I decided to get myself busy with another project and figured I would post some of the progress and eventual results
There has been much I’ve learned from this forum and there is so much I still don’t know and since I haven’t seen many posts about these drivers then maybe this can be my contribution to others.
My goal was to build some more sensitive speakers than my MA-10p’s because I’d like to build a low power tube amp, but the challenge is my room isn’t very large and can’t have huge speakers.
Scott posted some plans on his Tamaraw design for the Sonido 175A and I decided to give them a try.
I just got the speakers, here are some pictures of these.
Wish me luck.
There has been much I’ve learned from this forum and there is so much I still don’t know and since I haven’t seen many posts about these drivers then maybe this can be my contribution to others.
My goal was to build some more sensitive speakers than my MA-10p’s because I’d like to build a low power tube amp, but the challenge is my room isn’t very large and can’t have huge speakers.
Scott posted some plans on his Tamaraw design for the Sonido 175A and I decided to give them a try.
I just got the speakers, here are some pictures of these.
Wish me luck.
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It’s going to be hard to compete. I love my 10p’s.
I’ve built a few kits, nothing too special or expensive, but the 10p build sounds the best by a large margin so far.
I’ve built a few kits, nothing too special or expensive, but the 10p build sounds the best by a large margin so far.
😀Hmm, can't find the VC diameter of either driver, but to the first approximation of a driver's wide range [SQ] performance capability, the smaller the better, so based on as good as you can measure, which one 'wins' or is it a 'flip of a coin' so far?
GM
I kinda suck at cutting perfectly straight pieces of wood on a table saw no matter how hard I try, so this was challenging because the enclosure required two layers for extra stiffness so hopefully it fits perfectly.
Here is a link to the felt I bought. Seems like it should be cheaper but I guess not.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48544829?rItem=48544829
Here is a link to the felt I bought. Seems like it should be cheaper but I guess not.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48544829?rItem=48544829
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So far I haven’t listened to the speakers yet except just checking to make sure they worked. There was a bit of debris that was causing a scratching noise when the woofer moved but I was able to clear it out so now it sounds good.
I’m half expecting these drivers to be hot on the top end, or beaming. But I actually have no idea what beaming sounds like so this will be fun to learn the pros and cons of this type of driver.
I’m half expecting these drivers to be hot on the top end, or beaming. But I actually have no idea what beaming sounds like so this will be fun to learn the pros and cons of this type of driver.
Beaming sounds like the room is more involved at some frequencies than others.
In this case, I'd expect a narrowing directivity towards the treble, so while the lows and mids will have quite a lot of room interaction, the treble will be more "direct" and less "spacious".
IME, controlled directivity over a wide range is the way to go - check out the work by Earl Geddes for more.
Chris
In this case, I'd expect a narrowing directivity towards the treble, so while the lows and mids will have quite a lot of room interaction, the treble will be more "direct" and less "spacious".
IME, controlled directivity over a wide range is the way to go - check out the work by Earl Geddes for more.
Chris
Thanks. That makes sense to me. My current listening room sucks the bass out of my music from 80hz - 150hz from my normal listening position.
I will definitely read some of those references.
I will definitely read some of those references.
Question:
I feel like when I mount the drivers To the enclosure and screw it down, that the ring doesn’t seal and there could be air leaking out. Is this a real issue to worry about?
Here is a picture of the inside that will screw down onto the enclosure. Notice how it’s not a solid piece of metal, it’s inlaid, or beveled (dont know the right word) so that only a think ring could actually seal.
Should I be worried? Is there some I can attach to it to create a seal? Like a thin strip of rubber, felt, or something?
I feel like when I mount the drivers To the enclosure and screw it down, that the ring doesn’t seal and there could be air leaking out. Is this a real issue to worry about?
Here is a picture of the inside that will screw down onto the enclosure. Notice how it’s not a solid piece of metal, it’s inlaid, or beveled (dont know the right word) so that only a think ring could actually seal.
Should I be worried? Is there some I can attach to it to create a seal? Like a thin strip of rubber, felt, or something?
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Put some selfstick weatherstrip on top of rib. Use the foam kind, the softer and finer you can find. Not rubber or neoprene, the best is low density foam, the cheapest one.
