powering the stadium to what levels though? I mix pretty bass heavy. 😉This has left me wondering thus, if jbell is powering a stadium with 4 of the big cabs, I'd expect the small cabs to do better.
i reckon 8 ss15 (pack space of 4 big cabs) would be a lot of bang!
"I'd expect the small cabs to do better. "
For that application?
Probably.
But you live and learn and the original is installed and working, and for the next installation you can use what you learned.
Thanks djk. It is true that we learn from past experiences. Right now, I have 6 Nos. of double 15s ported cabs with 3015LF. With each cab driven hard by a single channel of QSC 4050HD, I am able to cover a crowd of over 2000, for both live and recorded music and both indoors and outdoors. I am looking for something better than this. Maybe your PPSL or 12Pi may be the answer, ofcourse, amps also needing to be replaced with much higher powered ones.
OK
Seems like all the drawings in here are different. I have already cut a sheet via the cut sheet. Doesn't seem to line up to the layout drawing.
Post a corrected finalized drawing?
FlipC,
I took all my dimension right from the pdf file. It's all good. Isn't the cut sheet just a rough cut guide? I'm guessing here.
see: singlesheet_2_2010_aug18_dwg.pdf
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Thanks djk. It is true that we learn from past experiences. Right now, I have 6 Nos. of double 15s ported cabs with 3015LF. With each cab driven hard by a single channel of QSC 4050HD, I am able to cover a crowd of over 2000, for both live and recorded music and both indoors and outdoors. I am looking for something better than this. Maybe your PPSL or 12Pi may be the answer, ofcourse, amps also needing to be replaced with much higher powered ones.
I know I have personally learned much since my original attempt at designing TH cabinets.
A 'cheap' suggestion for you samuel. Build a pair of the ss15 cabinets, and transplant a couple of your existing 3015lf's in them. Then do an A/B comparison between one of your dual ported cabinets vs a pair of the single driver loaded ss15's. Walk around in front, side, behind them while they are wound up to 'normal' levels... take an spl meter and do some simple tests outdoor and see what you see.
It only costs you two sheets of plywood to see if a tapped horn type cabinet will get you to your goal vs your current ported cabinets.
I noticed the notes on TB's PDF.
That the cuts were trimmed. Will remeasure using the MM version.
And Samuel -
I'm with JBell. Throw 2 of these cabients together and compare. I would be astounded if you DONT get better performance from the SS15. Especially outdoors. TH's give you the clean quick attack of a reflex with the sensitivity of a horn. That means you probably wouldn't have to replace your amplifiers.
I am currently building my first.
After I get it together and how I want it. (will mod for handles) I will be building a total of 12. 2 stacks of 6 at 5.5'x6'. I already have a bigger version (Apache 15Mk2) But space & weight savings of the SS15 make up for the bit of loss of low end frequency.
That the cuts were trimmed. Will remeasure using the MM version.
And Samuel -
I'm with JBell. Throw 2 of these cabients together and compare. I would be astounded if you DONT get better performance from the SS15. Especially outdoors. TH's give you the clean quick attack of a reflex with the sensitivity of a horn. That means you probably wouldn't have to replace your amplifiers.
I am currently building my first.
After I get it together and how I want it. (will mod for handles) I will be building a total of 12. 2 stacks of 6 at 5.5'x6'. I already have a bigger version (Apache 15Mk2) But space & weight savings of the SS15 make up for the bit of loss of low end frequency.
So the cut list drawing is indeed incorrect.
Got to go get some more wood now.
cut sheet should be right, how thick of a blade did you use?
The easiest way to assemble this is to use the 'swinging gate method'
Glue the front board to the first side.
line up the baffle board, and mark so that you are about 1/4" longer from the end of that board to the bottom vs the back. draw both sides, predrill, glue, screw in place.
Then do the same thing for the board that goes up to the back, mark where it is about 1/8" or so longer to the back vs the top. Repeat installation step for that board.
Then you can do the board directly above the baffle, and the the vertical board connecting to it. (they are the most critical to get dimensions accurate) Then it is easy to put on the top, and place the board that connects to the top. add back and bottom and you are done. Dry fit the 2nd side, draw all of the interior panels you can reach. remove 2nd side, complete marks for all of the interior panels so you can predrill, glue and screw in place. This assures you never miss a panel with a screw.
I can easily do a quad set in a day this way.
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Thanks FlipC and jbell for your responses. I too think, there's nothing like a direct comparison. So I'll make some sawdust and report back.
