Tiger Direct is good. Canada Computers is great up here but I don't know if they ship down there.
Any suggestion for a mouse that will definitely NOT fail ?
(corded/usb/laser) ... maybe even enhanced precision.
OS
lounge chair designer ? 😕
So damn comfortable , you do a reversed diode on each board ? 😀
I design with pain and constant irritation.
OS
I used to design with pain and constant irritation but I'm divorced now.😀
M500 is a good cheap mouse. A gaming mouse is a good upgrade from there if you want more precision but usually you can tweak the settings in the OS on a normal mouse to make them work well. Turning down acceleration and slowing them down makes them much more accurate.
Gaming good for abuse.
For noname cheap mouse, i just replace button switch. They good for fixed station not for mobile, weak cable
For noname cheap mouse, i just replace button switch. They good for fixed station not for mobile, weak cable
I have a Logitech trackball that is about 10 years old and just this year had to swap the left main button with one of the unused optional buttons (a four button version, all buttons electrically / mechanically the same). Occasional cleaning of the sensor and contact points and waxing of the ball with no issues. Really, aside from the old mechanical mice, I have had no actual hard (un-recoverable) failures of any keyboards or mice. Hitting the keys or buttons with too much enthusiasm? These are simple devices that should have a high MTBF.
M500 is a good cheap mouse. A gaming mouse is a good upgrade from there if you want more precision but usually you can tweak the settings in the OS on a normal mouse to make them work well. Turning down acceleration and slowing them down makes them much more accurate.
I saw the 500 , only one for 20-30$.
OS
I always seem to wear out the left hand side switches on my trackballs, I've taken some from one trackball and put them in another to get one good one. The switches seem to be the weak link in the whole device. Like OS and JW my old stuff lasted forever and the newer stuff is just planned obsolescence. I think the last Dell keyboard is finally out of the house, those lasted forever and as long as you don't spill a coke into one they seemed indestructible. My Logitech keyboard is like that, I just open it up once in awhile and clean out the gunk that builds up over time. With a trackball you don't have to move you arm around all day, I just have mine sitting next to me as I sit and work sitting on the bed with the TV on in front of me. Talking about something that won't wear out I am still waiting for my 36" Sony Trinitron CRT to die, it just keeps on working! . Damned thing must weigh 400 lbs.
I always seem to wear out the left hand side switches on my trackballs, I've taken some from one trackball and put them in another to get one good one. The switches seem to be the weak link in the whole device. Like OS and JW my old stuff lasted forever and the newer stuff is just planned obsolescence. I think the last Dell keyboard is finally out of the house, those lasted forever and as long as you don't spill a coke into one they seemed indestructible. My Logitech keyboard is like that, I just open it up once in awhile and clean out the gunk that builds up over time. With a trackball you don't have to move you arm around all day, I just have mine sitting next to me as I sit and work sitting on the bed with the TV on in front of me. Talking about something that won't wear out I am still waiting for my 36" Sony Trinitron CRT to die, it just keeps on working! . Damned thing must weigh 400 lbs.
You can put your wired keyboards through the dishwasher with no soap. They come out like new. No need to open them up.
Any suggestion for a mouse that will definitely NOT fail ?
(corded/usb/laser) ... maybe even enhanced precision.
OS
Pete, I use Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000 (2 of them - on 2 PCs) - this is a bundle, keyboard + mouse. Perfect. The mouse is optical, very precise, excellent grip (good materials), never failed for many years. They still sell them. For example, here:
>Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000<
Less than 35 bucks for the whole thing. Hard to beat for this price.
Take two 😉
P.S. The only thing I'm missing sometimes - lighted keys... but, on the other hand, it saves the battery life (the keyboard runs for more than a year from one set, the mouse - more than half of that). Everyday use! 😎
I have had a keyboard like this on my desk for over 15 years. Lasts forever.
I use a Laser HP mouse that goes for less than 15 dollars at Walmart. I have 3 and NEVER a minutes problem from any of them. I use them to do Layout 5 or now 6. works fine no failures. I will try and find a picture, but it is in a Black package in the computer section.
I am partial to this one from IBM as I use to work for them, I even went to a Selectric class once. THAT was a mechanical Night and Day mare.
This Keyboard goes for about 25 up to 300 dollars. IF I can find one of my spares in the garage, I will send you one IF you would like to use it. It has a PS / 2 connector, and I use an adapter to make it work into a USB port.😀
I use a Laser HP mouse that goes for less than 15 dollars at Walmart. I have 3 and NEVER a minutes problem from any of them. I use them to do Layout 5 or now 6. works fine no failures. I will try and find a picture, but it is in a Black package in the computer section.
I am partial to this one from IBM as I use to work for them, I even went to a Selectric class once. THAT was a mechanical Night and Day mare.
