Speaker cable connectors: Solder or Screw?

I am replacing the connectors in a run of Canare 4S11 speaker cable.

Currently I have DHLabs gold connectors (banana on one side, pin on the other) soldered with Cardas silver solder.

I am replacing them with better bananas on each side (z-plug, silver plated).

Should I screw the copper cable in or should I use solder?

Thx.
 
Are your Z plugs the ones with two grub screws inside or just one?

Two would be more secure both mechanically and electrically

I would prefer to use solder for a permanent installation.

I would screw if I am likely to change the speaker cable in the near future.
 
I think it’s the one with one set screw.

What do you think about the following:
1- Clean connector cavity and bare wire with Deoxit, and then wipe Deoxit off
2- Insert bare wire and tighten screw
3- Put flux in the the neck of the connector and wire
4- Solder the wire and connector

This way you get a strong direct mechanical connection between wire and connector as well as sealing and mechanical robustness from soldering the cable to the end of the connector.
 
My 2c...
Either way, screwed or soldered, has nothing to do with immediate sound quality.
It's a matter of sound quality staying consistent over time....and for that, like all others have said, soldering rules.

Pls save yourself any concern for the steps/questions you proposed...happily, they just don't matter.
Simply make a good connection and all will be quite well :)
 
I got the z-plug bananas. I would like your opinion on the best way to attach them to Canare 4S11 cable.

The bananas have two screws one closer to the hole, one further down. I would like to use both the screws and solder. The space between the upmost screw and the else of the opening is not very large, maybe 2mm or 1/16 of an inch.

So I have the following options:

1- Use both screws to secure the cable, then solder the cable and opening (some solder will flow in);

2- Use only the lower (deeper) screw, removing the upper screw and solder the cable - this surely will make for a bigger stronger solder joint;

3- Remove both screws and solder the whole thing.

Any views?

Thank you.
 
One more question: I have a Weller WES51 solder iron with a screwdriver tip (has a flat surface to transfer more heat to bigger surfaces). This is a 50W iron wand. Is this good enough to solder bananas properly and fully or do I need something more powerful for this job?

Thx
 
I see it enough, the power of the welder is important for a good weld, but that is empirical, it depends on the surface to be welded vs. the required temperature, the important thing is to understand the concept of welding. Tin and / or lead easily adheres to hot surfaces, so you should always clean the soldering iron tip before soldering and do not rest the soldering wire directly on the tip of it and then try to make it adhere to the surface cold.
First you heat the surfaces to be joined simultaneously, and rest the solder on it, when you see that it begins to melt, only then can you join the three physical elements. Otherwise it will be a bad, cold junction.
Welding wires usually have fluxes inside, so it won't be necessary to apply external fluxes if you use welding wires of this type. Look for tutorials on YT, there are many on how to get a good weld.
The crimping method is good, and it achieves a good electrical connection, if it is firmly made, no surface rust will form on the joint, which is the only thing that could be counterproductive.
As you can see, I am not an advocate of expensive audiophile cables that promise miraculous results, which does not imply that I would not use them in my audio system if they were given to me, they look pretty ! ;)
 
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I believe the Weller WES51 has adjustable temperature, so set it to max.

Provided the wire receptacles in your Z plugs are not heavy gauge metal (which would act like a heatsink), your 50W iron with screwdriver trip should do the job.

Hopefully, you are about to find out that you are worrying unnecessarily, and will soon be reporting back your success! :cool: