The problem of dips at 100hz and 170hz, I think a half is driver (because 9710 and Klangphilm not big) and a half is my TL.
This actually looks pretty good. The dips at 100Hz and 170Hz are probably room-modes? Or are they inherent to the TL design? I think that was what was missing to my ears. The harmonic distortion above 5kHz is unusually high - is that normal for a Fostex with a whizzer cone maybe?
I have a few plans for design improvements, When I have the results are good I will inform to you.
Here is the enclosure for driver 5inch. If you use driver RFT 2323 or similar, can listen to good frequency range 45Hz.
I used unit mm. You can use MDF or Okal 15mm.
You must be stuck to the "sound absorption material" for in side surface to avoid reflections sound echoes of parallel surfaces.
Here is enclousure for 13cm.
You should take a look at Akabak software to model your TL's and optimize. That will smooth out those dips and get a balanced response. I can help you with some basic scripts that will serve as a template. One of the easiest things to try is to make the fold such that the driver is located 1/3rd distance along TL from the closed end. The other thing is to either make a tapering cross sectional as you get closer to the exit vent. This will lower fb while reducing line length for a more compact box. Many examples of this are used. Alternately, you can expand towards the vent and then apply a constriction to reduce the cross sectional area at the vent. This is the so called ML-TQWT design. It provides several benefits of smoother response and deeper bass extension with a smaller box. The Metronome and Karlsonator are examples of this.
Thank xrk971. But I do not like to use the software, because the software is an algorithm, not an idea. I see in Karlsonator designs, from 50hz to up is good but range<50hz was not good. I accept range mid bass weak, but range bass was very impressive, I can hear range 35hz very impressive.
Vvxuan,
I think you may have misunderstood how akabak or any simulation package works. Akabak is software but it does nothing by itself - it is a tool for you to test your ideas on computer to optimize before committing resources of time and money to building physical prototype. Akabak unleashes you ideas and creativity by letting you try new things.
Akabak is not an algorithm to make a speaker a specific way. It is nothing more than a way to connect elements such as chambers, ducts, waveguides, horns, drivers, and their environment together in a 1d node-to-node topology. The way you connect them and how creative you can be is up to you. In fact, with Akabak you can even invent new, heretofore unseen acoustic alignments.
With Karlsonator, I have designed using Akabak a variant that reaches 20Hz. Look at the MOAK (Mother of all Karlsonators) thread in subwoofer forum. 50Hz is not a limitation of Karlsonator - that just happens to be bass extension optimized for dual TC9FD's. When used with 8in or 12in driver the Karlsonator is tuned for 40Hz.
Here is an example of Akabak taken to an extreme for a 3 way synergy horn coupled with a bass horn - all designed and opiltimized in Akabak before construction.
I think you may have misunderstood how akabak or any simulation package works. Akabak is software but it does nothing by itself - it is a tool for you to test your ideas on computer to optimize before committing resources of time and money to building physical prototype. Akabak unleashes you ideas and creativity by letting you try new things.
Akabak is not an algorithm to make a speaker a specific way. It is nothing more than a way to connect elements such as chambers, ducts, waveguides, horns, drivers, and their environment together in a 1d node-to-node topology. The way you connect them and how creative you can be is up to you. In fact, with Akabak you can even invent new, heretofore unseen acoustic alignments.
With Karlsonator, I have designed using Akabak a variant that reaches 20Hz. Look at the MOAK (Mother of all Karlsonators) thread in subwoofer forum. 50Hz is not a limitation of Karlsonator - that just happens to be bass extension optimized for dual TC9FD's. When used with 8in or 12in driver the Karlsonator is tuned for 40Hz.
Here is an example of Akabak taken to an extreme for a 3 way synergy horn coupled with a bass horn - all designed and opiltimized in Akabak before construction.
Last edited:
Oh, that Interesting...I will try it. You can send to me link download this software? Thank you verry murch!Vvxuan,
I think you may have misunderstood how akabak or any simulation package works. Akabak is software but it does nothing by itself - it is a tool for you to test your ideas on computer to optimize before committing resources of time and money to building physical prototype. Akabak unleashes you ideas and creativity by letting you try new things.
Akabak is not an algorithm to make a speaker a specific way. It is nothing more than a way to connect elements such as chambers, ducts, waveguides, horns, drivers, and their environment together in a 1d node-to-node topology. The way you connect them and how creative you can be is up to you. In fact, with Akabak you can even invent new, heretofore unseen acoustic alignments.
