Marsfrogie said:
Yes. Hats off at least
🙂
Has anybody tried Lowther DX4 in a Sachiko? I have a pair of Alerions with DX55 on loan from Jon at Lowther-America and I have to say they are special. I am thinking about building Hedlund horns with the DX4, but Sachiko has better WAF.
http://hjem.get2net.dk/sejrhede/Hedelund.htm
Marsfrogie said:
I just tested a water-based matt urethane. Despite the birch being smooth, the water=based stuff lifted the wood fibres in patches giving a rough and ugly finish.
I think I'll take the water-based stuff back tomorrow and discuss hard wax finishes. I've had good results on some doors with shellac / wax.
Curious to know how you are getting on, Mars ...
Water
If you use water based finishes you should "Raise The Grain" before you apply the finish.
Typically, mist the wood with a damp cloth...the grain will rise...sand with 220 or 320. Then apply the water based finish...Wonderful!
Phil
Santa Fe
If you use water based finishes you should "Raise The Grain" before you apply the finish.
Typically, mist the wood with a damp cloth...the grain will rise...sand with 220 or 320. Then apply the water based finish...Wonderful!
Phil
Santa Fe
Thanks for the responses on the finish and continued interest. I actually picked up some Minwax wipe on polyurethane (satin) instead of going with the water based stuff. I won't get a chance to do it until next weekend. This weekend I did end up damping the basket with white modeling clay (I tried to find duct seal but was not able to find any other than the liquid variety), added some sound absorbent to the magnet and also to the top and bottom of the compression chamber. Here is a pic of what I did. Notice I didn't go very heavy on the "spokes". I might add more later but I would suspect there would be very little improvement. The matting is high grade carpet underlay that I picked up at Home Depot. After only adding the clay and the matts to the back of the magnet I heard significant and obvious changes. Seemed to help a great deal with the distortion I was getting at moderate volumes and smoothed everything out.
Alex from Oz, have you experimented with any other materials such as a paintable application? I wouldn't mind trying that out but would like to use a more aesthetically appealing material.
For the wiring I'm using cat5e riser cable. I have 4 conductors soldered to each speaker terminal.
On another note one of my friends stopped by and gave the speakers a listen. I don't think he shares my mentality for audio as he thought that "those beasts" would be good hooked up to his XBox. He also proceded to tell me that he didn't think that there was "anything special" with the speakers but thought they were just well positioned.
Sigh... In my age group (21) it seems that if it doesn't make your ears bleed with metallic screeches or vibrate fillings out of your teeth it isn't impressive.
Alex from Oz, have you experimented with any other materials such as a paintable application? I wouldn't mind trying that out but would like to use a more aesthetically appealing material.
For the wiring I'm using cat5e riser cable. I have 4 conductors soldered to each speaker terminal.
On another note one of my friends stopped by and gave the speakers a listen. I don't think he shares my mentality for audio as he thought that "those beasts" would be good hooked up to his XBox. He also proceded to tell me that he didn't think that there was "anything special" with the speakers but thought they were just well positioned.
Sigh... In my age group (21) it seems that if it doesn't make your ears bleed with metallic screeches or vibrate fillings out of your teeth it isn't impressive.
Marsfrogie said:
G'day Marsfrogie,
Haven't explored any paintable applications at this stage.
The idea is to use the duct tape and magic tape as a temporary way of experiencing the difference the pattern makes.
It allows you to add or remove strips to find what suits you and your listening environment.
You could use clear duct tape - see here.
Alternatively, to test paint, I would lay strips of magic tape first, then paint the blocks and check whether you get the same effect as the duct tape.
If it works, then peel off the magic tape and re-paint the blocks directly onto your cabinets.
Cheers,
Alex
Marsfrogie said:
G'day Marsfrogie,
Have you put anything on the inside of the basket legs (spokes)?
Adding a layer of 1/4" felt or modelling clay would make a definite improvement.
Otherwise the sound from the rear of the cone hits the metal legs and bounces straight back out through the front of the cone.
I would add a layer of modelling clay over the magnet ring as well.
I used a thick layer of white poster putty all over the magnet and legs of my FE167E's - they look like undecorated wedding cakes! 😀
Also, fill the cavity at the back of the mounting plate with the modeling clay to stop it from ringing.
Try holding the magnet and flicking the mounting plate with your fingernail...
Cheers,
Alex
Attachments
Alex from Oz said:
Felt is good, modeling clay doesn't look much different than the metal as far as reflections go.
You want to keep the rear of the driver as streamlined as possible... on the 206 the magnet sticks out beyound the shadow of the basket, on a 167 it is inside the shadow so we have 2 entirely different situayions. You have done a good job.
Some felt around the magnet wouldn't hurt, but take care -- at least on the FE126 if you do this you can no longer get the driver thru the hole in the box.
BTW, if the modeling clay drys out and stiffens at all it isn't a good choice for doing the job. I use ductseal.
This part of the driver is called the bezel -- Even better -- alot better, is something like Silent Running SR500. A latex paint-on damping compound for boats.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=111724
I haven't actually got around to posting pics of the bezel treatment in this thread, but there is more information
Take the driver facing up holding either side of the bezel and twist-- the SR500 also stiffens the bezel
dave
G'day dave,
Thanks for setting me straight on the modelling clay.
I use barium mineral loaded vinyl with an acoustic foam layer for the inside of the legs.
I'll be getting some SR500 for the bezel and legs asap.
Looks like I'll have to cut the wedding cakes! 😀
Cheers,
Alex
Thanks for setting me straight on the modelling clay.
I use barium mineral loaded vinyl with an acoustic foam layer for the inside of the legs.
I'll be getting some SR500 for the bezel and legs asap.
