Hi Steven,
As one who had removed and replaced "many" parts, I have found that leaving the solder in place as I remove parts seems to help to get all of the solder in the hole to heat up easier. I don't use the solder sucker until after I have removed the wire. I have had to drill out more than one wire. You will need to be sure to solder both top and bottom pads when you install the new part just in case you drilled out plating in the hole.
As one who had removed and replaced "many" parts, I have found that leaving the solder in place as I remove parts seems to help to get all of the solder in the hole to heat up easier. I don't use the solder sucker until after I have removed the wire. I have had to drill out more than one wire. You will need to be sure to solder both top and bottom pads when you install the new part just in case you drilled out plating in the hole.
Terry, Thanks for that hint. I'll try and reflow some solder into the hole and see if I can get the entire via hot enough to get the part out.
Ahhh , Vargas ... You actually posted the one I was reading.
All is now .8 / 1 / 1.6 / and 2.25mm (4 drillings).
14ga coil is almost 1.7mm , 2.25mm for it and the big diodes - easier rework.
No , coil is single layer 18-22 turns 16/14 ga. (1.4 -1.6uH). Sticks straight up !
Field is perpendicular to the OP track - no mutual inductance...
OS.
I don't like solder sucker over metallic braid => you put the braid on solder point heatup with soldering iron and the solder is socked by capilarity through the braid
Os i am as you and must verify several time the work....
Marc
Os i am as you and must verify several time the work....
Marc
I only use the copper braid when cleaning up around SMD parts as the solder sucker will remove them. For pulling the solder out of holes the sucker is superior IMO.
OS,
My speaker motor design uses a cup core type of design so no stray magnetic fields to worry about. You can literally place the raw frame driver next to a crt and no effect at all, the field is completely contained. Think of a Faraday cage.
My speaker motor design uses a cup core type of design so no stray magnetic fields to worry about. You can literally place the raw frame driver next to a crt and no effect at all, the field is completely contained. Think of a Faraday cage.
Kind , you do realize any of these IPS's (and a 1pair OPS) could be shrunk down
to a <75mm X 2 "postage stamp" PCB (in SMD)..
Even at the full size and at 72V rails , my to-92 's are <80F , my VAS is <90F.
The good thing about the slew is the fact it is a EF3. I could run the VAS @ <4ma
and with <60V rails ..... just a few degrees C over ambient.
Drivers with a 220R emitter resistor would need NO heatsink to drive 1 pair outputs.
My HK680 drivers are barely warm running 2.
Just the TO-3P's would need heatsinking. coolest amp on the forum - except for
the 5 outputs on the full version (that is the only heat source on my amp) ... and
the reason for the new OPS , as well.
I've built some SMD, terry / Val , everybody else is getting into it - nothing too scary.
OS
to a <75mm X 2 "postage stamp" PCB (in SMD)..
Even at the full size and at 72V rails , my to-92 's are <80F , my VAS is <90F.
The good thing about the slew is the fact it is a EF3. I could run the VAS @ <4ma
and with <60V rails ..... just a few degrees C over ambient.
Drivers with a 220R emitter resistor would need NO heatsink to drive 1 pair outputs.
My HK680 drivers are barely warm running 2.
Just the TO-3P's would need heatsinking. coolest amp on the forum - except for
the 5 outputs on the full version (that is the only heat source on my amp) ... and
the reason for the new OPS , as well.
I've built some SMD, terry / Val , everybody else is getting into it - nothing too scary.
OS
OS,
That has been exactly what I have been hoping for all along. A very small board that is perhaps a bit larger than Lazy Cats VSSA board but with your design. I'm thinking of a two pair board for the cone driver as I am going to eq that device to push up the output at the -3db point, and I want plenty of headroom also for high transients so it never clips. I could possibly use an inline external smps as I found some that have a 1000 watt output if that is enough to work with a two pair and a single crippled pair that only has a max of 30 watts for the tweeter. I started a new thread the other day and it is just getting started to discuss all the other things I need such as USB and Bluetooth. So really something that will use two of your amps for bi-amp, an active crossover, whether discrete or in the dsp, a dac and whatever else I need. I'll put some passive impedance compensation on both devices so I shouldn't have an issue worrying about any dc getting to the devices.
That has been exactly what I have been hoping for all along. A very small board that is perhaps a bit larger than Lazy Cats VSSA board but with your design. I'm thinking of a two pair board for the cone driver as I am going to eq that device to push up the output at the -3db point, and I want plenty of headroom also for high transients so it never clips. I could possibly use an inline external smps as I found some that have a 1000 watt output if that is enough to work with a two pair and a single crippled pair that only has a max of 30 watts for the tweeter. I started a new thread the other day and it is just getting started to discuss all the other things I need such as USB and Bluetooth. So really something that will use two of your amps for bi-amp, an active crossover, whether discrete or in the dsp, a dac and whatever else I need. I'll put some passive impedance compensation on both devices so I shouldn't have an issue worrying about any dc getting to the devices.
On some web thang somewhere, I ran into a trick with through hole boards. After removing the old part, heat the solder and stick a toothpick into the hole. You don't end up needing to remove the solder. It leaves a nicely tinned open hole ready for the new part. Works for me.
I for one am eager to see your new OPS. Is anyone here toying with the idea of doing a Group Buy for this new OPS??
_____________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff
_____________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff
When OS is happy with the product I was planning on getting boards produced. A few very helpful people here have had other boards made....I wanted to repay the favor. The advice people can offer is great for making a great product as well as keeping the budget in mind....no need to waste money.
Evan
Evan
Oh, an old fashion elliptic speaker ! What a good idea: i always found they are better than round ones.
Thanks Christophe, I thought it made more sense than trying to stack two 4" drivers on top of each other and having two motors. 🙂
I prefer the solder sucker over braid too. If there's gobs of solder, warm it up and drop the board on your bench. The light impact will knock the solder off the board without any damage.
That's why it may seem like I'm slow ... I want to make sure the board is 100% ...
not 99.5. I might as well start on this one to make a real BOM and little
PDF build guide. Since it does 2/3/5 OP and FET's , most of the slew variants
can be BOM'ed and properly documented.
Let me and evan build it first. I'm quite sure it will be " all slew" (it will work real good). We'll see whether just having the 4 drillings will save some $$$.
I'm looking it over for the last time NOW... (gerbers in zip next).
OS
I could not use those. There are silkscreen on pad errors ...
Through-hole double sided will show this as an error as it conflicts with the soldermask.
Edit - when you make them , test F12 (or not) , run your macro template through a DRC check.
Make a macro universal 1 or 2 sided by default.
OS
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Slow? I don't think so....This is something we do for fun....Any rushing (other then being excited to see things work) takes away from it.