Just use the advised transformer voltages. It is not hard to find the right one:
Nuvotem Talema : Toroidal Transformers : Standard Range
Nuvotem Talema : Toroidal Transformers : Standard Range
Yes, I am thinking of some DHT tubes.
Would a 9v transformer work with the DAC? Also, I suppose we only need a single pot to connect to the DAC board? Any need for controller?
Not directly in AC ! 9V is too much; read here and the first pages of the thread : http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...oekris-s-dac-implementations.html#post4184471
There are a lot of choices out there. Something like these should be fine. Most listed below are cermet - these are military/aerospace grade not junk.
Bourns Cermet Linear +/-10% panel mount with slotted solder tabs
3852A-282-103AL - BOURNS - POTENTIOMETER, 10KR, 2W | element14 Australia
Bourns Conductive Plastic Linear +/-20% panel mount with slotted solder tabs
3851A-282-103BL - BOURNS - POT, COND PLASTIC, 10KOHM, 20%, 1W | element14 Australia
The P11 cermet series is pretty nice. Russ Andrews used to sell the stereo version of these for use in passive pre-amps, and claimed they sounded better than anything else he could find - not that this matters in this application.
Standard version / 50,000 cycles
P11S1V0FLSY00103KA - VISHAY SFERNICE - POTENTIOMETER, LINEAR, 10K, 1W, 10% | element14 Australia
Long life version / 2,000,000 cycles
P11L1V0FLSY00103KA - VISHAY SFERNICE - POTENTIOMETER,1MOD 22MM,10K,10% LONGLIFE | element14 Australia
These are what I'd be looking at buying - there are plenty of cheaper choices out there.
I'm personally set on having the DAC remote controlled it looks like a DIY controller is the only option for now.
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So am I, but I also happen to like knobs... so I was thinking about getting a motorized alps linear pot or fader to have both a remote controller and a manual control... but that would do even more DIY controller development.
I was looking at remote controlled volume controls from ebay. Pretty sure there were 10k options available.
I was also thinking it should be fairly easy to connect an Arduino to control the volume, if you're worked with them before. You should also be able do to input selection with the Arduino, but I'll probably just use USB through an Amanero card.
At first, I'll probably just hook up a manual pot, and then figure out how to best get remote control later.
Randy
I've been using Roomie Remote (iOS app) with a Global Caché Wifi Flex (wifi -> IR interface) for the last couple of years and wouldn't go back to manual control. Plus it makes it easy for SWMBO to fire up the system and switch everything to the right settings - otherwise I'd get called to do it for her.
I use a Mac Mini with Pure Music/Audrivana+ running with iTunes integration, and Roomie Agent running on the Mac Mini. I have a TV hooked to the Mac Mini via HDMI and audio running via a Stello U3 to a DIY Pass D1 Clone -> Alpeh P1.7 clone preamp with Dantimax relay attentutor and remote control -> Hypex UcD180HG+HxR based amp. The Soekris will replace the Stello, D1 Clone and Aleph P1.7 preamp.
Currently it's set up so if I select the "Listen to Music" preset, the preamp switches to correct input, either Pure Music or Audrivana+ launches and the Roomie app gives me a single remote interface that allows track selection from my music library, ability to control play/pause/etc in iTunes and volume control using the preamp. Selecting "Watch TV", quits iTunes/PureMusic/Audirvana/VLC, changes the preamp to the correct input and powers on the TV and selects the antenna input on the TV. It's pretty hard to go back to fumbling with multiple remotes, keyboards, mice, VNC, and walking over to change volume or select inputs etc.
Søren has implemented serial control for both input switching and volume (Thanks Søren!!!) so this can be controlled by micro controller. I've messed around with PIC's for a few years (the PIC/VCXO I posted earlier in the thread ran code I wrote in assembly language) so I'll go that route.
The basic plan is for:
- Front panel rotary encoder for manual control
- IR receiver
- Wired IR input (rear panel)
- some method of cycling thru inputs from front panel - push and turn the volume controller is one possibility.
I've ordered an Amanero board but haven't heard anything regarding it shipping. Apart from that Toslink is a must have - if only because the TV has an optical out. SPDIF and AES/EBU are purely optional in my current setup. I'd have to run from the computer via the Stello U3 to use either of them so there isn't much point.
cheers
Paul
I use a Mac Mini with Pure Music/Audrivana+ running with iTunes integration, and Roomie Agent running on the Mac Mini. I have a TV hooked to the Mac Mini via HDMI and audio running via a Stello U3 to a DIY Pass D1 Clone -> Alpeh P1.7 clone preamp with Dantimax relay attentutor and remote control -> Hypex UcD180HG+HxR based amp. The Soekris will replace the Stello, D1 Clone and Aleph P1.7 preamp.
Currently it's set up so if I select the "Listen to Music" preset, the preamp switches to correct input, either Pure Music or Audrivana+ launches and the Roomie app gives me a single remote interface that allows track selection from my music library, ability to control play/pause/etc in iTunes and volume control using the preamp. Selecting "Watch TV", quits iTunes/PureMusic/Audirvana/VLC, changes the preamp to the correct input and powers on the TV and selects the antenna input on the TV. It's pretty hard to go back to fumbling with multiple remotes, keyboards, mice, VNC, and walking over to change volume or select inputs etc.
Søren has implemented serial control for both input switching and volume (Thanks Søren!!!) so this can be controlled by micro controller. I've messed around with PIC's for a few years (the PIC/VCXO I posted earlier in the thread ran code I wrote in assembly language) so I'll go that route.
The basic plan is for:
- Front panel rotary encoder for manual control
- IR receiver
- Wired IR input (rear panel)
- some method of cycling thru inputs from front panel - push and turn the volume controller is one possibility.
