Hi Mike,
Yup. That's the way those CDs are. They tell the CDP what track they are on, and the countdown is being read off the CD itself. A less "intelligent" machine might play through, but it's more likely to pause the same amount of time before playing the next track. It just won't show you the count down.
Older CDs had this more commonly. All the better machines would behave in the manner you have described. There really isn't any way to skip the first few seconds, even if you re-wrote the code that the processor runs under. The only way for you to change how this CD plays is to record a new CD while editing what you are recording.
-Chris
Yup. That's the way those CDs are. They tell the CDP what track they are on, and the countdown is being read off the CD itself. A less "intelligent" machine might play through, but it's more likely to pause the same amount of time before playing the next track. It just won't show you the count down.
Older CDs had this more commonly. All the better machines would behave in the manner you have described. There really isn't any way to skip the first few seconds, even if you re-wrote the code that the processor runs under. The only way for you to change how this CD plays is to record a new CD while editing what you are recording.
-Chris
Yes, I have some CD's that do that with the counter, as you say perfectly normal but I was wondering if the discs in question here could have been CDR's because some burning programs (older Windows Media Player for example) automatically insert a gap after each track. That doesn't play nicely with classical pieces where one movement leads into another because you get a sudden break for however many seconds.
Hi Mooly, Chris, Dan,
Thanks for the replies.
I actually own two Sony 33ESD CD players, one is standard and the other is modified with lots of new upgrade parts. The two players behave differently which is why I think there is a problem.
I've prepared two short videos which show the issue better.
https://goo.gl/photos/pxQMVXbQ4X47YnzY6
Note that on one of the players (the modded one) the counter reads up as you'd expect. However, the other player (the standard one)seems to jump back 3 seconds at the start of track two and then start playing again. Also you'll notice that you hear the first drum beat of track two, then silence for 3 secs and then track two starts to play normally.
I don't think this can be normal can it?
Thanks for the replies.
I actually own two Sony 33ESD CD players, one is standard and the other is modified with lots of new upgrade parts. The two players behave differently which is why I think there is a problem.
I've prepared two short videos which show the issue better.
https://goo.gl/photos/pxQMVXbQ4X47YnzY6
Note that on one of the players (the modded one) the counter reads up as you'd expect. However, the other player (the standard one)seems to jump back 3 seconds at the start of track two and then start playing again. Also you'll notice that you hear the first drum beat of track two, then silence for 3 secs and then track two starts to play normally.
I don't think this can be normal can it?
You look to have 'Auto Space' turned on
AARGH!
I'll get my coat........
Thanks Mooly, that's been driving me nuts!
I have replaced KSS150A with a 210A in my Sony 950 .After a small adjustment of F-F Bal , all CDR's work fine ,except an older fake CDR Verbatim , which the player doesn't recognize and doesn't play it ( on anothers Cdplayers works fine) .I tried to adjust all variable resistors , with no result. Should i try to adjust the variable resistor on the board of the laser unit ? Thanks.
Hi tinel231,
Do you have a proper laser power meter? Even if you do, that is one part you should never adjust. The laser will output higher power (but not much) until it suddenly stops as you adjust it. After that, it is a dead laser head.
I would suggest that your E-F balance might be off a bit, or maybe the focus offset since it won't even read the TOC.
Also, accept that each servo system has certain faults where it has more trouble tracking and other CD defects that it is particularly good at. They aren't all the same in this regard.
Now the big question. Did you use test equipment to set your player up, or did you try doing this by ear?
-Chris
Do you have a proper laser power meter? Even if you do, that is one part you should never adjust. The laser will output higher power (but not much) until it suddenly stops as you adjust it. After that, it is a dead laser head.
I would suggest that your E-F balance might be off a bit, or maybe the focus offset since it won't even read the TOC.
Also, accept that each servo system has certain faults where it has more trouble tracking and other CD defects that it is particularly good at. They aren't all the same in this regard.
Now the big question. Did you use test equipment to set your player up, or did you try doing this by ear?
-Chris
I don't have a laser power meter . I am an amateur (constrained)
Big question answer :Only by ear, for first time . Laser unit works fine with all CD's and CDR's (except this CD) , without any set up , neded just a small adjustement of F-F Bal. variable resistor.
Even if it works fine , I intend to test my cdplayer on oscilloscope acording service manual.
I don't have an oscilloscope , I have to ask a friend to help me with this.
My question is : why my cdplayer with old kss150a reading TOC of this CD , tried to play it (skipping , of course ) and after replacing 150a with 210a ,the result is '' disc memo= (no disc)'' ?! (only for this fake Verbatim)
I have am Marantz Cd53 (laser replaced ), Sony 750 (laser replaced -kss212) and Philips 720 (genuine laser ) = all played this fake CDR without problem..
