Yes the bouncing is slightly worse when playing tracks towards the outside edge of the disc and there is also a little vertical run-out visible at the edge of a disc. You can see the bouncing is in sync with each revolution of the disc. I've taken short videos of the RF eye pattern on track 1 and track 14 on the same CD for comparison purposes, let me know if you'd like to see them.
I would estimate the vertical movement at the edge of the disc to be less than 1mm although I haven't measured it. My 'best' CD player is a Sony 337ESD which uses the same motor. I'll open the 337 up tomorrow and compare the amount of vertical wobble at the disc's edge.
The skipping is generally worse towards the last tracks of a CD which would fit with the CD wobble theory/bent spindle theory. As mentioned before some CD's will play OK right to the end and yet others won't play at all, not even on track one.
I would estimate the vertical movement at the edge of the disc to be less than 1mm although I haven't measured it. My 'best' CD player is a Sony 337ESD which uses the same motor. I'll open the 337 up tomorrow and compare the amount of vertical wobble at the disc's edge.
The skipping is generally worse towards the last tracks of a CD which would fit with the CD wobble theory/bent spindle theory. As mentioned before some CD's will play OK right to the end and yet others won't play at all, not even on track one.
Hi Mike,
Clean the turntable surface with alcohol. Before placing a CD in the tray, look at the center where it would sit on the table to make certain it's clean. On particle can be transferred onto the table where it may cause trouble until the table is cleaned or another CD picks it up. The only thing you could check with your other machine is the disc table height - assuming it uses the same head.
Increase the tracking gain while the CD is playing. At low settings you will see a lot of low frequency signal (vertical displacement). As you increase the gain, the vertical displacement will decrease, then at some point you will begin to see more high frequency noise and the hissing noise will increase. You want to be at the spot between the low frequency vertical displacement and the high frequency noise. The same method will set the focus gain where it ought to be as well. With these adjusted properly, the CD player should be able to handle slight shocks. If you turn the gains too high, the coils in the laser head can overheat. So can the driver ICs on the circuit board. Bad news as eventually something will die. With the gains set at the "happy spot", everything will run smoothly without any overheating.
My browser doesn't like links to other places right now, so I haven't watched your videos - sorry.
-Chris
Clean the turntable surface with alcohol. Before placing a CD in the tray, look at the center where it would sit on the table to make certain it's clean. On particle can be transferred onto the table where it may cause trouble until the table is cleaned or another CD picks it up. The only thing you could check with your other machine is the disc table height - assuming it uses the same head.
Look for lateral movement along the time scale (horizontal). The eye crossings near the right-hand side should remain in the same place horizontally. Vertical movement is expected to some degree. Horizontal movement is a time displacement (= jitter).
No.
Increase the tracking gain while the CD is playing. At low settings you will see a lot of low frequency signal (vertical displacement). As you increase the gain, the vertical displacement will decrease, then at some point you will begin to see more high frequency noise and the hissing noise will increase. You want to be at the spot between the low frequency vertical displacement and the high frequency noise. The same method will set the focus gain where it ought to be as well. With these adjusted properly, the CD player should be able to handle slight shocks. If you turn the gains too high, the coils in the laser head can overheat. So can the driver ICs on the circuit board. Bad news as eventually something will die. With the gains set at the "happy spot", everything will run smoothly without any overheating.
My browser doesn't like links to other places right now, so I haven't watched your videos - sorry.
-Chris
The disc run out could be a problem. You honestly shouldn't be able to detect any, and certainly not on a machine of this quality. What you are seeing is the lens trying to follow the disc surface, in fact if you look edge on at the disc when playing you will see the lens bobbing up and down as it maintains a constant 'disc to lens' focal distance. So little run out near the centre gets magnified a lot at the edge.
Another thought occurred to me regarding random skipping but its an odd one off case. I once had a Sony pickup that had a problem with contamination of the 'spigot' that the lens is supported on. These operate as a totally dry and interference fit bearing so don't even think about using lube. Unfortunately its next to impossible to remove the lens to clean this bearing because of the lens suspension, which on many Sony pickups is made of a rubbery neoprene type material and hooks onto the lens from underneath pulling it down.
