Right on! You want to wrap the phase plug with at least one (and preferably two) turns of scotch tape and if it won't easily slide into the VC, then the phase plug is too big.
GM
GM
Ok.
These are good tips. I guess I was concerned about 'fit' doing these experiments. I may not need the 7/8 in dowel if there's considerable
clearance around the whole diameter.
Next job is the RS 1197 and eventually the Fostex FE127e.
All these are pretty close in diameter to the egg.
These are good tips. I guess I was concerned about 'fit' doing these experiments. I may not need the 7/8 in dowel if there's considerable
clearance around the whole diameter.
Next job is the RS 1197 and eventually the Fostex FE127e.
All these are pretty close in diameter to the egg.
Hi guys. I'm working on a pair of Sachikos and made a mistake. I left out the "F" baffle. I may still be able to get it in there somehow but was wondering how important it is. It is near the mouth of the horn. Any ideas? Thanks.
Also, as I was clamping up the speakers I noticed that one cabinet sounded boomier than the other when I put my head in the outlet and made loud noises. What could cause this? Is it a difference in the wood? Does it even matter? Thanks.
Also, as I was clamping up the speakers I noticed that one cabinet sounded boomier than the other when I put my head in the outlet and made loud noises. What could cause this? Is it a difference in the wood? Does it even matter? Thanks.
I could give you the answer you want, but I'd be lying. It's vital. Without it, the whole design will be rendered moot, unfortunately. It will drastically change the pathlength, flare, and there'll be a big resonant cavity too. You're going to have to try & get it in there, somehow.
Wow, not the answer I was expecting. Anyway, I'll figure out a way to get it in there. Perhaps a speed square to tap it into position. You should have seen the look of complexity on my face when I found the other 4 baffles sitting there after I sealed up the boxes.
Marsfrogie said:
It is important that that piece is sealed in place. you might be best to sacrifice the baffle to gain access.
dave
Accent feature
I have made similar mistakes on projects in the past. You could cut a port in the side by plunging a saw into the cabinet. Make the correction. The baffle pannel will now be a bit too small due to the saw cut. Find a nice piece of contrasting wood to make a patch out of and glue over to top.
Here is a picture of an accent design i did a few years ago.
I have made similar mistakes on projects in the past. You could cut a port in the side by plunging a saw into the cabinet. Make the correction. The baffle pannel will now be a bit too small due to the saw cut. Find a nice piece of contrasting wood to make a patch out of and glue over to top.
Here is a picture of an accent design i did a few years ago.
Attachments
I was able to get the panels glued in place and used brad nails through the sides to keep them in place. Will I know if it is not right by the sound? I'm pretty sure they are close. If it ends up not being correct I will drill a hole through one of the sides and fix it.
You should be able to tell easily enough. If there's a spurious resonance occuring, then that'll be it.
Hello all!
I've been following this forum for quite some time, trying to find a good full range setup. But after researching I'm still intimidated by all the choices! Just completed my first DIY amp, (2a3 SET) which will be driving the speakers. I will be listening to a LARGE variety of music; but mostly classical orchestra and every sub genre of rock. As far as a driver I've been leaning towards the 206e because it is within budget and has a high efficiency (I'm a little worried at what this amp will be able to power given my music choices). So aside from the efficiency concern, I am open to other sizes of drivers. So far the Bruce, G Chang, and Curvy Chang have caught my eye.
I've been following this forum for quite some time, trying to find a good full range setup. But after researching I'm still intimidated by all the choices! Just completed my first DIY amp, (2a3 SET) which will be driving the speakers. I will be listening to a LARGE variety of music; but mostly classical orchestra and every sub genre of rock. As far as a driver I've been leaning towards the 206e because it is within budget and has a high efficiency (I'm a little worried at what this amp will be able to power given my music choices). So aside from the efficiency concern, I am open to other sizes of drivers. So far the Bruce, G Chang, and Curvy Chang have caught my eye.
Greets!
Unless you have a whole bunch of 2A3s on the chassis about all it will drive is headphones to meet your performance goals since a lone 2A3 will just barely meet the dynamic headroom minimum requirements with my 103+ dB efficient multi-way speakers, but I imagine some others will disagree, so as always YMMV.
GM
Unless you have a whole bunch of 2A3s on the chassis about all it will drive is headphones to meet your performance goals since a lone 2A3 will just barely meet the dynamic headroom minimum requirements with my 103+ dB efficient multi-way speakers, but I imagine some others will disagree, so as always YMMV.