With Karlsonator, I have designed using Akabak a variant that reaches 20Hz. Look at the MOAK (Mother of all Karlsonators) thread in subwoofer forum. 50Hz is not a limitation of Karlsonator - that just happens to be bass extension optimized for dual TC9FD's. When used with 8in or 12in driver the Karlsonator is tuned for 40Hz.
Here is an example of Akabak taken to an extreme for a 3 way synergy horn coupled with a bass horn - all designed and opiltimized in Akabak before construction.
Akabak download here:
Akabak
Tips on how to use:
AkAbak for Dummies
- AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Akabak tutorial by Don Hills:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/90362-akabak-simulator-2.html#post1840180
Let me know if you need help getting started - I can get you a basic TL script describing your TL.
Akabak
Tips on how to use:
AkAbak for Dummies
- AVS | Home Theater Discussions And ReviewsAkabak tutorial by Don Hills:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/90362-akabak-simulator-2.html#post1840180
Let me know if you need help getting started - I can get you a basic TL script describing your TL.
Wild Burro Audio Labs - Fullrange Speakers - The Betsy & Betsy-K Drivers
Hello vvxuan,
Will a betsey k work well on your 8" design? Here is the link of the drivers...I watchex your videos and im very interested in building your design...
Thank you for posting your designs...
Hello vvxuan,
Will a betsey k work well on your 8" design? Here is the link of the drivers...I watchex your videos and im very interested in building your design...
Thank you for posting your designs...
Dear marantz1
I'm sorry, I don't have any driver the same of you for my test, but I believe your driver can worked good in my design, because, I design follow physical principles - not follow the datasheet of manufacturers
I started a pair of these boxes for 6 inch speakers yesterday. One is almost finished and the other about half way finished. I do not have anything similar to the damping material used by Vvxuan so will try Grey carpet felt underlay. I have several pairs of speakers in this approximate size category (6 inch to 6 -1/2 inch) so will try them all. Also plan on making a replaceable baffle to mount the speakers since obviously some are smaller or larger than others.
Other idea I have is to leave one side removable so I can use different damping materials or even add some stuffing.
I listened to Vvxuzn's youtube videos. I was impressed.
Andrew
Other idea I have is to leave one side removable so I can use different damping materials or even add some stuffing.
I listened to Vvxuzn's youtube videos. I was impressed.
Andrew
Hi VVXUAN,very interesting design for the Klangfilm driver. I have Siemens L307 (6 rug lap 15M). This is 9.6" total diameter, 8.46" cone diameter. Is this similar to your Klangfilm speaker? I am interested in your design TL design and I am interested in seeing what is possible without losing midrange quality which is very good with this speaker. Thanks!
Hello Vvxuan,
I see where you have 2 designs for 6 inch speakers. One is slimmer with the driver and port centred in the speaker and another design which is a wider box with the port offset to one side. I have built the slimmer version with the speaker and port centred. Do they both sound the same or do they sound different?
Thanks
Andrew
I see where you have 2 designs for 6 inch speakers. One is slimmer with the driver and port centred in the speaker and another design which is a wider box with the port offset to one side. I have built the slimmer version with the speaker and port centred. Do they both sound the same or do they sound different?
Thanks
Andrew
Thank Andrewbee!
1. I think this material easy to find, and very cheap. You see some link:
Sound absorbing cotton egg eco friendly cotton corrugated sound insulation cotton wall sound absorbing materials sound absorbing on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
or
MuteX soundproofing - Acoustic Soundproof Material for Home Rooms, Studios, and Business
or
www.soundcontrolservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28_36&products_id=45
or any material that has similar effects
2. "Also plan on making a replaceable baffle to mount the speakers since obviously some are smaller or larger than others." You can carry out this work. Fist, you cut the hole on the box with diameter max (follow your driver max). Then you use the piece of wood 25x25cm and you cut the hole fit driver you want try it.
You see my piece of wood
3. "Other idea I have is to leave one side removable so I can use different damping materials or even add some stuffing". Ok, but, you to make it very airtight at the coupling position, you must use rubber rings or silicon rings and screw of wood - This issue is extremely important, because if not airtight, It will loss range bass.
You know the Flute.
If you close all key - you have bass note. When you open any key you have higher note. The key nearer the lip plate - higher note. If your box not airtight at the coupling position nearer driver - you lose many bass range.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.