Another thought occurred to me regarding random skipping but its an odd one off case. I once had a Sony pickup that had a problem with contamination of the 'spigot' that the lens is supported on. These operate as a totally dry and interference fit bearing so don't even think about using lube. Unfortunately its next to impossible to remove the lens to clean this bearing because of the lens suspension, which on many Sony pickups is made of a rubbery neoprene type material and hooks onto the lens from underneath pulling it down.
Good morning,
Thanks again folks for all the help.
I opened up my 337ESD this morning to see how that compared. The 337 has the KSS190A rather than BU1-E but lots of the parts are the same and they both use the same brushless motor and machined all metal platter.
Sure enough on the 337 the disc spins with no detectable vertical runout at the CD edge at all. Furthermore on the 337 the platter has a self adhesive rubbery/grippy ring/washer which is missing on the 333ESD. I haven't noticed a CD slip at all on the 333 but it would have affected the disc to lens height very slightly.
Closer inspection of the platter on the 333ESD reveals that it has a small but detectable amount of run-out, amplified greatly of course with distance from the spindle.
So, it looks like a bent/damaged spindle and/or platter is at least part of my problem.
In answer to your other questions:
RF eye pattern - I can't see any horizontal movement indicating jitter, only a bit of vertical bounce.
Platter - I've cleaned this carefully with IPA but I think it is running out of alignment (see above comments).
Tracking gain - Thanks Chris, your instructions were very helpful. I'm now feeling quite confident about my adjustment of this.
Focus gain - I'm still not 100% on this. The trace is so confusing and noisy I find it hand to judge the 'sweet spot'.
Lens suspension - I actually managed to remove the upper lens completely yesterday to clean the lower surface of the focus lens and the top of the underlying lens. VERY delicate work and not for the faint hearted! The spigot seems to run freely.
Thanks again folks for all the help.
I opened up my 337ESD this morning to see how that compared. The 337 has the KSS190A rather than BU1-E but lots of the parts are the same and they both use the same brushless motor and machined all metal platter.
Sure enough on the 337 the disc spins with no detectable vertical runout at the CD edge at all. Furthermore on the 337 the platter has a self adhesive rubbery/grippy ring/washer which is missing on the 333ESD. I haven't noticed a CD slip at all on the 333 but it would have affected the disc to lens height very slightly.
Closer inspection of the platter on the 333ESD reveals that it has a small but detectable amount of run-out, amplified greatly of course with distance from the spindle.
So, it looks like a bent/damaged spindle and/or platter is at least part of my problem.
In answer to your other questions:
RF eye pattern - I can't see any horizontal movement indicating jitter, only a bit of vertical bounce.
Platter - I've cleaned this carefully with IPA but I think it is running out of alignment (see above comments).
Tracking gain - Thanks Chris, your instructions were very helpful. I'm now feeling quite confident about my adjustment of this.
Focus gain - I'm still not 100% on this. The trace is so confusing and noisy I find it hand to judge the 'sweet spot'.
Lens suspension - I actually managed to remove the upper lens completely yesterday to clean the lower surface of the focus lens and the top of the underlying lens. VERY delicate work and not for the faint hearted! The spigot seems to run freely.
For the focus gain try listening to the pickup itself. As you increase the gain you will (might 
) hear white noise generated by the focus coils. Back the gain down just a fraction from the point the noise appears.
Tracking and focus gain have a huge margin on a good player meaning that once a player is tracking a disc then it shouldn't easily let go.
You've done well cleaning the lens
I wonder if that is why the RF seemed a little better in amplitude.
I used to have a Sony D50 (the original) discman and that used a brushless motor with a solid machined platter. There was no rubber or anything like that to grip the disc so I suspect what you see is normal for this player. The run-out you shouldn't see though, so it does appear there is an issue somewhere, either something bent as you say or maybe wear in the bearing... a bit unlikely perhaps. Can you feel any sideways movement ?
As you are down to experimenting with this (and Chris, look away now) then it might be worth as test to see what happens, to try altering the value of the series resistor feeding the one ended focus bias control. The values aren't marked on the diagram because its not intended to be a repairable item. If you could lower the value slightly of the feed to the pot end that the wiper ends up at, then it might give you a bit more range and allow the optimum point to be reached and then past. Something I think does not happen at he moment.
Things like that aren't a 'fix', they are a bodge because it doesn't address the reason why its like that, but, it can be useful as a diagnostic to see what is happening.