This Keyboard goes for about 25 up to 300 dollars. IF I can find one of my spares in the garage, I will send you one IF you would like to use it. It has a PS / 2 connector, and I use an adapter to make it work into a USB port.😀
Attachments
We had 2 Gateway 2000 keyboards that only became unusable a few years ago. If I can find a way to get the plastic key bushings to work smoothly again I'd like to keep using it because it has the best layout and feel.
My mouse is a Logitech with switches so small they are nearly impossible to clean. So I did that. But the problem now is that the switches have worn grooves in the plastic contacts so it takes too much effort to click. Not sure what to fill in those grooves with that won't just squish or crack out.
My mouse is a Logitech with switches so small they are nearly impossible to clean. So I did that. But the problem now is that the switches have worn grooves in the plastic contacts so it takes too much effort to click. Not sure what to fill in those grooves with that won't just squish or crack out.
http://activcom.pl/tomek/Krzysiek/HP_MODGUO_2.png
Here is the picture. It is a model MODGUO the writing is all in Chinese.
HP USB 3 Button Optical Mouse KY619AA ABA New | eBay
here it is on Ebay
Here is the picture. It is a model MODGUO the writing is all in Chinese.
HP USB 3 Button Optical Mouse KY619AA ABA New | eBay
here it is on Ebay
Attachments
Last edited:
We got several of that exact mouse because people said they were good but they quickly started failing and doubleclicking. And you can't clean the switches.
http://activcom.pl/tomek/Krzysiek/HP_MODGUO_2.png
Here is the picture. It is a model MODGUO the writing is all in Chinese.
HP USB 3 Button Optical Mouse KY619AA ABA New | eBay
here it is on Ebay
Nope , I've clicked too many of them to death. That is the second most
common e-waste mouse. M$ one are the most common.
I must click too much (or harder).
OS
Pete, I use Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000 (2 of them - on 2 PCs) - this is a bundle, keyboard + mouse. Perfect. The mouse is optical, very precise, excellent grip (good materials), never failed for many years. They still sell them. For example, here:
>Microsoft Wireless Desktop 3000<
Less than 35 bucks for the whole thing. Hard to beat for this price.
Take two 😉
P.S. The only thing I'm missing sometimes - lighted keys... but, on the other hand, it saves the battery life (the keyboard runs for more than a year from one set, the mouse - more than half of that). Everyday use! 😎
How long have you owned it ? Some of the newer reviewers (and 1 year+ owners) say the
rubber coverings "melt". This is a problem with some asian sources (C****).
In fact , I even know the polymer reason why.
Otherwise , it seems to be good deal.
OS
I'm wondering is it possible to create an amplifier in 3 separate enclosures.
1st enclosure the IPS
2nd the OPS
3nd the power supply.
All connected via short speakon connectors.
This way would be interchangeable IPS.
One powerful power supply for general use.
What is the disadvantage?
1st enclosure the IPS
2nd the OPS
3nd the power supply.
All connected via short speakon connectors.
This way would be interchangeable IPS.
One powerful power supply for general use.
What is the disadvantage?
The inductance and shunt capacitance of the interconnections would interfere with many designs, and having a single design strewn throughout several boxes might have strange RFI effects. It would be better to separate the stages with aluminum partitions inside a single well-made enclosure, but really you WANT both halves of the amp to be well-connected, not separate from each other. Some shielding of the sensitive areas is good though.
I'm wondering is it possible to create an amplifier in 3 separate enclosures.
1st enclosure the IPS
2nd the OPS
3nd the power supply.
All connected via short speakon connectors.
This way would be interchangeable IPS.
One powerful power supply for general use.
What is the disadvantage?
As long as you had the IPS-OPS interface "butted up" against each other
like typical.
The higher Z cascoded IPS's also prefer a short path to the OPS pre-drivers.
I chose the lower Z wolverine IPS as my sub because of the 100mm interconnect distance.
The pass labs X250/350 uses a flat ribbon cable with alternating grounds on it's
250mm IPS/OPS interconnect.
Amp to PS - here you could avoid the trafo EMF .... but gain L and R
on the interconnect. Some esoteric equipment is separate like this.
The Pass is the only high-end I've seen with such a distance to OPS. 😕
OS
To be more clear,i speak for mono.6 boxes for a stereo amplifier!😱As long as you had the IPS-OPS interface "butted up" against each other
like typical.
The higher Z cascoded IPS's also prefer a short path to the OPS pre-drivers.
I chose the lower Z wolverine IPS as my sub because of the 100mm interconnect distance.
The pass labs X250/350 uses a flat ribbon cable with alternating grounds on it's
250mm IPS/OPS interconnect.
Amp to PS - here you could avoid the trafo EMF .... but gain L and R
on the interconnect. Some esoteric equipment is separate like this.
The Pass is the only high-end I've seen with such a distance to OPS. 😕
OS
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Solid State
- Slewmaster - CFA vs. VFA "Rumble"