Looks like I'll have to cut the wedding cakes! 😀
Cheers,
Alex
Thanks for the pic Dave,
I have been contemplating what to do with the bezel on my 126's.
Take care,
Robert
I have been contemplating what to do with the bezel on my 126's.
Take care,
Robert
Thanks for all of the responses. As far as I know this modeling clay does not dry out. It claims on the package that it never hardens and is not water soluble. Very sticky on your fingers and hard to wash off too. I didn't even think about adding felt. I might pick up some velcro and only use the felt side so that I can utilize the adhesive backing. Anyone know of another source for adhesive backed felt? I'll try to pick up some of that SR500 if I can find a marine store around here. I can't find solid ductseal at any of the home improvement stores.
Marsfrogie said:
On another note one of my friends stopped by and gave the speakers a listen. I don't think he shares my mentality for audio as he thought that "those beasts" would be good hooked up to his XBox. He also proceded to tell me that he didn't think that there was "anything special" with the speakers but thought they were just well positioned.
I hear ya on this one, I'm 22 and all my friends don't get it, especially when I start talking about things like vinyl records and tubes...
I agree with both of you 100% on that too. I'm 21, my room mates have known me most of my life, and are used to my "exotic interests" and no longer think my tubes and vinyl are weird, but they certainly aren't interested. My friend's PS3 gets way more attention from our college-aged visitors than any of my equipment does...so sad
BVR Modeling Questions
BVR Modeling Questions
Ok …. I purchased a license from MK for his MC worksheets, and MC 14 is on its way. I would like to know which of his WS are used to model the Chang series of BVR’s and from which section are you posting the modeled response graphs. I would really like to see a specific example for let’s say the Chang using the Pioneer B20.
I’m shopping for the required software and other components to build a system to measure the completed projects. I would like to contribute, and take a shot modeling other drivers.
Regards
BVR Modeling Questions
Ok …. I purchased a license from MK for his MC worksheets, and MC 14 is on its way. I would like to know which of his WS are used to model the Chang series of BVR’s and from which section are you posting the modeled response graphs. I would really like to see a specific example for let’s say the Chang using the Pioneer B20.
I’m shopping for the required software and other components to build a system to measure the completed projects. I would like to contribute, and take a shot modeling other drivers.
Regards
Last bit of timber now ready to go on my Sachikos!
One question ...
There are 2 voids in each Sachiko - how should I handle these?
Cat litter?
Polyester fill?
Nothing (they are far from the driver in a pretty heavy speaker)?
One question ...
There are 2 voids in each Sachiko - how should I handle these?
Cat litter?
Polyester fill?
Nothing (they are far from the driver in a pretty heavy speaker)?
I have backed this thread up to where this last OT bit started... everyone can start over with fresh perspective.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=119730
dave
I think, in the confusion, Alan's question got lost before. Sorry about that! OK, voids -I assme you're using angled strike-plates in the mouths rather than stepped pieces, because that's the only place in the cabinet where there are any potential voids.
Lots of people have their favourites. Cat litter, appropriately bagged, is popular, & probably what I'd be inclined to use. Expanding foam is quite common too -best if done in stages, and compacted down so you get the density up.
Scott
Lots of people have their favourites. Cat litter, appropriately bagged, is popular, & probably what I'd be inclined to use. Expanding foam is quite common too -best if done in stages, and compacted down so you get the density up.
Scott
gpsmithii:
I've tried to model the Half-Chang for both the B20 and FE207E using the BLH_sections worksheet. Unfortunately I don't get the same Far Field SPL response (on page 5) that is shown on the Half-Chang plan. Specifically I get an unexpected resonance at approx. 520 Hz. It can be damped by stuffing the coupling chamber but something must be wrong with my model. Here's how I've set it up:
Coupling Chamber Geometry
L := 12.25 in
E := 0.001
So := 9.5 in x 29.5 in
SL := 9.5 in x 29.5 in
Density = 0.0 lb ft-3 (* change to 0.5 to damp resonance? *)
BLH Enclosure Definition
n_closed := 3
n_open := 5
... and lower on down on page 3:
Horn Geometry Definition
Section Length Initial Area Final Area
L04 := 4in s04,0 := 0.7.5in x 9.5in s04,1 := 0.75in x 9.5in
L05 := 13.8in s05,0 := 0.7.5in x 9.5in s05,1 := 14.8in x 9.5in
Can anyone see where I've gone wrong?
Incidently I went further with this model and worked out the Plotted SPL Response for the System (page 13) and was very pleasantly surprised at how good the predicted in-room response was with the Half-Chang up against the wall.
I've tried to model the Half-Chang for both the B20 and FE207E using the BLH_sections worksheet. Unfortunately I don't get the same Far Field SPL response (on page 5) that is shown on the Half-Chang plan. Specifically I get an unexpected resonance at approx. 520 Hz. It can be damped by stuffing the coupling chamber but something must be wrong with my model. Here's how I've set it up:
Coupling Chamber Geometry
L := 12.25 in
E := 0.001
So := 9.5 in x 29.5 in
SL := 9.5 in x 29.5 in
Density = 0.0 lb ft-3 (* change to 0.5 to damp resonance? *)
BLH Enclosure Definition
n_closed := 3
n_open := 5
... and lower on down on page 3:
Horn Geometry Definition
Section Length Initial Area Final Area
L04 := 4in s04,0 := 0.7.5in x 9.5in s04,1 := 0.75in x 9.5in
L05 := 13.8in s05,0 := 0.7.5in x 9.5in s05,1 := 14.8in x 9.5in
Can anyone see where I've gone wrong?
Incidently I went further with this model and worked out the Plotted SPL Response for the System (page 13) and was very pleasantly surprised at how good the predicted in-room response was with the Half-Chang up against the wall.