Just looking to see if anyone has had similar problems to me and if there are any experts that can offer advice. I’m using .5 mm Weller solder and a Weller WE1010 iron with a 1mm needle point bit.
The problem is my bit keeps losing its wetting and it oxidises and then will not solder properly. I’ve tried it at 350C temp and then 395C but it is still problematic. Any ideas? Thanks
The problem is my bit keeps losing its wetting and it oxidises and then will not solder properly. I’ve tried it at 350C temp and then 395C but it is still problematic. Any ideas? Thanks
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I’m occasionally using tip regenerator ‘Tip tinner TSLF+’. Works really well. There is a dedicated type for Weller and JBC soldering irons:
https://www.tme.eu/hr/en/katalog/so...arams=2:285,253_manufacturer:jbc-tools,weller
https://www.tme.eu/hr/en/katalog/so...arams=2:285,253_manufacturer:jbc-tools,weller
^ Similar - I haven't purchased the Weller branded product, but I've used the product linked below ... beware... fumes are fairly potent (STRONG ammonia-like smell). It does a great job. I also... (gasp) will take a file to older tips that need one last job before they go into the bin.
I've got a WTCPT with a TC201T. All my tips are 700F, and tips were not lasting very long (relatively speaking).
It doesn't help you in your specific situation with your iron, and it's not what you asked, but...
I switched my primary station to one that has automatic temperature reduction when I put the iron back in the cradle. Now, my tips last MUCH longer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K7JNKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got a WTCPT with a TC201T. All my tips are 700F, and tips were not lasting very long (relatively speaking).
It doesn't help you in your specific situation with your iron, and it's not what you asked, but...
I switched my primary station to one that has automatic temperature reduction when I put the iron back in the cradle. Now, my tips last MUCH longer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K7JNKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think you are using it at too high a temperature for that alloy.
Just try 240-250°.
I believe that in Europe lead has been banned from solder alloys, and the lead-free ones behave terribly. IMO
I recommend a tin-copper-silver alloy (silver instead of lead).
I use a Sn96.5 Ag3.0 Cu0.5 and it costs a little more, but it is legal and it does work very well. 😉
It definitely won't solder at 228-229 and even at 285C. The solder gets soft but it will not flow. I took it to 310C and it's soldering well now and the bit is staying wetted. Its a pity they don't put the temperature range on the reel.
When I put chips down with 20-40 pins, I will probably have to take the temperature up, but maybe not to where I was before.
I'll try some other solder - this stuff is terrible for me.
When I put chips down with 20-40 pins, I will probably have to take the temperature up, but maybe not to where I was before.
I'll try some other solder - this stuff is terrible for me.
Yes, just to start with the combination of your iron with your (small) tip. 😉
Glad to hear about that.
Yes, just try one as I recommended (tin-silver-copper) and you won't regret it. 🙂
Something like this? The temperature is 190-220C - very good
https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/27/Datasheet__2site_new__55141_us__09_04_2022-2936596.pdf
https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/27/Datasheet__2site_new__55141_us__09_04_2022-2936596.pdf
I quite like Kester 245 63/37 eutectic if you're looking at "no clean" options.
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/kester-solder/24-6337-8806/365522
https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/kester-solder/24-6337-8806/365522
Not exactly.
That is the classic tin-lead alloy (60/40).
Lead and its vapors are toxic, but it solders very well. 🙄
I meant one like this (tin-silver-copper): it is very good! 🙂
Or, if you really want to use lead and a lower temperature (of the individual metals) Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder.
Which in my opinion, even though it costs a bit and is toxic, is truly excellent. 😉
I'm not sure it's still easy to find, though.
If one wants normal quality joints that last and not the mentioned issues just use 60/40 or any of its variants and by a known good brand.
Medical and military stuff use 60/40 for reliability.
We can debate over small details like opamps, SMD or TH but unleaded solders are just awful and reworking is a pain.
Medical and military stuff use 60/40 for reliability.
We can debate over small details like opamps, SMD or TH but unleaded solders are just awful and reworking is a pain.
