Some aren't eutectic and don't work well for human soldering - the type with 4% silver (aka SAC) is OK though as its eutectic.
That tip is very pointy (about 15 degrees?), which means less heat transfer efficiency, so you have to run it hotter to be usable, hence the oxidation problem - get a blunter angle tip, more like 25 degrees, and you'll get better temperature control, can dial down the temperature, and preferably use spade-tip geometry - the flat part of the spade retains liquid solder better. Note that the larger the wettable area of the tip the lower the thermal resistance between tip and heater and thus the lower set-point temperature you can use.
And golden rules - always re-tin a tip before placing it back in the holder, turn off the iron if not using for 5 mins or more.
Taught was to clean the tip in brass wool or a wet sponge when finishing a job because of the aggressive flux residue (with plated tips)!?
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I tried long screwdriver tip “ETK” (3/64”x1.2mm) and I have a “ETV” which I did not try. I found the same issue you have with the “ETK” and I use AIM glow-core no-clean leaded solder, 63/37, 0.015”. I am able to solder 0.5mm using the “ETA” tip however. There are a few other smaller chisel tips I might try as well but for now it’s the ole “ETA”
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It does seem so.
"Nickel is a much harder metal than other common plating options and offers excellent resistance to high temperatures. The operating temperature range increase due to nickel plating depends on the thickness of the plating but is superior to that gained by using silver. Nickel is very resistant to harsh environments and corrosion; however, due to its hardness, soldering can be difficult and requires an activated flux. Crimp termination can be a good option for nickel plated wire, but, because it is a hard material, some adjustments to tooling may be necessary. Conductivity of nickel is relatively low and plating will increase the resistance of wire (much like the impact of tin plating)".
https://www.newenglandwire.com/wire-plating-options/
"Disadvantage: Nickel’s weldability is not as favorable as some other metals. It may not readily accept solder without additional preparation or treatment.
Explanation: Nickel plating is not commonly found on the gold fingers of PCB boards due to its less favorable solderability. However, it is important to note that there are processes, like solderable nickel, which involve applying a layer of flux after nickel plating to enhance its soldering capabilities".
https://www.dosinconn.com/blog/advantages-disadvantages-nickel-plating-gold-plating
Hey Tom, sorry to bring this up again, but I just noticed the above so my question is the following:
If the SAC305 was really as bad as your experience reports, then how can you accept the fact that it is used like this even in your own assembly house?
Please note that I'm not trolling at all, of course, but it's just my genuine curiosity about that.
However, I believe an exchange of acronyms in memories could be even possible. 🙂
I once had a similar problem, tried different settings for temperature and it didn't work properly.
I only use tin with addition of lead from Cynel (0,5 250g +-15EU) .
Revolution happend when I bought a KSGER (I bought mine from aliexpress) soldering station with T12 tips. Now I can't imagine going back to the old set.
I do 80% of my work with a T12/K tip - 0805/1206 elements without any problem. For smt chips tip T12/3C. Tip processed about +-200k pads/point and work great.
I would highly recommend this kind of soldering station and tips.
You can see on YT how it works.
320*C is enough for smt like 0805/1206. The diameter 0,38mm is also much better for smt caps/resistors.
I don't use thermals on pads on my boards.
Only when I have to solder on huge groundplane I set 350/360* C with this station.
I only use tin with addition of lead from Cynel (0,5 250g +-15EU) .
Revolution happend when I bought a KSGER (I bought mine from aliexpress) soldering station with T12 tips. Now I can't imagine going back to the old set.
I do 80% of my work with a T12/K tip - 0805/1206 elements without any problem. For smt chips tip T12/3C. Tip processed about +-200k pads/point and work great.
I would highly recommend this kind of soldering station and tips.
You can see on YT how it works.
320*C is enough for smt like 0805/1206. The diameter 0,38mm is also much better for smt caps/resistors.
I don't use thermals on pads on my boards.
Only when I have to solder on huge groundplane I set 350/360* C with this station.
This looks an interesting one. Do you know where in Europe to buy this one.
Some years ago I got the understanding that a bit of copper would be a good thing in solder, but I was not able to find anywhere that sold it.
In the technical bulletin for this one it states that:
- Melting temp is 183 to 190 °C
- A typical solder tip temperature would be between 120 °C and 160 °C above the liquidus
temperature of the alloy. - Alpha guarantees the product shelf life for three years from the date of
manufacture when stored in the recommended conditions
So warranty date is a thing, but they seem to last for years longer.
Also:
Another alloy that seem of interest is Sn99,3Cu0,7
Does anyone have any experience with this one.
Back in the day I used the Yellow Label Tester and had very few problems.
I also smoked 40 cigarettes a day.
When I was 77 I came out of a long duration anesthetic following triple heart by-pass surgery .... with the unwelcome addition of Pnumonia
which became so called CPD. I had just 30% of a cigarette a week or two later, stubbed it and have not yet lit another.
