Hello Perry
Thanks 🙂
the capacitors are dead because they sank 🙁
the new condensators of 4700µF is quality low esr 🙂
but i won't use the 2 condensators 4700µF and i will buy elna or blackgate condensators to replace all 2200µF in 25V and put 10000µF for all condensators in low esr
do you think it's a good idea to upgrade this cheap amp?
Thanks 🙂
Thanks 🙂
the capacitors are dead because they sank 🙁
the new condensators of 4700µF is quality low esr 🙂
but i won't use the 2 condensators 4700µF and i will buy elna or blackgate condensators to replace all 2200µF in 25V and put 10000µF for all condensators in low esr
do you think it's a good idea to upgrade this cheap amp?
Thanks 🙂
you are wasting way too much time on this amp, in this time you would earn money for used or new
Hello luka 🙂
Yes i think you are right but i haven't enough money to buy a good amp, for my subwoofer i need an amplifer that cost me minimum 500 euros 🙁 because i don't want cheap amp like the sinuslive 🙄
and thoses condensators cost me 5 euros because i know a good website in Germany 🙂
for the moment i have replaced 10 condensators on this amp with better and for 5 euros, i think it's a good deal if it works after that 🙂
Yes i think you are right but i haven't enough money to buy a good amp, for my subwoofer i need an amplifer that cost me minimum 500 euros 🙁 because i don't want cheap amp like the sinuslive 🙄

and thoses condensators cost me 5 euros because i know a good website in Germany 🙂
for the moment i have replaced 10 condensators on this amp with better and for 5 euros, i think it's a good deal if it works after that 🙂
yes i'll do that or i think i'll give it to my brother or keep it for my home cinema..
otherwise have you got brands to advice me please ?
i search sound quality with a lot of power and detailed bass 🙂
thanks 🙂
otherwise have you got brands to advice me please ?
i search sound quality with a lot of power and detailed bass 🙂
thanks 🙂
car audio shows, listen to cars, get on your local forums, read what they say about amp, see if it is true, look at all the amp you can get, get price on them, look for used amps if they were used like they should be, you could get some pretty good amp, but until you know what you want, no one can help you... SQ in sub amps is really not that importat, you play music below 100Hz, as long as you don't have amp as "bad" as SLA, you will be ok with it
héhé 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
problem resolved
I have changed the condensators, the new are surrounded in red
the list of condensators changed: 5x10µ 25V whith 5x10µ100V low rds on
4X22µF250V with new 4x22µ 350V rubicon low rds on
4x2200µF 80V with new 2x10000µF 80V low rds-on blackgate
1x100µF 25V with new on in low rds on
"C51 cms" replaced by mkt "same value"that are in parallele of the 25v2200µF
for the test i use a 10 amp fuse and all is ok the pop noise disappear 🙂 i just here a tiny little things and now the voltage at the terminal speaker when i hear the little noise is 53.3mv before i change condensators it was 2.83vdc 😱
Perry can you confirm me that i have found the problem please?
thanks 🙂
problem resolved
I have changed the condensators, the new are surrounded in red
the list of condensators changed: 5x10µ 25V whith 5x10µ100V low rds on
4X22µF250V with new 4x22µ 350V rubicon low rds on
4x2200µF 80V with new 2x10000µF 80V low rds-on blackgate
1x100µF 25V with new on in low rds on
"C51 cms" replaced by mkt "same value"that are in parallele of the 25v2200µF
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
for the test i use a 10 amp fuse and all is ok the pop noise disappear 🙂 i just here a tiny little things and now the voltage at the terminal speaker when i hear the little noise is 53.3mv before i change condensators it was 2.83vdc 😱
Perry can you confirm me that i have found the problem please?
thanks 🙂
other things i have use the amp for 5 minutes with music and the bass are more deep than before?? and there is more output power...
but...i have the self "who is near the 4 little caps of 350V" comes hot a little more than before, is it normal? can i use the amp or not?
the temperature in my home is 26°C when i have tested the amp with a 4 ohms speaker and i use a power supply smps of 13.8vdc 12A continuous
Thanks for confirm me if i can put the amp in my car whitout risk?
but...i have the self "who is near the 4 little caps of 350V" comes hot a little more than before, is it normal? can i use the amp or not?
the temperature in my home is 26°C when i have tested the amp with a 4 ohms speaker and i use a power supply smps of 13.8vdc 12A continuous
Thanks for confirm me if i can put the amp in my car whitout risk?
Hello
I have mesured a temperature of 55.5°C about 131.9 degree Fahrenheit for the core surrounded in red and i can smell the hot 😕
can someone tell me what do that please?
Thanks 🙂
I have mesured a temperature of 55.5°C about 131.9 degree Fahrenheit for the core surrounded in red and i can smell the hot 😕
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
can someone tell me what do that please?
Thanks 🙂
They use inexpensive cores in these amps. The cores have significant loss and operate at elevated temperatures normally. They will heat up with the amp at idle (no audio). In a Massive amp (very similar), the original inductors ran at 135°F. I had some replacements made with better cores and they ran at 95°F. If the inductor isn't shorted, it can operate at the elevated temperatures and won't cause any problems.
Thanks perry
but the probem appear after i replaced the condensators???
before it was hot but not as much now
is it normal that the amp works better now and the pop noise disappear??
Can you explain me that please?
and the frequency are much low than before
and can i replace the core with a better ? if yes how can i do that?
Thanks a lot Perry
but the probem appear after i replaced the condensators???
before it was hot but not as much now
is it normal that the amp works better now and the pop noise disappear??
Can you explain me that please?
and the frequency are much low than before
and can i replace the core with a better ? if yes how can i do that?
