Hi Guys,
I wish so much you would find time to design a mBVR/Chang cabinet for the Monacor SP200X.
Greetings,
TKsys
I wish so much you would find time to design a mBVR/Chang cabinet for the Monacor SP200X.
Greetings,
TKsys
TKsys said:
From earlier in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1316268#post1316268
Any use?
FWIW guys, I've just reworked the Olivia cabinet -waveguides are redesigned to reduce distortion, which has the side benefit of improving the aesthetics too. Overall cabinet height is reduced by about 12in, & tuning frequency raised slightly which will work better in practice.
Sachikos finally started
Got the timber for my Sachikos today.
B&Q Birch Ply £50 per 8x4 sheet 3 of. Got the B&Q guy to do all the longitudinal cuts. Spot-on job: nailed them all exactly - thanks mate! Lovely plywood too - no voids.
Just marked out all the cross cuts. Will keep y'all posted.
Drivers (fe206e) now EnABL'd, with phase plugs, and broken in. Anybody interested you can see some pics of the driver mods at
Driver Mods Album
Got the timber for my Sachikos today.
B&Q Birch Ply £50 per 8x4 sheet 3 of. Got the B&Q guy to do all the longitudinal cuts. Spot-on job: nailed them all exactly - thanks mate! Lovely plywood too - no voids.
Just marked out all the cross cuts. Will keep y'all posted.
Drivers (fe206e) now EnABL'd, with phase plugs, and broken in. Anybody interested you can see some pics of the driver mods at
Driver Mods Album
Re: Sachikos finally started
Thanks for the excellent driver mods pics.
I think I drink too much tea to be able to paint like that.
Still looking for good illustrations of using the pens.
Easter is on the way. Last year I went to the craft stores looking for wooden eggs and other shapes for phase plugs. I have some old 50 centers (Pioneer closeouts) to practice with.
Don't know anybody that does lathe work in Northeast Wisconsin US. Besides, my hobbying is on the cheap.
Alan Hope said:
Thanks for the excellent driver mods pics.
I think I drink too much tea to be able to paint like that.
Still looking for good illustrations of using the pens.
Easter is on the way. Last year I went to the craft stores looking for wooden eggs and other shapes for phase plugs. I have some old 50 centers (Pioneer closeouts) to practice with.
Don't know anybody that does lathe work in Northeast Wisconsin US. Besides, my hobbying is on the cheap.
Re: Re: Sachikos finally started
Before using the brushes I tried round-hand pens. Problem was - they are designed to be used with ink, and acrylic paint is just too thick. I was getting sort of scratched blobs, it was much easier to paint.
The outer rings are not hard to paint. Mark it out with pencil. Use an appropriate size of brush that will do the correct width, and don't overload it. Practice a consistent short stroke towards you and rotate the brush 180 for the second stroke. Then just keep turning the driver anticlockwise as you go. The whizzer is easy enough too - use a smaller brush for the inside. It is under the whizzer that is awkward. The problems are 1. Not touching the main cone on the way in/out, 2. getting a close resemblance to the pattern. You tend to get sort of small diagonal blobs. However, I think that the pattern is not critical here - photos from others who have done this look pretty similar to mine.
It took me, as a lathe-rookie, 4 hours to learn some basic techniques then turn the phase plugs. I had an experienced "latheist" guiding me, and superb range of tools. Planet10's phase plugs are reasonably priced IMO for the work involved. Get the longer (52mm) ones for EnABL'd fe206es.
I have now also done a single coat of Micro Gloss (50% cut with water) to both main cone and whizzer. All these mods are worthwhile.
Pretty time consuming - but I now have SIGNIFICANTLY better drivers than when I first took them out of the box. Well worth it.
loninappleton said:
Before using the brushes I tried round-hand pens. Problem was - they are designed to be used with ink, and acrylic paint is just too thick. I was getting sort of scratched blobs, it was much easier to paint.
The outer rings are not hard to paint. Mark it out with pencil. Use an appropriate size of brush that will do the correct width, and don't overload it. Practice a consistent short stroke towards you and rotate the brush 180 for the second stroke. Then just keep turning the driver anticlockwise as you go. The whizzer is easy enough too - use a smaller brush for the inside. It is under the whizzer that is awkward. The problems are 1. Not touching the main cone on the way in/out, 2. getting a close resemblance to the pattern. You tend to get sort of small diagonal blobs. However, I think that the pattern is not critical here - photos from others who have done this look pretty similar to mine.
It took me, as a lathe-rookie, 4 hours to learn some basic techniques then turn the phase plugs. I had an experienced "latheist" guiding me, and superb range of tools. Planet10's phase plugs are reasonably priced IMO for the work involved. Get the longer (52mm) ones for EnABL'd fe206es.