Due to a tremor in by right hand I can no longer solder. [Bonsai has been kind enough to repair etc an amp for me].
I'm now 82 and, other than a Subbu3 DAC PS [now using an earlier version] being dead, my System is coming together again and I can enjoy troublefree
listening thanks to a few friends. 🙂 😊😎
I also smoked 40 cigarettes a day.
When I was 77 I came out of a long duration anesthetic following triple heart by-pass surgery .... with the unwelcome addition of Pnumonia
which became so called CPD. I had just 30% of a cigarette a week or two later, stubbed it and have not yet lit another.
Due to a tremor in by right hand I can no longer solder. [Bonsai has been kind enough to repair etc an amp for me].
I'm now 82 and, other than a Subbu3 DAC PS [now using an earlier version] being dead, my System is coming together again and I can enjoy troublefree
listening thanks to a few friends. 🙂 😊😎
If the PSU is dead I have one for you for 0 Euro. Just shipping costs. Send me a PM if you want it.
The bond between smokers and the information exchange is what I miss so let’s continue that as now ex smokers 🙂
The bond between smokers and the information exchange is what I miss so let’s continue that as now ex smokers 🙂
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Leaded solder has arrived. 183 C melting temp. Hopefully my problems will now be over!
I thought your problem was the tip and not the solder? I have the same problem with those Weller pencil tips regardless of solder. Also why did you chose RMA/SMA flux core solder and not no-clean? Thus you need flux remover for RMA/SMA type flux.
Good luck
Good luck
I just wanted a low melting point solder so that's what I could find. I have about 3 cans of flux remover 😉
I think some of the problem is with the Weller tip, but I am assuming that some of this may be to do with the high tip temps. IIUC after doing a bit of rooting around on the web, the tip temp needs to be 100-150C higher than the solder melting temp. I will initially try the tip temp at 300 and then take it from there.
🙂
I think some of the problem is with the Weller tip, but I am assuming that some of this may be to do with the high tip temps. IIUC after doing a bit of rooting around on the web, the tip temp needs to be 100-150C higher than the solder melting temp. I will initially try the tip temp at 300 and then take it from there.
🙂
I'm currently using 0.5mm SN63 leaded solder with no-clean flux. I happily solder 0805 components, SOIC op-amps and even SSOP devices using a 3mm wedge tip or a 1.2mm chisel tip on my Ersa i-Con iron with the temperature set to 350deg C. Like Tom and others, I use a brass wool tip cleaner.
I've 50 years experience soldering, both professionally and as a hobbyist. Andrew, the last time I had problems like you've been describing was when I was using the old thermo-magnetic temperature controlled Weller irons back-in-the-day. Also, the flux being used back then tended to be more aggressive.
As you are well aware, soldering for commercial products within Europe requires lead-free. The only lead-free stuff I have any experience of using was SAC305 stuff and I really don't like it. As I no longer have to worry about the commercial side of what I work on, I'm very happy with the performance and durability of my current leaded solder in combination with my wedge/chisel tipped iron.
I've 50 years experience soldering, both professionally and as a hobbyist. Andrew, the last time I had problems like you've been describing was when I was using the old thermo-magnetic temperature controlled Weller irons back-in-the-day. Also, the flux being used back then tended to be more aggressive.
As you are well aware, soldering for commercial products within Europe requires lead-free. The only lead-free stuff I have any experience of using was SAC305 stuff and I really don't like it. As I no longer have to worry about the commercial side of what I work on, I'm very happy with the performance and durability of my current leaded solder in combination with my wedge/chisel tipped iron.
Hi Geoff. Thanks for the feedback. I’ve been soldering for about 50 yrs as well (with a 25 year gap in between 😉 ) and have never had a problem. I’ve used lead free for about 10 yrs and don’t like it either. I’m also placing 0805 and (T)SSOP. 0.65mm pin pitch and find getting decent looking joints difficult. I am looking forward to moving back to leaded solder.
I have an old Weller thermo-electric soldering iron (60W) that I use for big stuff.
I have an old Weller thermo-electric soldering iron (60W) that I use for big stuff.
If I'm soldering big stuff, I simply swap my 1.3mm or 3mm tip for a 5mm wedge on my Ersa 60W iron. For the likes of the TSSOP or SOIC devices, I find using the 1.3mm wedge across the leads in the drag technique works very well Another good technique is laying 0.5mm solder along one side of the device, applying the tip close into the device body at right angles then pulling out to the outer edge of the pins.
Consider trying solder paste and reflow with a heat gun for surface mount. Apply small dots of paste on the board (with a toothpick). Drop component into the paste and heat. I have also used paste flux with a tiny (1mm or less) bit of solder wire cut off the spool placed into the paste flux along with the component.
I am considering trying lead free solder, but this sounds a bit concerning.
Does anyone have any more information about this?