Big question answer :Only by ear, for first time . Laser unit works fine with all CD's and CDR's (except this CD) , without any set up , neded just a small adjustement of F-F Bal. variable resistor.
Even if it works fine , I intend to test my cdplayer on oscilloscope acording service manual.
I don't have an oscilloscope , I have to ask a friend to help me with this.
My question is : why my cdplayer with old kss150a reading TOC of this CD , tried to play it (skipping , of course ) and after replacing 150a with 210a ,the result is '' disc memo= (no disc)'' ?! (only for this fake Verbatim)
I have am Marantz Cd53 (laser replaced ), Sony 750 (laser replaced -kss212) and Philips 720 (genuine laser ) = all played this fake CDR without problem..
An oscilloscope is absolutely vital for any CD servicing. It would be interesting for example to look at the recovered RF signal from the CDR's as played in another player, and see how the quality stacks up compared to a commercial Red Book disc. Things such as overall amplitude of the waveform and of the visual quality of the signal would be informative.
Heed the advice of Chris regarding laser power adjustments... do not alter unless you know what you are doing and have the means to check the results objectively.
Heed the advice of Chris regarding laser power adjustments... do not alter unless you know what you are doing and have the means to check the results objectively.
Hi tinel231,
They all need alignment if you have changed the mech or the laser. Every one of them.
Just because something works doesn't mean it works correctly. Alignment will ensure they perform the best, and that also affects sound quality too.
I am hoping your friend has experience (ie, has been trained) in servicing and alignment of CD players, along with the proper test discs. These are things he needs, and if he doesn't have them, he hasn't been trained. In that case, if you guys want to mess around with these, I'd ask you to refuse to work on anyone else's equipment.
Why? Because you don't even know what you don't know. There are too many hackers out there to begin with.
-Chris
They all need alignment if you have changed the mech or the laser. Every one of them.
Just because something works doesn't mean it works correctly. Alignment will ensure they perform the best, and that also affects sound quality too.
I am hoping your friend has experience (ie, has been trained) in servicing and alignment of CD players, along with the proper test discs. These are things he needs, and if he doesn't have them, he hasn't been trained. In that case, if you guys want to mess around with these, I'd ask you to refuse to work on anyone else's equipment.
Why? Because you don't even know what you don't know. There are too many hackers out there to begin with.
-Chris
My friend hasn't been trained to align laser units , but I have no choice ; I dont know anyone with an oscilloscope , or anyone able to replace/align a laser unit .
He works especially on TV's . ,and he uses the oscilloscope daily . I have service manual and YEDS-18 CD . The procedure seems to be pretty easy , and I want to try it.
Do you have some advice for me ?
He works especially on TV's . ,and he uses the oscilloscope daily . I have service manual and YEDS-18 CD . The procedure seems to be pretty easy , and I want to try it.
Do you have some advice for me ?
Hi tinel231,
Okay. I'm going to hope positively, and if you do follow the manual (do not get creative!), you should succeed.
Read the instructions enough times to know what you are expected to do. That means read them at least twice. Locate all your test points and adjustments before starting the first one. The oscilloscope will probably be set to 0.5 uS per division for time, and 0.5 V per division for vertical. Use Y1 input. Don't write in the manual, copy the page before you write. If you got the manual in a PDF, print all the pages that have to do with your setup and adjustment & test points.
I am assuming you have already cleaned and lubricated the mechanism before you start. Bring all your CD players and compare the others to the Sony. You may find the offsets need to be touched up. Remember, the E-F Balance is a critical and touchy adjustment. Very, very small rotation of the control or you'll easily end up at a spot where the machine doesn't play at all. You need a light touch and most of the controls were originally close to where they need to be. Be suspicious of any adjustment that ends up far away from where it was before any work was done.
-Chris
Okay. I'm going to hope positively, and if you do follow the manual (do not get creative!), you should succeed.
Read the instructions enough times to know what you are expected to do. That means read them at least twice. Locate all your test points and adjustments before starting the first one. The oscilloscope will probably be set to 0.5 uS per division for time, and 0.5 V per division for vertical. Use Y1 input. Don't write in the manual, copy the page before you write. If you got the manual in a PDF, print all the pages that have to do with your setup and adjustment & test points.
I am assuming you have already cleaned and lubricated the mechanism before you start. Bring all your CD players and compare the others to the Sony. You may find the offsets need to be touched up. Remember, the E-F Balance is a critical and touchy adjustment. Very, very small rotation of the control or you'll easily end up at a spot where the machine doesn't play at all. You need a light touch and most of the controls were originally close to where they need to be. Be suspicious of any adjustment that ends up far away from where it was before any work was done.
-Chris