I have now also done a single coat of Micro Gloss (50% cut with water) to both main cone and whizzer. All these mods are worthwhile.
Pretty time consuming - but I now have SIGNIFICANTLY better drivers than when I first took them out of the box. Well worth it.
Looking at the enabling closely it looks morelike dabs-- you know morse code.
[Time passes]
I always lose the tools I need when I look for 'em. So I used a box cutter.
But having some sacrificial speaks, I did a couple. The procedure isn't too painful for removing the dust cap (still only working on 50 cent scrubs though.)
I cut the wooden egg freehand with a pliers to grip and a hack saw using the jaws as a guide. The cut was pretty straight. Used a long sanding block to level it off.
I measured the diameters of the things and and if I add a piece of 3/4 in dowel to the nose cone of the wooden egg, I should be able to approximate the effect.
Since I also have 3/4 in magnets to attach, would that produce any bucking effect or other problems? Otherwise I'd glue on some washers rather than try to pilot screws in straight on something that small.
[Time passes]
I always lose the tools I need when I look for 'em. So I used a box cutter.
But having some sacrificial speaks, I did a couple. The procedure isn't too painful for removing the dust cap (still only working on 50 cent scrubs though.)
I cut the wooden egg freehand with a pliers to grip and a hack saw using the jaws as a guide. The cut was pretty straight. Used a long sanding block to level it off.
I measured the diameters of the things and and if I add a piece of 3/4 in dowel to the nose cone of the wooden egg, I should be able to approximate the effect.
Since I also have 3/4 in magnets to attach, would that produce any bucking effect or other problems? Otherwise I'd glue on some washers rather than try to pilot screws in straight on something that small.
Dabs - yep, thats EnABL for ya. There was a suggestion that "slightly" sloppy application may even produce a better result - a kind of random element.
If you mean using magnets to attach the phase-plug - I wouldn't. Sounds like yours are narrower than mine - you could glue on a single fairly large washer.
If you mean using magnets to attach the phase-plug - I wouldn't. Sounds like yours are narrower than mine - you could glue on a single fairly large washer.
It seems that with a continuous band of metal with a hole that one side is pulling & the other pushing so it tips over into the voice coil.
dave
dave
Weird. Well I have small screws too.
Going to mount my cheapies in a temp boxes, one with phase plug, one without and see if anything clicks.
Going to mount my cheapies in a temp boxes, one with phase plug, one without and see if anything clicks.
i got my sample phase plug done.
Never cut into a speaker before so that was pretty scary.
The home brew phase plug is made with some 3/4 dowel and a wooden 'craft' egg found at the hobby store. Those were 6 for $1.50 US. Cutting those buggers was rough with no place to hold 'em steady. Since the dowel is used to pretty much support the nosecone the fact that the tape was not constant doesn't appear to mean much.
Testing with 50 cent drivers, I don't frankly know if I'll be able to hear anything.
Question is: how does the cone move with the plug in place? Will the cone move back and forth along the plug so in effect the plug is a separate 'construction'? I haven't installed this driver yet. But I think I can test this using a AA battery as I would to set up correct polarity.
Never cut into a speaker before so that was pretty scary.
The home brew phase plug is made with some 3/4 dowel and a wooden 'craft' egg found at the hobby store. Those were 6 for $1.50 US. Cutting those buggers was rough with no place to hold 'em steady. Since the dowel is used to pretty much support the nosecone the fact that the tape was not constant doesn't appear to mean much.
Testing with 50 cent drivers, I don't frankly know if I'll be able to hear anything.
Question is: how does the cone move with the plug in place? Will the cone move back and forth along the plug so in effect the plug is a separate 'construction'? I haven't installed this driver yet. But I think I can test this using a AA battery as I would to set up correct polarity.
The plug sits on the magnet and doesn't move. There is a small gap all round the plug between the plug and (what's left of) the cone.
My speaker sounded 'faster', and lost some "shoutiness." This made sense - there is not only some mass removed, but the dust cap had a little oil-drum-shaped air pocket between it and the magnet, which must impede free movement, The effect of this little cavity is removed.
I believe there are also "wave-guide"effects due to the profile of the phase plug aiding high frequency dispersion.
My speaker sounded 'faster', and lost some "shoutiness." This made sense - there is not only some mass removed, but the dust cap had a little oil-drum-shaped air pocket between it and the magnet, which must impede free movement, The effect of this little cavity is removed.
I believe there are also "wave-guide"effects due to the profile of the phase plug aiding high frequency dispersion.