GM
🙁 i see..! I believe my amplifier is supposed to put out about 4-5wpc. But, being new at this, I'm not too sure how much capability 4-5 watts has. I might have to look into parallel output tubes
GM said:
GM seems to like 10 x the power that many of us live happily with. With your choice of music, you may well find he is closer to realistic. Your room size also plays a role. An SE 2A3 is usually 3-3.5 W.
I have 5 w with 90 dB speakers. Most of the time it is fine, but if i want to play classics at realistic leavels, or really crank the rock & roll it is insuffiicent. (the new <100 Hz woofers do help as far as dynamics are concerned)
Most people with 206s are happy with 2A3 SE
dave
Tube Noob said:
At what? 10% distortion? 1% is considered the threshold and 5% about the euphonic limit, so maybe 2.5-3 usable watts in the lower mid-band where the dynamic power requirement is highest. Then there's the lack of bass control and rolled off top end, but I must say that few tubes do the critical hearing acuity BW better than the 2A3, so many folks accept a so-so top and bottom to get the glorious middle, making it a very poor choice overall IMO for what you want it for.
Anyway, how much capability a tube watt has is dependent on the load and how 'stiff' the amp's power supply is. IOW if the power supply can put out plenty of voltage to hit those high transients of an orchestra and the driver load is high, then it doesn't take much current and why 24 ohm and higher systems were the norm in the early days of audio when 8 watts had to fill a small cinema with intelligible dialog/singing.
GM
planet10 said:
LOL! That didn't take long. 😉 What I like/demand is 'clean', so I'm not power hungry per se, just that the physics of the situation for low power at low distortion requires extreme efficiency and the greater the efficiency the 'cleaner' the signal chain must be to push the noise floor down into the room's, so as much as I prefer efficient systems overall, there's lots to be said for using medium efficiency systems with a nice power reserve.
That said, you're of course right about the room having a major impact on power Vs efficiency requirements, but I always assume a decent size room when folks take their R&R seriously since most recordings I've heard over the decades sound horrible at any level in small rooms.
GM
Well unfortunately I am still a college student, and have been bouncing around from apartment to apartment. Luckily I will be in a house for the next few years that has a fairly decent sized living room with about a 10 foot ceiling.
My next project will be a higher power amp, maybe a gain clone with a tube preamp. (don't have the funds for another tube power amp right now) But until then, I need to make use of this 2A3 I just built! I'm thinking my best bet for a high efficiency driver (in a college student price range) is the 206, and perhaps in a v2 Bruce BVR?
My next project will be a higher power amp, maybe a gain clone with a tube preamp. (don't have the funds for another tube power amp right now) But until then, I need to make use of this 2A3 I just built! I'm thinking my best bet for a high efficiency driver (in a college student price range) is the 206, and perhaps in a v2 Bruce BVR?
Tube Noob said:
or Sachiko.
Don't discount the 207 either... about the same price, but a G Chang or Half-Chang is easier on the plywood budget & easier to build.
dave
C (& HC) will give better performance than Bruce, as well as being an easier build. The 207 would be my choice for these boxes. Sachiko will give a different sound; sacrifices a bit of smoothness for more gain & superior transient response. Given that you're a student (I know the feeling) & therefore budget will be a consideration, as well as weight, I'd go for the Chang box.
BTW -regarding your amp project, I suggest you build one of the First Watt amps, which take any and every gainclone & T-amp I've heard to the cleaners, beat it up, and then stuff it head-first into a dryer.
BTW -regarding your amp project, I suggest you build one of the First Watt amps, which take any and every gainclone & T-amp I've heard to the cleaners, beat it up, and then stuff it head-first into a dryer.
Well then it looks like it will be a G Chang with a 207! Are there any sonic differences between the G Chang and the Curvy Chang or is this just aesthetic?
Also I haven't done much research yet, just a quick skim, but I haven't been able to find a kit or schematic for the very expensive First Watt amps. Although the concept sounds very enticing!
Also I haven't done much research yet, just a quick skim, but I haven't been able to find a kit or schematic for the very expensive First Watt amps. Although the concept sounds very enticing!
Did you try the First Watt site? Select the amp you want & download the owners manual for complete schematics. http://www.firstwatt.com/products.htm Also, Nelson's section of this forum (Pass Labs) -each has several threads devoted to it. There are no kits. You have to build it yourself.
Yes, there is a difference between the two -speaking for myself (and I believe Ron shares this take) I don't design anything for aesthetics; I'm only interested in the performance. The curved front version focuses radiation, while the flat presents something closer to a column in the LF.
Yes, there is a difference between the two -speaking for myself (and I believe Ron shares this take) I don't design anything for aesthetics; I'm only interested in the performance. The curved front version focuses radiation, while the flat presents something closer to a column in the LF.