The articles I've seen on people trying this were people pulling the heat sink out of a completed unit, polishing the heat sink, then firing it up without even putting the case together. I don't hold much value in that kind of test. I would prefer to test with devices we are using in audio applications at current levels close to what we would be using in a better controlled environment.
I agree, heat sink pads would likely be more of a factor than anything.
I agree, heat sink pads would likely be more of a factor than anything.
If you look carefully on mine, yes, the radiator is outside of the unit (but inside the finished box). Even when all is closed. It run cooler when everything is closed, thanks to the huge 200mm front fan pushing fresh air inside the box.
Cooler Master 690 II Advanced (RC-692) [Topic unique] - Page : 84 - Boitier - Hardware - FORUM HardWare.fr
To be back to our topic, for my future amp, i will try to use a thick polished copper plate of the same surface than the base of the heat sink, with the output devices directly mounted on it, in order to equalize their temperatures. Then this assembly mounted on the aluminium heat sink, with a thin electrical isolation foil and thermal past on all the surface. No need to explain the advantages.
Read deeply into the capacitor parts catelogs, NOT the data sheets.
Many of the capacitors need to be cleaned... they are contaminated
from the Active Fungicide agents pumped into shipping containers.
Silicon Dioxide used to be used which was okay. But the new stuff
isn't so good for parts, people, and the like. I think the term they
use is packing agents or something.
It is in the catalogs in the latter 1/3 Panasonic Nichicon and the like.
If I find them again I'll post a link. Not sure if the stuff is as good
or latent as PCBs in older electrolytics or used for cooling in older
power transformers (the kind on Telephone poles and stations.)
Many of the capacitors need to be cleaned... they are contaminated
from the Active Fungicide agents pumped into shipping containers.
Silicon Dioxide used to be used which was okay. But the new stuff
isn't so good for parts, people, and the like. I think the term they
use is packing agents or something.
It is in the catalogs in the latter 1/3 Panasonic Nichicon and the like.
If I find them again I'll post a link. Not sure if the stuff is as good
or latent as PCBs in older electrolytics or used for cooling in older
power transformers (the kind on Telephone poles and stations.)
In the mean time...
Anyone have a listen to Jeff Buckley, Grace?
Columbia
Track 6: Hallelujah
I love this recording.
If you have it, does yours have slight crackles and pops,
or other slight stuff in the highs? At very low levels though.
Just wondering.
OS, question about outputs somewhere on here some guy
stated that for proper current etc for SS amps they should
have 4 pair outputs. And this would be the optimum.
I guess by using more or less powerful output devices
would also change the overall output for the design.
Anyone have a listen to Jeff Buckley, Grace?
Columbia
Track 6: Hallelujah
I love this recording.
If you have it, does yours have slight crackles and pops,
or other slight stuff in the highs? At very low levels though.
Just wondering.
OS, question about outputs somewhere on here some guy
stated that for proper current etc for SS amps they should
have 4 pair outputs. And this would be the optimum.
I guess by using more or less powerful output devices
would also change the overall output for the design.
JW,
Let me know if you need some quality GM Old stock front end parts.
Upper, Lower A arms, links and ends, springs etc.
Some are painted, some are powder coated. Have HD springs too
in red powdercoat.
Two sets of hop stop bars for your rear end either HO or Edlebrock.
NIB, never used.
Mine is 69 BBC SS396.
They are money pits....
Let me know if you need some quality GM Old stock front end parts.
Upper, Lower A arms, links and ends, springs etc.
Some are painted, some are powder coated. Have HD springs too
in red powdercoat.
Two sets of hop stop bars for your rear end either HO or Edlebrock.
NIB, never used.
Mine is 69 BBC SS396.
They are money pits....
Looks like DIY Audio need to create a "Solid State Pub" so the rest of us don't have to wade through all the political manure.
I stopped ! I stay away from society .... keep to my LT and sprint.
I might do the right thing and flag X post #'s , apologize ... and have them
eradicated. OK ?
I got my self distracted from the real deal (below) , just a input stage to go.
Edit - I pay the ISP 110$/ month to upload that pcb graphic in 6 seconds , wait 10 sec for the page to
load on my walmart faulty mouse. 3rd mouse in 2 months. something is quite wrong here - Im paying .. for what??
This form of unfair business practices is cutting into my productivity. And , putting me at a disadvantage ..globally!
OS
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My 2012 ASUS MB still has the round mouse port (PS2). And 7 usb hubs.
Most of my usb laser mouses were e-waste or 10$ walmart 2pacs.
My keyboards are old DELL OEM e-waste , they last forever ... made in
taiwan - hulk SMASH them buttons .... they still work .