) hear white noise generated by the focus coils. Back the gain down just a fraction from the point the noise appears.Tracking and focus gain have a huge margin on a good player meaning that once a player is tracking a disc then it shouldn't easily let go.
You've done well cleaning the lens
I wonder if that is why the RF seemed a little better in amplitude.I used to have a Sony D50 (the original) discman and that used a brushless motor with a solid machined platter. There was no rubber or anything like that to grip the disc so I suspect what you see is normal for this player. The run-out you shouldn't see though, so it does appear there is an issue somewhere, either something bent as you say or maybe wear in the bearing... a bit unlikely perhaps. Can you feel any sideways movement ?
As you are down to experimenting with this (and Chris, look away now
) then it might be worth as test to see what happens, to try altering the value of the series resistor feeding the one ended focus bias control. The values aren't marked on the diagram because its not intended to be a repairable item. If you could lower the value slightly of the feed to the pot end that the wiper ends up at, then it might give you a bit more range and allow the optimum point to be reached and then past. Something I think does not happen at he moment.Things like that aren't a 'fix', they are a bodge because it doesn't address the reason why its like that, but, it can be useful as a diagnostic to see what is happening.
Here's a quick photo of the platter on the 337ESD (KSS190A). Note the rubbery ring on the platter.
And here's the 333ESD. Apparently the same machined part but no rubber ring. Normal on this player or is the ring missing? I don't think it actually matters since the disc doesn't slip anyway.
Out of curiosity I checked the RF eye pattern on the 337 and it was as you'd expect with the amplitude increasing up to an optimum and then falling off again with the optimum setting being in the middle range of the trimpot.
Yes Mooly, I did indeed clean the lens after taking the first RF readings so that would explain the small improvement.
I'm up for the trying the resistor swap since I've nothing to lose really but do you think the RF is the issue or is it more likely to be the spindle/disc run-out/wobble?
.....Or both I suppose.
If I'm feeling brave I could do a motor and/or platter transplant to see it that cures it but I don't want to risk messing up the 337 which has always been flawless.
And here's the 333ESD. Apparently the same machined part but no rubber ring. Normal on this player or is the ring missing? I don't think it actually matters since the disc doesn't slip anyway.
Out of curiosity I checked the RF eye pattern on the 337 and it was as you'd expect with the amplitude increasing up to an optimum and then falling off again with the optimum setting being in the middle range of the trimpot.
Yes Mooly, I did indeed clean the lens after taking the first RF readings so that would explain the small improvement.
I'm up for the trying the resistor swap since I've nothing to lose really but do you think the RF is the issue or is it more likely to be the spindle/disc run-out/wobble?
.....Or both I suppose.
If I'm feeling brave I could do a motor and/or platter transplant to see it that cures it but I don't want to risk messing up the 337 which has always been flawless.
When a player has problems everything seems to be critical such that you can never get it quite right. Conversely a 'good' player seems to allow misalignment of one or more settings without the end result being a problem... if that makes sense.
For something like this, you have to look at each issue on its merits and the run-out and focus bias are two areas that together could cause a problem.
Your lens clean seems to have brought the amplitude up by around 20% or so, that's a big improvement. Every little thing helps on something like this.
I don't think the platter is missing anything, the Discman I had looked identical.
For something like this, you have to look at each issue on its merits and the run-out and focus bias are two areas that together could cause a problem.
Your lens clean seems to have brought the amplitude up by around 20% or so, that's a big improvement. Every little thing helps on something like this.
I don't think the platter is missing anything, the Discman I had looked identical.
As you are down to experimenting with this (and Chris, look away now
Sorry, you'll have to spell that out for me. Do you mean R101 and R102? Or the single resistor just right of where pin 18 marked 'Focus Bias' is marked on the schematic?
R101 and R102 are 18K.
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Yes, those resistors, R101 and R102.
Whichever one the wiper of the preset (wiper is the middle leg) is in contact with, is the one to lower a little. That will give a little more adjustment in the direction you want. If they are 18k then I would say try a 15k first and then 10k. Depends what value the preset is really but all you are doing is giving a bit more range to the pot.
And you've no need to unsolder it, just tag something across. An 82k or 100k would do for starters.
Whichever one the wiper of the preset (wiper is the middle leg) is in contact with, is the one to lower a little. That will give a little more adjustment in the direction you want. If they are 18k then I would say try a 15k first and then 10k. Depends what value the preset is really but all you are doing is giving a bit more range to the pot.
