They are part of the LC output filter. The shunt high frequencies (remnants of the square wave carrier) to ground.
Thanks Perry for your explanation it's verry nice of your part
but do you think i can replace it with better caps to increase performance "for a better sound" of the amp? or it is not usefull?
but do you think i can replace it with better caps to increase performance "for a better sound" of the amp? or it is not usefull?
There's no reason to replace them unless they're defective.
There's no part that's in good working order that you can replace and make an audible difference in the sound quality.
There's no part that's in good working order that you can replace and make an audible difference in the sound quality.
Hello
ok i understand
for the moment i haven't receive the schematics....
I hope i'll receive it tomorrow....
ok i understand
for the moment i haven't receive the schematics....
I hope i'll receive it tomorrow....
Do you have the straight version of the driver board like in the SinusLive or the rectangular driver board with two rows of pins like in the Massive?
That's a photo that I took for the DVD I sell. I don't know of any service manual for the massive amps.
I never thought of trying to repair them but from the photo it looks like you have. I usally remove r70 and r72 330ohms thats below the opti to verify output. But at this point I'm going through too many driver cards and I'm suspecting some may be repairable. Any common failure conditions with these card you know of off the top of your head?
I have the dvd rom that you sell but that photo isn't included in mine. Am I outdated and/or how can I be up dated?
I don't repair many of these amps (I HATE big amps) so I don't see many dead driver boards. There are two different versions (from what I've been told). Some are easy to get into and some are not. If they are not completely filled with potting compound, the ones like the one in the photo are likely repairable. I don't know about the others. It took a while to determine what the ICs were on this board. I don't know if the other board has defaced ICs like this one did.
Hello
I think sinuslive don't send me the schematic circuit fo my amp 🙁
but there is a strange things on that amp, when i put my multimeter on the positive and negative rail of the power supply, i have a long bip like continuity 😕 and this stop because the value of the resistance grow-up.
it is very strange because with other amplifier there isn't this problem 😕
maybe the pop noise is from this problem ??
I think sinuslive don't send me the schematic circuit fo my amp 🙁
but there is a strange things on that amp, when i put my multimeter on the positive and negative rail of the power supply, i have a long bip like continuity 😕 and this stop because the value of the resistance grow-up.
it is very strange because with other amplifier there isn't this problem 😕
maybe the pop noise is from this problem ??
Hello 🙂
Perry i have a question about 2 condensators C56 and C53 who are in parallel with C52 C54 C55 C57 C58 C59
normaly they are 2200µF 25V but i would like to replace them "C56 and C53" with other who have this capacity: 4700µ 16V
can you tell me if it's possible please?
I think yes because there are on the 12volts from the battery of the car?
thanks for confirm me that please 🙂
Perry i have a question about 2 condensators C56 and C53 who are in parallel with C52 C54 C55 C57 C58 C59
normaly they are 2200µF 25V but i would like to replace them "C56 and C53" with other who have this capacity: 4700µ 16V
can you tell me if it's possible please?
I think yes because there are on the 12volts from the battery of the car?
thanks for confirm me that please 🙂
I wouldn't replace them. The capacitors need to be matched so they share the load evenly. The two 4700uf caps are likely to take more of the load and are more likely to fail prematurely. This would increase the stress on the other capacitors and could cause the power supply to fail (possibly causing significant damage).
Hello Perry
Thanks 🙂
but the two condensators are dead 🙁 and i have no other condensator of 2200µF 25V, i just have 2 condensators of 1000µF 25V but there are not good?
is it possible to use the amp without C56 and C53? or replace other caps with all 4700µF 16V?
i'm also worry about the 16V value for the condensators, do you think it can be ok because there is only the voltage of the battery, so 14,4 volts with engine start
Thanks
Thanks 🙂
but the two condensators are dead 🙁 and i have no other condensator of 2200µF 25V, i just have 2 condensators of 1000µF 25V but there are not good?
is it possible to use the amp without C56 and C53? or replace other caps with all 4700µF 16V?
i'm also worry about the 16V value for the condensators, do you think it can be ok because there is only the voltage of the battery, so 14,4 volts with engine start
Thanks
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How are the capacitors 'dead'?
It's possible to run it without the two 2200uF or to use the two 4700uF but it's not a proper repair and may lead to the failure of the power supply. The reliability depends on how hard the amp is driven.
The 25v capacitors are likely used instead of 16v capacitors because they have lower ESR and will therefore not overheat as much as 16v capacitors if the amp is abused. It's also possible that they used them to allow the amp to operate at 18v for competition. The 16v caps may be OK if they're high quality and the amp is to be run from a standard charging system but it's still not good to have the caps mixed. You could replace all of the capacitors with 16v but if you're going to replace all of the capacitors, I'd suggest 25v (or higher) low impedance capacitors rated for 105° C.
It's possible to run it without the two 2200uF or to use the two 4700uF but it's not a proper repair and may lead to the failure of the power supply. The reliability depends on how hard the amp is driven.
The 25v capacitors are likely used instead of 16v capacitors because they have lower ESR and will therefore not overheat as much as 16v capacitors if the amp is abused. It's also possible that they used them to allow the amp to operate at 18v for competition. The 16v caps may be OK if they're high quality and the amp is to be run from a standard charging system but it's still not good to have the caps mixed. You could replace all of the capacitors with 16v but if you're going to replace all of the capacitors, I'd suggest 25v (or higher) low impedance capacitors rated for 105° C.
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