Ok, nobody move
Ok, nobody move.
I was getting the phase plug installed and because i didn't understand how the movement worked when first putting the thing in it had a nice satisfying click into place. However the sound got very thin, cramped and lost volume.
The experimentation started then and I backed off the screws. The screws are stubbies and nearly out, but I have the needed movement (excursion) now. Trouble is I had to fiddle until I heard the sound getting right turning the plug a flicking it like a clown's nose..
So nobody move.
I'm considering moving up the food chain of cast offs and trying my other old set eventually. Last call for the RS 1197's I put in the for sale section months ago.
Ok, nobody move.
I was getting the phase plug installed and because i didn't understand how the movement worked when first putting the thing in it had a nice satisfying click into place. However the sound got very thin, cramped and lost volume.
The experimentation started then and I backed off the screws. The screws are stubbies and nearly out, but I have the needed movement (excursion) now. Trouble is I had to fiddle until I heard the sound getting right turning the plug a flicking it like a clown's nose..
So nobody move.
I'm considering moving up the food chain of cast offs and trying my other old set eventually. Last call for the RS 1197's I put in the for sale section months ago.
Re: Ok, nobody move
Yes, that happens when the former rubs on the plug. Happens to me when I move one of the sets around.
I am confused. Where are the screws? The ones I have are on the bottom of the plugs and they cause the click when installing the plugs from the attraction of magnetism. The screw heads are sunk into the plug so they don't actually touch the pole piece. What do you mean you had to back them out?
I know the feeling well.
loninappleton said:
Yes, that happens when the former rubs on the plug. Happens to me when I move one of the sets around.
I am confused. Where are the screws? The ones I have are on the bottom of the plugs and they cause the click when installing the plugs from the attraction of magnetism. The screw heads are sunk into the plug so they don't actually touch the pole piece. What do you mean you had to back them out?
I know the feeling well.
My screws are proud of the surface by a lot. I suppose if there was more room to fiddle or if the shank if the phase plug were longer I'd have less difficulty. Only option here is to get some different screws because this is all experiment.
I cut a new nose cone today for another diameter-- one closer to my better speakers. It's possible I can countersink on the next round.
For these experiments I'm using up all the old screws and other connects and such that didn't work or I had no use for.
I'd surely never go back to bookshelf speakers after comparing these small BR boxes to the MLTL or BIB or Harvey.
I cut a new nose cone today for another diameter-- one closer to my better speakers. It's possible I can countersink on the next round.
For these experiments I'm using up all the old screws and other connects and such that didn't work or I had no use for.
I'd surely never go back to bookshelf speakers after comparing these small BR boxes to the MLTL or BIB or Harvey.
Re: Re: Ok, nobody move
Since last post I got some 7/8 in dowel for the max diameter of my wooden eggs (may go shopping for more eggs.. the ones I got were 6 for $1.49 US -- a lot of fun for a buck and a half.)
What you call the former has made a lot of noise on the installed plug.
I don't know if the shank should be narrower or if something should be trimmed out.
Most noise occurs during test tones way down the scale.
My point in writing all this is How is a professionally made plug different
with regard to fit at the former 'ring' area?
For my test boxes, I've tried to even out the variables and find a good source where I can hear what's happening. That's usually a Sat. night radio broadcast of international music (acoustic Bosa Nova gives a lot of
detail for instrument and voice.)
Cal Weldon said:
Since last post I got some 7/8 in dowel for the max diameter of my wooden eggs (may go shopping for more eggs.. the ones I got were 6 for $1.49 US -- a lot of fun for a buck and a half.)
What you call the former has made a lot of noise on the installed plug.
I don't know if the shank should be narrower or if something should be trimmed out.
Most noise occurs during test tones way down the scale.
My point in writing all this is How is a professionally made plug different
with regard to fit at the former 'ring' area?
For my test boxes, I've tried to even out the variables and find a good source where I can hear what's happening. That's usually a Sat. night radio broadcast of international music (acoustic Bosa Nova gives a lot of
detail for instrument and voice.)
Re: Re: Re: Ok, nobody move
Lonin, take some pics, put them on Picasa or something so we can see what's going on. Sounds to me like the "egg" part was impeding the cone movement.
The cone should be able to move freely without ever touching the phaseplug at any point. Mine have about a 2mm gap at all times between the plug and the cone.
loninappleton said:
Lonin, take some pics, put them on Picasa or something so we can see what's going on. Sounds to me like the "egg" part was impeding the cone movement.
The cone should be able to move freely without ever touching the phaseplug at any point. Mine have about a 2mm gap at all times between the plug and the cone.