50W instead of 100 , per heatsink , will tell you nothing
remember that things aren't linear in thermal system
i accepted the idea of going dual mono, so it would be the one tokin per sink for real
good!
just to remind you , for test you don't need isolator between heatsink and SIT case
just remember that (then) heatsink is on Ub+ potential , take care not to short anything
smidge of thermal goo is all you need
just to remind you , for test you don't need isolator between heatsink and SIT case
just remember that (then) heatsink is on Ub+ potential , take care not to short anything
smidge of thermal goo is all you need
yes, its already mounted and me almost concious : ) (but i´m just afraid to make it with 50k volume pot, there is too small region to trim), i´ll try to get a multiturn 10k today.
another one, when i took off the F6 PCB from heatsink, having been insulated with keraterm, i saw little holes in the pad, obviously not so good idea to use them twice!
another one, when i took off the F6 PCB from heatsink, having been insulated with keraterm, i saw little holes in the pad, obviously not so good idea to use them twice!
I believe you'll find Keratherm in 10x10cm format at Conrad.de
though , that damn thingie is so massive , for 50W of heat , evem 0.1mm thick mica is overkill , with goo of course
I'm regularly using punch method for opening holes in mica , in this case nice** M5 bolt (as punch) and M5 nut (as female ) will do the job , if you find mica sheets
**means proper clean forehead of bolt
edit: just imagine I break this post in 4 separate ones , and everything is easier to grasp

though , that damn thingie is so massive , for 50W of heat , evem 0.1mm thick mica is overkill , with goo of course
I'm regularly using punch method for opening holes in mica , in this case nice** M5 bolt (as punch) and M5 nut (as female ) will do the job , if you find mica sheets
**means proper clean forehead of bolt
edit: just imagine I break this post in 4 separate ones , and everything is easier to grasp

edit: just imagine I break this post in 4 separate ones , and everything is easier to grasp
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just finished the "conrad" part, feel exhausted, 'nough for today 🙂
happythanx!
i measured the first 🙂 at Ugs -2.4V it comes up to 2A (btw, does Amperemeter has any kind of direction red/black cable😕? never measured Ampere : ))
I let it run for just two minutes or so, but could hardly feel any warming of the big Tokin.
I let it run for just two minutes or so, but could hardly feel any warming of the big Tokin.
red probe on PSU + , black downstream
irrelevant , just ignore minus prefix on reading if you turned probes
what was PSU voltage ?
irrelevant , just ignore minus prefix on reading if you turned probes
what was PSU voltage ?
yup
pretty much anything up to -3V7 ...... and even more ...... say -4V2 , if you select P channel mosfet , to have -4V5
say that 300mv is smallest voltage window for opto bjt , with which I would have nice sleep
pretty much anything up to -3V7 ...... and even more ...... say -4V2 , if you select P channel mosfet , to have -4V5
say that 300mv is smallest voltage window for opto bjt , with which I would have nice sleep
oki, nice, i thought of voltage window could be too big either. Also i was curious about consistency, because the 2 pucks looked a little different concerning the print and other details..
(had a memo on the table, "BATTERY ON!" 🙂
(had a memo on the table, "BATTERY ON!" 🙂
@noelectrix
Could you snap a picture of the Tokins? Not sure what the recommended image host is, i used tinypic.
Could you snap a picture of the Tokins? Not sure what the recommended image host is, i used tinypic.
i´m sorry, back home from studio were the tokins are, sitting happily at home eating spaghetti, will post pics soon.
camera in studio also, me not havin smartphone, but this wasn't bad either : )
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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