I've ordered an Amanero board but haven't heard anything regarding it shipping. Apart from that Toslink is a must have - if only because the TV has an optical out. SPDIF and AES/EBU are purely optional in my current setup. I'd have to run from the computer via the Stello U3 to use either of them so there isn't much point.
cheers
Paul
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I would like to think that the software reading the volume pot has a degree of hysteresis implemented.
Such that a piece of wet string and a nail would work
Yes it do filtering and have hysteresis, but it also have 106 steps, so it need good resolution.... Cermet is good, Conductive Plastic is best, other technologies might also work good.
A small amount of electronics and software to translate IR commands and communicate with the DAC via serial port.
"IMO I2S is the right path although I myself might implement a S/PDIF connection as well, just as sort of a backup and for convenience purposes"
I agree with many here that all this talk of any other connections(spdif, toslink, aes) is secondary to the best sound. I2S sounds better to me in my system. I use a TPA Buffalo III with salas ps and a SDtrans384 as a source with both I2S and spdif output (bnc). When switching between I2s and bnc input the I2S sounds better. So if I want the best sound, it is I2S. I have an Amanero with external ps connected to the pc sending I2s via TPA Teleporter to the Buffalo. So I2s is the way IMO. It will be interesting to hear what this dac sounds like via I2s.
I agree with many here that all this talk of any other connections(spdif, toslink, aes) is secondary to the best sound. I2S sounds better to me in my system. I use a TPA Buffalo III with salas ps and a SDtrans384 as a source with both I2S and spdif output (bnc). When switching between I2s and bnc input the I2S sounds better. So if I want the best sound, it is I2S. I have an Amanero with external ps connected to the pc sending I2s via TPA Teleporter to the Buffalo. So I2s is the way IMO. It will be interesting to hear what this dac sounds like via I2s.
Generic header (pins) for I2S. Will the bits get there - most probably yes. Is it's impedance defied? No.
Will it cause jitter or other disturbances - yes. Will these have a component that is significant below 0,02 Hz (50 seconds)? No.
Does Sorens fifo buffer have a frequency where disturbances below are passed trough. Yes. Whats the frequency? 0,02Hz.
QED.
//
Will it cause jitter or other disturbances - yes. Will these have a component that is significant below 0,02 Hz (50 seconds)? No.
Does Sorens fifo buffer have a frequency where disturbances below are passed trough. Yes. Whats the frequency? 0,02Hz.
QED.
//
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I kinda figured that much...
I see there are some serial to bluetooth and serial to wifi converters out there. I imagine one of those would be a start...
Wondering how one can link all 4 dacs together to control the volume across all of them...
It should really be a matter of wiring between boards unless you need to control each board individually - in which case you need a serial connection to each and a way to adjust volume offsets.
How well prebuilt projects work will depend on how configurable the output is, and whether they can send the commands the DAM1021 needs.
For people who have the DAC already : a simple shematic is given in the vendor thread to help before the complete manual to be sent by Soren in few days . I will attach also in first page the definitive manual.
Hope, some will made some tests and testimonie about subjective SQ difference between the different entries (I2S vs Spidf...) and difference between sampling rates in relation to their listening impressions!
A two cents question : what is the actual programating of the shipped DAC : if if saw a song e.g. 18/44 via an Amareno 32/384, does ithe DAC FGPA chip in the DAC keep it at 18/44 ! I know Soren answered already as he said all could be programmated (like NOS or oversampling as well). Does it match the bit rate like the SRC of the Library materials by default ?
PS: following an advice above (thanks Randy) : I simulated with PSUD2 my future DC powersuply with a PI and a 9 V R-Core in the voltage Windows SOren gave for DC (9V mini -12 V mak)... My understanding is the R-Core is even quieter than a torroid traffo (?) and have a narrow bandwidth whic can help for digital stuffs and noise (?).... But it's a 30 VA ! Don't know the trade off between this large value and the other design school which says : just give what you need (5 W advised by Soren) ? Some like Pedja advise on him blog 50 VA traffo (quieter ?) ?
Frankly, my goal was to put a simple Pi DC because I have a R-Core and want to preserve the first CL caps of the DAC from the pulsed current after the bridge ! It's not for the 15 euros of the torroids traffo... (no voltage regulation for me here, just a Pi filter with résistors to low the voltage of the 9V ! maybe a second Pi to add some common smd chockes) !
Did some have listened their DAC last evening
Hope, some will made some tests and testimonie about subjective SQ difference between the different entries (I2S vs Spidf...) and difference between sampling rates in relation to their listening impressions!
A two cents question : what is the actual programating of the shipped DAC : if if saw a song e.g. 18/44 via an Amareno 32/384, does ithe DAC FGPA chip in the DAC keep it at 18/44 ! I know Soren answered already as he said all could be programmated (like NOS or oversampling as well). Does it match the bit rate like the SRC of the Library materials by default ?
PS: following an advice above (thanks Randy) : I simulated with PSUD2 my future DC powersuply with a PI and a 9 V R-Core in the voltage Windows SOren gave for DC (9V mini -12 V mak)... My understanding is the R-Core is even quieter than a torroid traffo (?) and have a narrow bandwidth whic can help for digital stuffs and noise (?).... But it's a 30 VA ! Don't know the trade off between this large value and the other design school which says : just give what you need (5 W advised by Soren) ? Some like Pedja advise on him blog 50 VA traffo (quieter ?) ?
Frankly, my goal was to put a simple Pi DC because I have a R-Core and want to preserve the first CL caps of the DAC from the pulsed current after the bridge ! It's not for the 15 euros of the torroids traffo... (no voltage regulation for me here, just a Pi filter with résistors to low the voltage of the 9V ! maybe a second Pi to add some common smd chockes) !
Did some have listened their DAC last evening
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