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I would recommend AIM's eutectic solder. Top performance, unbeatable price:
https://hr.mouser.com/c/tools-supplies/soldering/solder/?q=aim solder&alloy=Sn62/Pb36/Ag2
https://hr.mouser.com/c/tools-supplies/soldering/solder/?q=aim solder&alloy=Sn62/Pb36/Ag2
I always use the wedge-shaped bits. I never managed to get anything soldered properly with the needle-shaped one, no matter what the solder or the temperature may be.
I'm not familiar with tin-copper-nickel solder. I use tin-copper-silver most of the time, it solders almost as good as tin-lead.
I'm not familiar with tin-copper-nickel solder. I use tin-copper-silver most of the time, it solders almost as good as tin-lead.
Almost 😉
Now you mentioned it I just checked and indeed are the sharp needle type tips I have all but one new and unused. The chisel and wider diameter needle type (conical) tips seem to be the most popular.
Now you mentioned it I just checked and indeed are the sharp needle type tips I have all but one new and unused. The chisel and wider diameter needle type (conical) tips seem to be the most popular.
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I have not used the wedge types for a decade now, the round tip ones have always worked (provided that these are sized properly) 🙂
The Weller solder in Post #1 is this stuff: https://www.weller-tools.com/us/en/...ering-wire/wsw-scn-m1-05mm-100g-sn06cu005ni35. It's 99.3 % tin, 0.6 % copper, and 0.05 % nickel. That's similar to AIM 100C and ChipQuik CQ100Ge. That's actually the best lead-free solder out there. It's an eutectic alloy. It behaves almost like 63/37 Sn/Pb. I use it with an 800 ºF (427 ºC) soldering tip. That'd be a #8 in the Weller WTCP system.
I use a tip temperature of 700 ºF (371 ºC) for leaded solder. So a #7 tip in the WTCP system.
I wonder if the flux has dried out in that spool of Weller solder. Try cutting off a length of about 50-60 cm and see if the fresh solder on the spool will wet properly.
For hobbyists 60/40 or 63/37 Sn/Pb solder would be what I'd recommend. If you need lead-free, the AIM100C or equivalent would be my go-to.
I've written quite a bit on the topic here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
I use a tip temperature of 700 ºF (371 ºC) for leaded solder. So a #7 tip in the WTCP system.
I wonder if the flux has dried out in that spool of Weller solder. Try cutting off a length of about 50-60 cm and see if the fresh solder on the spool will wet properly.
That's commonly known as SAC305. That stuff is awful in my opinion. Good solder joints look grainy and are, thus, indistinguishable from bad solder joints. It doesn't flow very well either.
For hobbyists 60/40 or 63/37 Sn/Pb solder would be what I'd recommend. If you need lead-free, the AIM100C or equivalent would be my go-to.
I've written quite a bit on the topic here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-solder
Tom
You don't need the silver, though. Unless you're soldering on silver wiring where 60/40 will dissolve the silver.
Tom
One almost is happy when using lead-free solder I see.
The whole lead-free/ROHS operation turned out to be worse for the environment than continuing with the old materials I recently read. Also landfills full of young but defective lead-free electronic devices does not help but it sure feels good to be green!
The whole lead-free/ROHS operation turned out to be worse for the environment than continuing with the old materials I recently read. Also landfills full of young but defective lead-free electronic devices does not help but it sure feels good to be green!
+1 for tip tinner, by the way. If you're in a lead-free environment, get a lead-free one. It could also be that it's simply time for a new tip. I think you can rescue the one you have, though.
I'd also consider putting a timer on the soldering iron so you don't forget to turn it off. That's probably the biggest killer of tips. Your home improvement store should have a suitable timer, junction box, etc. I'd get a 30-minute timer.
My METCAL soldering station has a built-in timer. I think it's suppose to sense when the iron is being used, but in my experience it errs on the side of caution, i.e., turns off a bit more often than necessary. It's not a big deal to reset it, though.
Tom
I'd also consider putting a timer on the soldering iron so you don't forget to turn it off. That's probably the biggest killer of tips. Your home improvement store should have a suitable timer, junction box, etc. I'd get a 30-minute timer.
My METCAL soldering station has a built-in timer. I think it's suppose to sense when the iron is being used, but in my experience it errs on the side of caution, i.e., turns off a bit more often than necessary. It's not a big deal to reset it, though.
Tom