Thanks a lot Perry
but the probem appear after i replaced the condensators???
before it was hot but not as much now
**** The capacitors on the primary side of the power supply aren't likely to affect the temperature of the output filter. How many did you replace?
is it normal that the amp works better now and the pop noise disappear??
Can you explain me that please?
**** I can't explain why the pop was eliminated but it seems to be inconsistent because it has been better/worse several times.
and the frequency are much low than before
**** The frequency of what?
and can i replace the core with a better ? if yes how can i do that?
**** Yes but it's not necessary unless the original one fails. The replacement inductors used two stacked CM330125 molypermalloy cores with 23 turns of 12g wire.
Molypermalloy (MPP) Toroidal Cores for Output Choke and Inductors : CWS ByteMark, largest supplier of toroids, ferrite cores, iron powder cores, MPP cores and RF cores
before it was hot but not as much now
**** The capacitors on the primary side of the power supply aren't likely to affect the temperature of the output filter. How many did you replace?
is it normal that the amp works better now and the pop noise disappear??
Can you explain me that please?
**** I can't explain why the pop was eliminated but it seems to be inconsistent because it has been better/worse several times.
and the frequency are much low than before
**** The frequency of what?
and can i replace the core with a better ? if yes how can i do that?
**** Yes but it's not necessary unless the original one fails. The replacement inductors used two stacked CM330125 molypermalloy cores with 23 turns of 12g wire.
Molypermalloy (MPP) Toroidal Cores for Output Choke and Inductors : CWS ByteMark, largest supplier of toroids, ferrite cores, iron powder cores, MPP cores and RF cores
no i haven't replace condensators à primary but i have replaced four condensator near the core who are 22µF 250V with new in 22µF 350V "rubicon is the manufacture of the new condensators)
and i also replace 4 condensators of 2200µF 80v with 2 condensators of 10000µF 80V blackgate
for the frequency i talk about the lowpass filter, i can hear real and deep bass not the bad bass that i have before replace old condensators.
Thanks for the link Perry i'll try to find that product in france 🙂
and i also replace 4 condensators of 2200µF 80v with 2 condensators of 10000µF 80V blackgate
for the frequency i talk about the lowpass filter, i can hear real and deep bass not the bad bass that i have before replace old condensators.
Thanks for the link Perry i'll try to find that product in france 🙂
now i have 149.9°F after 10 minutes whith music at low level 😕
and this is with the original caps of 2200µF 80 and i keep the other 22µF 350 because the orginal leaks 🙁
it is very hot when i touch it and i'm worry about that😕
it's more hot with 4 original condensators of 2200µF 80V than the other 2 of 10000µF 80V
the brand for this new condensators of 10000µF isn't not blackgate but Nippon Chemi-Con
you can find this caps here
Alimentations - Module d'alimentation pour amplificateur 6x10000uF/80V
do you think there is a risk to take fire if i use the amp in continuous ?
and if the core fail do you think there is a risk to blow my subwoofer or not?
Thanks a lot for your help Perry 🙂
ps:sorry for all these stupid questions "and my poor english" 😱 but i'm just fanatics of electronics and i would like to understand how it's work🙂
and this is with the original caps of 2200µF 80 and i keep the other 22µF 350 because the orginal leaks 🙁
it is very hot when i touch it and i'm worry about that😕
it's more hot with 4 original condensators of 2200µF 80V than the other 2 of 10000µF 80V
the brand for this new condensators of 10000µF isn't not blackgate but Nippon Chemi-Con
you can find this caps here
Alimentations - Module d'alimentation pour amplificateur 6x10000uF/80V
do you think there is a risk to take fire if i use the amp in continuous ?
and if the core fail do you think there is a risk to blow my subwoofer or not?
Thanks a lot for your help Perry 🙂
ps:sorry for all these stupid questions "and my poor english" 😱 but i'm just fanatics of electronics and i would like to understand how it's work🙂
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The temperature was taken in a cool environment (probably no more than 70°F) with no audio. If the amp was in a warmer environment and was producing audio, you should expect it to be warmer.
I would never tell you that there is no risk. If virtually any part fails, there is a risk of blowing the speakers.
I would never tell you that there is no risk. If virtually any part fails, there is a risk of blowing the speakers.
Hello Perry
Thanks 🙂
Normaly i will buy a scope and i hope it will be possible to repair it.
but for security for my subwoofer and my car, i will put a good amplifier and not a cheap amp like sinuslive
Thanks 🙂
Normaly i will buy a scope and i hope it will be possible to repair it.
but for security for my subwoofer and my car, i will put a good amplifier and not a cheap amp like sinuslive

Hello Luka 🙂
Thanks so what fuse i can use for this amp please?
I have a 100A fuse external of the amp, can i use that? or i must put an other fuse?
this is the fuse who is delivered with the amp, it's a fuse that normaly goes near the battery of the car 😕
a link where you can see the external fuse for the amplifier
Amplificateur Sinus Live SL-A1500 sur CONRAD, AutoHiFi étage de sortie, Amplificateurs auto
Thanks for your help 🙂
Thanks so what fuse i can use for this amp please?
I have a 100A fuse external of the amp, can i use that? or i must put an other fuse?
this is the fuse who is delivered with the amp, it's a fuse that normaly goes near the battery of the car 😕
a link where you can see the external fuse for the amplifier
Amplificateur Sinus Live SL-A1500 sur CONRAD, AutoHiFi étage de sortie, Amplificateurs auto
Thanks for your help 🙂
you can use 100A, don't even need that much, just make sure its ANL, they are more safe then glass ones, mini anl ok too
If you have that fuse, use it... place it 30cm max away from + terminal of the battery
If you have that fuse, use it... place it 30cm max away from + terminal of the battery
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