And you've no need to unsolder it, just tag something across. An 82k or 100k would do for starters.
Hi Mooly,
I don't have a problem with what you are suggesting, but you are into an area where trained technicians think twice before trying. Given that you are directing Mike, all I will say is that you (Mike) should exercise the utmost care while doing this. If the focus is that far off, then there is another issue causing it. That issue is clearly the table height, or the height of the head. So as was mentioned, you aren't fixing the problem, but rather attempting to compensate for it.
The disc table looks like it did not have a rubber ring on it.
-Chris
Grrrrrr!
I don't have a problem with what you are suggesting, but you are into an area where trained technicians think twice before trying. Given that you are directing Mike, all I will say is that you (Mike) should exercise the utmost care while doing this. If the focus is that far off, then there is another issue causing it. That issue is clearly the table height, or the height of the head. So as was mentioned, you aren't fixing the problem, but rather attempting to compensate for it.
The disc table looks like it did not have a rubber ring on it.
-Chris
I promise I'll be careful Chris and thanks again for your input.
I've ordered some resistors, we can decide later whether I give it try or not.
I've already tried increasing the table height in gradual increments of 0.1mm. The gap between the base of the table and the chassis is 0.25mm and I've tried going as far up as a gap of 0.8mm (0.55mm up from where it is now). I checked the RF eye pattern after each 0.1mm increase in table height and it didn't seem to affect the setting needed to achieve max amplitude on the Focus bias trimpot. i.e. the max amplitude was with the trimpot on its extreme end of adjustment and the RF amplitude didn't go up at all. At 0.8mm the player stopped spinning the disc to read the TOC so I stopped there and lowered the table back to the starting point. I didn't make any other adjustments during all this.
Is it worth trying lowering the table height slightly from where it is now? I could go down maybe as much as 0.2mm.
I'm also very happy to try increasing the table height again and double checking everything if you're convinced that's the way to go and my measurements/observations were flawed in some way.
I can see no way of altering the laser pick-up height, only the table height seems to be adjustable.
If anyone reading this has a CD player with the same laser/transport and would be kind enough to measure the table height it would be incredibly useful to me.
I've ordered some resistors, we can decide later whether I give it try or not.
I've already tried increasing the table height in gradual increments of 0.1mm. The gap between the base of the table and the chassis is 0.25mm and I've tried going as far up as a gap of 0.8mm (0.55mm up from where it is now). I checked the RF eye pattern after each 0.1mm increase in table height and it didn't seem to affect the setting needed to achieve max amplitude on the Focus bias trimpot. i.e. the max amplitude was with the trimpot on its extreme end of adjustment and the RF amplitude didn't go up at all. At 0.8mm the player stopped spinning the disc to read the TOC so I stopped there and lowered the table back to the starting point. I didn't make any other adjustments during all this.
Is it worth trying lowering the table height slightly from where it is now? I could go down maybe as much as 0.2mm.
I'm also very happy to try increasing the table height again and double checking everything if you're convinced that's the way to go and my measurements/observations were flawed in some way.
I can see no way of altering the laser pick-up height, only the table height seems to be adjustable.
If anyone reading this has a CD player with the same laser/transport and would be kind enough to measure the table height it would be incredibly useful to me.
Hi Mike,
-Chris
Yes, I would. It is entirely possible it was installed high at some point in time. In fact, I was about to ask that you try lowering the turntable.
Actually, I think you're doing a fine job. You are just hearing thoughts that technicians have to themselves. Since you are our hands, those thoughts have to be told to you. What you are hearing is that we know something isn't right with your setup. That's that valuable little voice that drives some folks to uncover the actual fault.
The position of the slide rails will directly change the distance from the objective lens to the CD surface. If they aren't fully seated, or have something trapped underneath, they can end up either higher or lower depending on what side of the chassis they are on.
-Chris
I've never even seen a BU-1 pickup in the flesh
When you alter the turntable height, the focus drive voltage that positions the lens in the vertical plane changes. If you move the disc further away by raising the platter, then the average voltage across the focus coils has to increase to keep the distance at the correct point. If the platter is raised 1mm then the lens operates 1mm higher. Always superimposed on that is the voltage fluctuation needed to follow the disc irregularities such as your run out problem. Ultimately though, if its 'in the zone' then the RF shouldn't be affected. If its out of the zone then you end up either reaching the mechanical limits of lens travel and/or taking the lens suspension away from its optimum working range which could impact tracking of damaged discs.