If you are worried about bending the basket, put a washer in each hole between enclosure and chassis. Hope this helps 🙂
If you are worried about bending the basket, put a washer in each hole between enclosure and chassis. Hope this helps 🙂
I usually go for the neoprene foam. Sticky-back, just cut to length and stick down.
I'd recommend sticking to the cabinet, not the driver.
Chris
I'd recommend sticking to the cabinet, not the driver.
Chris
Finally finished everything. They turned out really nice looking.
I used a walnut peel n stick veneer, an ultra flat water based poly for the finish and got some brass engraved piece off Etsy to put on the front of the speaker. The terminals on the back are from parts express.
Now I just need to listen to them for a while and do some measurements. Problem is that it’s smoking hot in San Diego this weekend and class A amps are out of the question so I can only try out my Modulus-86.
I used a walnut peel n stick veneer, an ultra flat water based poly for the finish and got some brass engraved piece off Etsy to put on the front of the speaker. The terminals on the back are from parts express.
Now I just need to listen to them for a while and do some measurements. Problem is that it’s smoking hot in San Diego this weekend and class A amps are out of the question so I can only try out my Modulus-86.
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Mrshazbot,
Congratulations on your build - the speakers are looking very nice.
Looking forward to your listening impressions.
Congratulations on your build - the speakers are looking very nice.
Looking forward to your listening impressions.
Ok so I’ve been listening to them for the last few weeks and getting to know their strengths and weaknesses. Overall I’m really happy how they sound. They are extremely crisp and clear sounding. The amount of detail on the top end is pretty crazy to hear. You can definitely hear the difference between good recordings and mediocre ones. The most impressive thing about them is how the sound takes up the entire room. In the mid range it sounds like instruments or sounds are coming from the half way between the speakers, slightly behind them. The high end is more directional - coming from the left or right speaker.
How do they compare to the MA 10p? There is a link to some pics in my signature. The MAs sound fantastic also. Their strengths compared to the Sonido are in the low end and the mid. I only really need a sub when listening to electronic music and it only really adds a little extra umf.
The sonido strengths are on the upper mods to high end. They are extremely detailed On the high end and that isn’t the 10ps strength. The negative is two things%. First, the low end. I definitely need a sub. The second thing is that sometimes it sounds like the treble is too hot. There is also some strange resonance going on around 575hz that might be reflections, I don’t know. The most baffling thing are the measurements but perhaps I just don’t know how to do it properly.
I can fix all the shortcoming with a filter or EQ but I would love to figure out how to have a flatter response without EQ.
How do they compare to the MA 10p? There is a link to some pics in my signature. The MAs sound fantastic also. Their strengths compared to the Sonido are in the low end and the mid. I only really need a sub when listening to electronic music and it only really adds a little extra umf.
The sonido strengths are on the upper mods to high end. They are extremely detailed On the high end and that isn’t the 10ps strength. The negative is two things%. First, the low end. I definitely need a sub. The second thing is that sometimes it sounds like the treble is too hot. There is also some strange resonance going on around 575hz that might be reflections, I don’t know. The most baffling thing are the measurements but perhaps I just don’t know how to do it properly.
I can fix all the shortcoming with a filter or EQ but I would love to figure out how to have a flatter response without EQ.
I’d like to post some measurements and ask for some feedback but I am curious what is the best way to analyze the results?
1. Measure from listening position?
2. 1 meter, straight on?
3. 1cm front, 1cm port, summed responses?
Below are some of those result.
The first two have my sub on, the last not. If the speakers are in my listening room, against the wall and in the corner, they kick out bass down to 55 hz but then drops off.
1. Measure from listening position?
2. 1 meter, straight on?
3. 1cm front, 1cm port, summed responses?
Below are some of those result.
The first two have my sub on, the last not. If the speakers are in my listening room, against the wall and in the corner, they kick out bass down to 55 hz but then drops off.
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I was reading about baffle step correction and my front baffle is 300cm so I think it effects everything 380hz plus so maybe a BSC to pull the top end down?
Thanks for your feedback.
Thanks for your feedback.
Depends on what you're wanting to know, though in room one normally measures quite close [<1/4" if possible and vents, horn mouths ~1/4" inside] and sum to keep as much of the room's modes out of it or at the LP to 'dial it in'.
Definitely need BSC around 380 Hz like you say.
GM
Definitely need BSC around 380 Hz like you say.
GM