Samuel,Thanks FlipC and jbell for your responses. I too think, there's nothing like a direct comparison. So I'll make some sawdust and report back.
Excellent choice, looking forward to your reports.
Art
After discussing the plan to go ahead with an experimental build of the SS-TH15, I was going through the whole thread and noticed a few thought experiments by jbell and Don to get the box to go a little lower (albeit sacrificing a little spl). Some of these are not simmed in HR. I am attaching these drawings below to find out because I would like to have an FR below 40Hz. If the build is successful, I plan on making 12 of these boxes as I already have 12 drivers in double 15 cabs.
Attachments
You could probably recycle your existing bass reflex cabinets into tapped horns.After discussing the plan to go ahead with an experimental build of the SS-TH15, I was going through the whole thread and noticed a few thought experiments by jbell and Don to get the box to go a little lower (albeit sacrificing a little spl). Some of these are not simmed in HR. I am attaching these drawings below to find out because I would like to have an FR below 40Hz. If the build is successful, I plan on making 12 of these boxes as I already have 12 drivers in double 15 cabs.
The "cheap" portion of this made me wonder how the Peavey Low Rider 15 would work in the SS15, it is a very good speaker and may be found for less $$ than the 3015LF.I know I have personally learned much since my original attempt at designing TH cabinets.
A 'cheap' suggestion for you samuel. Build a pair of the ss15 cabinets, and transplant a couple of your existing 3015lf's in them. Then do an A/B comparison between one of your dual ported cabinets vs a pair of the single driver loaded ss15's. Walk around in front, side, behind them while they are wound up to 'normal' levels... take an spl meter and do some simple tests outdoor and see what you see.
It only costs you two sheets of plywood to see if a tapped horn type cabinet will get you to your goal vs your current ported cabinets.
Using the same TH model, it sims the same in the low end (Xmax is the same for both speakers), needs a bit more power to be as loud (but is rated for the extra power). It has a few different bumps in the upper end. It weighs more too, a disadvantage when hauling, but perhaps a slight thermal advantage as there is more mass to heat up.
I know from having heard the Low Riders in tapped horns they do perform quite well. The 4015LF still appears to be a slightly better choice, other than the cost.
One very nice feature of the Low Rider is a replaceable basket/cone/vc assembly, you can do a "recone" in a matter of minutes with just a wrench. The basket costs little more than most recone kits, which require a fair amount of skill to install, not to mention the time to remove and clean up a used basket.
The Hornresp script with the Peavey Low Rider 15 Specs is attached.
The Low Rider 18 works OK in the SS15 sim too, with a couple dB more level at 60 Hz, and a couple dB less at 100 Hz, but no improvement down low.
Attachments
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A dozen 3015LF are $104 each from martinsoundpro.com, the 4015 about $139, the Peavey is more$ from what I can see.
I'm watching this too...
If this gives a lower cutoff frequency, but still better output per cubic foot than the stadium horns, I'll be making lots of sawdust!
Regards, Ben
If this gives a lower cutoff frequency, but still better output per cubic foot than the stadium horns, I'll be making lots of sawdust!
Regards, Ben
Any comments on post #430? Thanks.
samuel:
Of the 4 pics you linked to, only the last one is of interest to me. I haven't tried it yet (waiting for warmer weather) but it should play just a bit lower and at about the same spl. It's 1" shorter at 29" and you have to splice one panel out of 2 boards to get the entire thing out of a single sheet. An additional downside to that you need to cut braces out of scrap material, so it's not truly a 'singlesheet' design anymore. Don't even try the cube, while it's flatter to 40hz, it's overall spl is VERY low compared to the ss15.
I really haven't played around with how to maximize 40hz in this size cabinet, while abandoning the singlesheet concept.
New challenge?
I'm guessing the next challenge will be:
Maximum bass out of a fixed volume enclosure, wood be damned! (e.g. 8 cubic feet)
🙂
Can't say how often I've read these threads. The interest in the SS15 plan is increasing. Over at speakerplans.com someone is building the SS15, but no results reported yet.
I'm guessing the next challenge will be:
Maximum bass out of a fixed volume enclosure, wood be damned! (e.g. 8 cubic feet)
🙂
Can't say how often I've read these threads. The interest in the SS15 plan is increasing. Over at speakerplans.com someone is building the SS15, but no results reported yet.
I did not get much (any) interest in a the competition suggestion for a one and a half sheet design that could go lower and/or louder.
Is anybody up for that?
A Mars Bar for the winner if Customs allow it through.
Is anybody up for that?
A Mars Bar for the winner if Customs allow it through.
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