Your two big big problems are the run out which is mechanical I'm afraid. Something is worn or bent. The other is the focus bias problem and I really do suspect an internal issue with the pickup for that.
This evening I tried lowering the platter down from 0.25mm to 0.15mm, then 0.1mm and finally 0.05mm. At each increment I checked to see what was the situation with the focus bias/RF eye pattern. There was no change; max RF amplitude was still at the end of the trimpot and the amplitude didn't get any higher. In fact at 0.05mm the CD started touching the pick-up.
I've checked the guide rails and all the securing screws I could find. I can't see any issues that may have altered the guide rail height.
Out of curiosity I've just checked the Focus bias setting on another one of my CD players, this time a Sony 227ESD. Interestingly I found that the best RF eye pattern amplitude was achieved with the trimpot very VERY nearly at the end of its adjustment. It looks like the same trimpot as on the 333 and the surrounding resistors are also the same value.
Now I know that we're talking about a different CD player which also uses a different laser (KSS-151A) but....It's another Sony from the same period and suggests to me that it might be the case that on the 333 the trimpot just doesn't quite have enough range of adjustment to get to the point where the RF eye pattern amplitude starts reducing again after peaking.
I've got to admit that it's kinda tempting just to fit a nice new sealed multi-turn trim pot with a greater range (OK don't kill me).
I've ordered a 1/4w 1% metal film resistor assortment kit, I'll report back when it gets here.
I think at the end of the day the CD platter run-out is probably the key problem but it would be nice to know we've got the RF eye pattern at the optimal setting to give the player the best possible chance.
I've checked the guide rails and all the securing screws I could find. I can't see any issues that may have altered the guide rail height.
Out of curiosity I've just checked the Focus bias setting on another one of my CD players, this time a Sony 227ESD. Interestingly I found that the best RF eye pattern amplitude was achieved with the trimpot very VERY nearly at the end of its adjustment. It looks like the same trimpot as on the 333 and the surrounding resistors are also the same value.
Now I know that we're talking about a different CD player which also uses a different laser (KSS-151A) but....It's another Sony from the same period and suggests to me that it might be the case that on the 333 the trimpot just doesn't quite have enough range of adjustment to get to the point where the RF eye pattern amplitude starts reducing again after peaking.
I've got to admit that it's kinda tempting just to fit a nice new sealed multi-turn trim pot with a greater range (OK don't kill me
).I've ordered a 1/4w 1% metal film resistor assortment kit, I'll report back when it gets here.
I think at the end of the day the CD platter run-out is probably the key problem but it would be nice to know we've got the RF eye pattern at the optimal setting to give the player the best possible chance.
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Well actually a multi turn wouldn't give any more adjustment range, just finer resolution. If you look at the circuit, the two resistors and the pot form a resistive chain. So you can calculate the voltage at each point in the chain using ohms law. The wiper just taps off a part of the voltage that is developed across the pot end terminals. So if the wiper is at one end and the optimum result hasn't been reached, then we need to make the wiper see a bit more voltage (or a bit less depending which end it is at) and we do that by altering the appropriate resistor to 'pull' that end of the pot a bit higher or lower .
Hi Mike,
Mooly has it dead on the money. It's the range of adjustment and not the resolution of the control. I see you changing resistors once they arrive. What you have said about the other Sony makes me think they just didn't design that part of the circuit correctly.
As for the wobble. Don't over-tighten the set screw. That can warp the sleeve and even the shaft enough to cause this fault. Set the table where you found it, and use some lock bond after tightening the set screw so it's firm but not cranked down. i hope that clears some of the wobble up for you.
The KSS-151a is a nice head. Some really nice machines used it, the best Denon machines did. So that machine is probably an older, but very good CD player.
-Chris
Mooly has it dead on the money. It's the range of adjustment and not the resolution of the control. I see you changing resistors once they arrive. What you have said about the other Sony makes me think they just didn't design that part of the circuit correctly.
