as a cable to connect speakers ....
I am a green guy in all that I can, but lead-free wire is an exception.
But I recognize that thanks to lead-free SMD solders, a lot of reballing people earn their daily livelihood, that's good.
I think you mean 'Eutectic'.
Eutectic simply means the solder contains a mixture of metals which melts at a lower temperature than the melting point of any of its constituents.
The Cardas solder described in my link contains silver, copper, tin and lead: Cardas Solder
Anyhoo, the main reason I have returned to this thread is to learn if you've successfully soldered up your loudspeaker cables yet!
P.S. @ dotneck335, I wish you many successful couplings!
I am waiting to receive new Cardas rosin and Cardas Quad-eutectic solder. I have (the now discontinued) Cardas Tri-eutectic solder (tin, copper, silver). My rosin is from Radio Shack circa 1995 - I figured I’d get good new rosin as it might have all sort of oxidation products in it.
I am thinking of actually using the Cardas Tri-eutectic solder because it has more silver and tin (which has higher conductivity than lead).
What I am actually planning on is:
1- Strip/twist wires
2- Lightly coat wires and inner connector with rosin
3- Secure wire mechanically with deeper screw, removing top screw of the banana (closest to the inlet for the cable)
4- Secure banana in vice and cable so there’s no relative motion
5- Heat up connector+wire with a 100W solder iron (does it matter it is not temp controlled?)
6- Feed solder to screw opening then to connector inlet
7- Let cool
Repeat for other connectors
Any comments?
Thank you!
I am thinking of actually using the Cardas Tri-eutectic solder because it has more silver and tin (which has higher conductivity than lead).
What I am actually planning on is:
1- Strip/twist wires
2- Lightly coat wires and inner connector with rosin
3- Secure wire mechanically with deeper screw, removing top screw of the banana (closest to the inlet for the cable)
4- Secure banana in vice and cable so there’s no relative motion
5- Heat up connector+wire with a 100W solder iron (does it matter it is not temp controlled?)
6- Feed solder to screw opening then to connector inlet
7- Let cool
Repeat for other connectors
Any comments?
Thank you!
I suppose it's really a toss up beween lower power/longer time and higher power/shorter time. Just watch out for the insulation on the wires melting.
Jings, I'm now thinking you should have bought an extra plug for experimentation purposes!
If it's a metal vice, make sure it doesn't act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the plug. I would insulate the jaws of such a vice using strips of wood..
I hope your next post is a report of your success!
Jings, I'm now thinking you should have bought an extra plug for experimentation purposes!
If it's a metal vice, make sure it doesn't act as a heat sink and draw heat away from the plug. I would insulate the jaws of such a vice using strips of wood..
I hope your next post is a report of your success!
Last edited:
Yeah, I didn't think of buying an extra for experimentation...
My vice has silicone covered jaws and I will use the screw-on aluminum cover screwed in reverse to hold the banana with minimal heat transfer.
Getting the Cardas rosin tomorrow so prob will do it in the next day or two. I will post a few pics when done.
Thank you so much for the help!!!
My vice has silicone covered jaws and I will use the screw-on aluminum cover screwed in reverse to hold the banana with minimal heat transfer.
Getting the Cardas rosin tomorrow so prob will do it in the next day or two. I will post a few pics when done.
Thank you so much for the help!!!
For good reason at least as of 1994 when I retired. UL, etc., testing proved time and time again that a proper cold welded [crimped] joint was superior in every measured way.
For many [most?] of us though, the cost of such tools, components is a bit much, especially considering how little we would need them, so silver soldering [not just silver based] an inexpensive crimp is 'best of the rest' options available to us.
I agree, GM, I never used silver solder, in fact, I would bet that in my country it is not possible.
But the crimping pliers, there are some inexpensive ones, but they are not for heavy use.
I have gotten to twist one of these just with the use of my hands! (sometimes it is not enough and I use a "parrot beak" clamp open in its maximum position)
Pinza Crimpeadora Pelacable Proskit | Mercado Libre
But the crimping pliers, there are some inexpensive ones, but they are not for heavy use.
I have gotten to twist one of these just with the use of my hands! (sometimes it is not enough and I use a "parrot beak" clamp open in its maximum position)
Pinza Crimpeadora Pelacable Proskit | Mercado Libre
Last edited:
My original cables are Audio Note Kondo silver. But I only have a 10 foot run (per channel) and I need 35 feet in my current setup. So I figured I could ask Audio Note to make a run of 35 feet (per channel) - but you don't even want to know how much that would cost. So I figured I'd buy 70 feet of Canare 4S11 and terminate them myself. And that has worked amazingly well over time (3 years). I just wanted to redo the terminations.
BTW, keep in mind my speakers have 18 ohm impedance so a long run of cable isn't a problem.
BTW, keep in mind my speakers have 18 ohm impedance so a long run of cable isn't a problem.