OS
I could never get used to a trackball. I've mastered a trackpad. That's one of the few things I don't hate about a laptop. I use only Logitech inputs for my computers too. Other than their Harmony remotes, I've had great experiences with all their products.
While you're at it, Please ask your buddies to add a SS Pub in the stickies like they have in the Pass forum. Then our friends who feel the need to rant about the worlds problems can have a place to gather with other like minded folks. That way we can talk about audio in the audio threads.
AFAIAC, ebay kits are fair game here. They are DIY audio related.
AFAIAC, ebay kits are fair game here. They are DIY audio related.
Just looked up the wired/ usb/ laser Logitech's on Google. 30 -150$ !!!
That 150 is more than I have in this PC (90$ amd MB / 60$ 4core amd CPU).
Are they that much better ? Or are they sourced in a similar fashion and
we pay 400% more for the "logitech" name.
A friend showed me a 100$ logitech back in 99' , it had replaceable
micro-switches (industrial). Made in Japan !
I highly doubt what I see on google is not made (you know where) in
Asia. (JUNK ).
OS
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My buddies ? Who ?
You guys are my buddies
.The mods are quite tolerant , and it seems ... quite
responsive.
No mercy for ebay kits ....
OS
OS,
I've never paid that kind of money for a trackball. I have one that was by another company that I got for cad work but it was terrible in the end. I'm sure the Logitech is made in China, but they do seem to have a pretty good quality record, I have a Logitech keyboard that is at least 10 years old now, I liked it because it actually feels like a type-writer key with some real feel to the keys.
Perhaps we can just send you a nice new mouse or trackball for all your hard work here? What are your preferences?
I've never paid that kind of money for a trackball. I have one that was by another company that I got for cad work but it was terrible in the end. I'm sure the Logitech is made in China, but they do seem to have a pretty good quality record, I have a Logitech keyboard that is at least 10 years old now, I liked it because it actually feels like a type-writer key with some real feel to the keys.
Perhaps we can just send you a nice new mouse or trackball for all your hard work here? What are your preferences?
Logitech is still quite a bit better than the No-Name stuff that's out there. It's still the upgrade for Dell the last time I checked. I can see trackballs being useful. Most of my work is done in Corel Draw where zoom is on the scroll wheel which makes a mouse the obvious choice for me.
You said the "C" word.
My "rant" was real world based. Sprint layout will make the track from your
last position on a fast erronous double click . I JUST BOUGHT the two new
mice 34 days ago ( no money back). walmart must have it timed for electronics !
Now I'm using a 2001 (M$ mouse-below) or even a 1999 as backup. How can
they work after 12 years ?
Any corded /usb/laser that can handle the button clicks (I wear the buttons out quick) would make my sprint clicks so much easier.
The white MS mouse has been my PC repair mouse for 14 years.
That Dell KB is also 15 years old - works perfect , can't they make things
like that anymore ?
OS
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Remember my Walmart World comment? It's worth shopping at a computer store. $25 gets a good mouse that will go for years. $50 get's you an awesome mouse that the damn kids will keep stealing when you aren't looking. I've got a 12 year old Logitech mouse on my desk at work. It's outlasted 6 computers. Every time I think a button is dying I scrape the gunk out of it and go again.You said the "C" word.
My "rant" was real world based. Sprint layout will make the track from your
last position on a fast erronous double click . I JUST BOUGHT the two new
mice 34 days ago ( no money back). walmart must have it timed for electronics !
Now I'm using a 2001 (M$ mouse-below) or even a 1999 as backup. How can
they work after 12 years ?
Any corded /usb/laser that can handle the button clicks (I wear the buttons out quick) would make my sprint clicks so much easier.
The white MS mouse has been my PC repair mouse for 14 years.
That Dell KB is also 15 years old - works perfect , can't they make things
like that anymore ?
OS
I haven't used a mouse since I bought this notebook. That may be one of the reasons I'm struggling so much with Sprint. I have a few mice stashed around. I should probably get one out. A little hard to use sitting here on the couch with the notebook on my lap.
You'll find Sprint a lot easier with a mouse. A lazer mouse works fine on the armrest of a couch if the armrest is wide enough. I do half of my designing with my feet up on the coffee table and a PC hooked to my 56" tv.
JW , they ain't got no puter' store round here ! Wally is the only game in town.
Newegg and ebay mice fail , as well (after 30 days).
Terry , sprint needs at least a 2 button mouse with a center scroll wheel.
copy , paste ,(re-position) and zoom in rapid order are the most common moves.
OS
lounge chair designer ?
So damn comfortable , you do a reversed diode on each board ?
I design with pain and constant irritation.
OS
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Tiger Direct is good. Canada Computers is great up here but I don't know if they ship down there.