As for the wobble. Don't over-tighten the set screw. That can warp the sleeve and even the shaft enough to cause this fault. Set the table where you found it, and use some lock bond after tightening the set screw so it's firm but not cranked down. i hope that clears some of the wobble up for you.
The KSS-151a is a nice head. Some really nice machines used it, the best Denon machines did. So that machine is probably an older, but very good CD player.
-Chris
Mooly's resistor swap suggestion has worked perfectly. I reduced the value of R102 from 18K to 15K and it has put the optimum Focus bias setting nicely in the middle range of adjustment of the potentiometer.
To be honest it hasn't given me much if any improvement in the Pk-Pk voltage but at least I now know that I have an optimal setting. Thanks for a great suggestion Mooly!
Yes the KSS-151A is a nice head, it's sort of a poor man's version of the BU1-E in plastic rather than cast alloy. The 227ESD is a real bargain second hand and will outperform many very expensive machines.
My best CD player is a 337ESD which is the big brother of the 227ESD with twin TDA1541A DACs massively over-speced and over-built with the drop dead gorgeous KSS-190A head mounted in the 'Gibraltar' sub chassis (the Gibraltar sub chassis is a special anti vibration composite developed by Sony).
To be honest it hasn't given me much if any improvement in the Pk-Pk voltage but at least I now know that I have an optimal setting. Thanks for a great suggestion Mooly!
Yes the KSS-151A is a nice head, it's sort of a poor man's version of the BU1-E in plastic rather than cast alloy. The 227ESD is a real bargain second hand and will outperform many very expensive machines.
My best CD player is a 337ESD which is the big brother of the 227ESD with twin TDA1541A DACs massively over-speced and over-built with the drop dead gorgeous KSS-190A head mounted in the 'Gibraltar' sub chassis (the Gibraltar sub chassis is a special anti vibration composite developed by Sony).
Hi Mike,
Denon also had a similar sub-chassis that used composites in their high end players. It wouldn't surprise me to find that it was a complete Sony transport. Beautifully executed with the brushless motor and the other goodies you'd expect to find. I'm pretty sure that some other brands also used that setup.
Your resistor adjustment was pretty definitive. You are looking at an engineering mistake that wasn't corrected. That is exactly what Sony is like - hide the mistakes and deny their existence. At least in Canada that is how they deal with these problems.
-Chris
Denon also had a similar sub-chassis that used composites in their high end players. It wouldn't surprise me to find that it was a complete Sony transport. Beautifully executed with the brushless motor and the other goodies you'd expect to find. I'm pretty sure that some other brands also used that setup.
Your resistor adjustment was pretty definitive. You are looking at an engineering mistake that wasn't corrected. That is exactly what Sony is like - hide the mistakes and deny their existence. At least in Canada that is how they deal with these problems.
-Chris
Hi Mooly, Chris,
I'm hoping one of you might be able to help me with a minor but frustrating problem I'm having with my main CDP, a Sony 337ESD (KSS-190A).
The issue occurs when one track of a CD has finished and a new track is starting. At this point the player will hesitate for a few moments before playback resumes. When this happens the counter will read -0.03 and then count down/up -0.02 then -0.01 and then when it gets to 0.00 playback resumes. Once it has got past this glitch playback is perfect throughout the rest of the track.
I have checked the tracking gain, focus gain, PLL frequency, EF balance and focus bias as per the service manual but the problem persists.
It isn't noticeable on CD's where there is a natural silent pause between tracks but on CD's where one track seamlessly continues into the next it's very annoying.
I hope my description of the problem makes sense, if it doesn't I'll try to upload a video clip.
Any suggestions?
I'm hoping one of you might be able to help me with a minor but frustrating problem I'm having with my main CDP, a Sony 337ESD (KSS-190A).
The issue occurs when one track of a CD has finished and a new track is starting. At this point the player will hesitate for a few moments before playback resumes. When this happens the counter will read -0.03 and then count down/up -0.02 then -0.01 and then when it gets to 0.00 playback resumes. Once it has got past this glitch playback is perfect throughout the rest of the track.
I have checked the tracking gain, focus gain, PLL frequency, EF balance and focus bias as per the service manual but the problem persists.
It isn't noticeable on CD's where there is a natural silent pause between tracks but on CD's where one track seamlessly continues into the next it's very annoying.
I hope my description of the problem makes sense, if it doesn't I'll try to upload a video clip.
Any suggestions?